rgrigsby Posted March 10, 2005 Share Posted March 10, 2005 Just wondering what oil/coolant is recommended for use with a 2.3l Duratec, I've been running Mobil 1 Motorsport (15/50 I think) and Comma Coldstream on my Xflow are they OK or should I be using something different? Rob G www.SpeedySeven.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dobuy Posted March 10, 2005 Share Posted March 10, 2005 Sounds OK to me Rob, I am using Mobil 1 in mine as well, as its the easiest to get out here in Dubai. I asked about using Mobil 1 last year to Fordy, who was involved with the original oil development for the Duratec. His response was that Mobil 1 was absolutely fine to use in the Duratec. Duratec Se7en SV, built in Dubai, pics here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgrigsby Posted March 10, 2005 Author Share Posted March 10, 2005 Cool, lucky really as I have 3 pots in the garage! Rob G www.SpeedySeven.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted March 10, 2005 Share Posted March 10, 2005 Reading up on Oilman's posts, it seems the 15/50 is most appropriate for our climate and mode of use. Makes perfect sense really. Also, I've been reading up on PC's old posts regarding coolant. I ran out of the Rover 4 year stuff I bought when V7 was new and wanted something equivalent. Propylene Glycol (as opposed to Ethylene Glycol) is the good stuff, and preferably in the premixed form to eliminate mixing in crappy water from Severn Trent. Coldstream is the coolant of choice, not as widely available as it once was but I found some in a Wilkinson's hardware store (in 1 litre containers). I bought all of them in stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgrigsby Posted March 10, 2005 Author Share Posted March 10, 2005 Also good news as there is a local stockist just around the corner from me, time to go and buy some coolant. cheers Nig Rob G www.SpeedySeven.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiF Posted March 10, 2005 Share Posted March 10, 2005 Can't disagree with the oil 😬 Do find the Propylene Glycol as all the properties are far better from all the info I gathered and Peter C found. The problem is finding it . CC version is not PG any more and the Comma agents hardly ever have it. It is around just hard to find. Richard in France Flying fast in my very bright yellow 226bhp Duratec 7, with internal kevlar/carbon panels and pushrod suspension 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Walker Posted March 10, 2005 Share Posted March 10, 2005 Halfords 4 year stuff is the same as Comma Cold Stream, made from the same 3m product "triguard". Edited by - Rob Walker on 11 Mar 2005 08:41:30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ELV15 Posted March 10, 2005 Share Posted March 10, 2005 Well, I believe the answer is: it depends. How hard are you running the engine? What are the temperatures you will be operating in? Here in California I have been advised the following: * For normal street use a good quality 10-30 or 10-40 is ok. * For track days get the best quality syntheic you can (redline or amsoil) in a 20-50. Change the oil when you get back from the trackday. Under no circumstances should you use 5-20 (things _will_ break). ☹️ Mobile1 is fine for street use, but don't trust it on a track. As far as coolant goes, I am using Dex-cool orange coolant. It uses OAT (organic acid technology) that is good for cooling systems with aluminum components. ELV15 - Tom in California - 200hp duratec powered 2003 Clubsport Build pics here: here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7sRWild Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 Under no circumstances should you use 5-20 (things _will_ break). Tom, So, what broke? And w/ what oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 15w-50 or 10w-50 are the best options. Select quality based on use. The harder you use it the better the oil needs to be. Cheers Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bare Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 HONDA brand Coolant has emerged as one of the Best currently available.. something about no silcates /deposits and water pump life.. lots research avialable if one has little else to do :-).. Also carries some credibility, coming from the most prolific maker of alloy vehicle engines onna Planet... 3 million in '04 alone ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordy Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 these are factory filled in the US with a 5W-20 and a 5W-30 in Europe. Remember they are durability tested to extremes with these oils. But I guess most duratecs in Caterhams are running higher than stock power. I'd run a duratec on a good quality semi-synthetic ACEA A3 5W-40 myself. I think 50 grade oils are a bit too thick ( though probably would do no harm in a duratec) and they will lose you a bit of power. The decision to use Mobil 1 or not is a bit like the decision between a Mondeo and a 3 series Bimmer. They both do the same job, but somehow one of them makes you feel chipper. In every day use though one could be regarded as over egging the pudding somewhat for the job you require of it. Oil is no different. But if you must spend that bit extra to feel good about yourself, you wouldn't go wrong with any of the top tier brands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiF Posted March 13, 2005 Share Posted March 13, 2005 Just a thought If you are running the engine in you should not use Mobile 1 straight away??????? Richard in France Flying fast in my very bright yellow 226bhp Duratec 7, with internal kevlar/carbon panels and pushrod suspension 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted March 13, 2005 Share Posted March 13, 2005 Simply because synthetics extend the running in process. Mineral or semi-synthetic (petroleum based) are best for running-in. Cheers Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgrigsby Posted March 13, 2005 Author Share Posted March 13, 2005 Yup that's the plan, cheers for all the advice guys. Looks like I should be getting the engine next week hopefully so it should be in the car soon! Rob G www.SpeedySeven.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted March 14, 2005 Share Posted March 14, 2005 Halfords 4 year stuff is the same as Comma Cold Stream, made from the same 3m product "triguard". I looked at the Halfrauds stuff this week - due to concerns about coolant in my oil (imagined or not) - their current stuff is EG based and is therefore nasty. On a different note, someone (Simon Reader) pointed me at some 10W50 'fully synth' (yeah, ok... ) oil branded 'Morris' - the Readers use it in their race 7s. Might give that a go when PSC switches from running-in mineral-oil to synth. Project Scope-Creep is underway... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted March 14, 2005 Share Posted March 14, 2005 Or Silkolene PRO S 10w-50 ester based synthetic race oil. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/TechSpecs/PRO%20S%20-%204%20Wheel.pdf This is an excellent shear stable oil. Cheers Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ELV15 Posted March 14, 2005 Share Posted March 14, 2005 7sRWild, I have not broken mine...yet 😬. I have heard of other folks having failures, but all of my information comes second hand. The person I spoke to about oil weights/brands is a Duratec builder in the US. I suspect the failures are from 2.3L rod bearings, which are a weak point. I have a 2.0L and was told that the 2.0L bearings are fine...this bloke said they are fine to 8k! He also mentioned that the Duratec has one of the best oiling systems of _any_ engine and that a dry sump is not necessary... However, keep an eye on the oil pressure. While running track days, he has seen oil pressure degrade as the oil breaks down and this is how he came to his conclusions about the various viscosities and brands of oil. Look for about 90psi at 8000 rpms. Anything over 30psi is ok for idle. ELV15 - Tom in California - 200hp duratec powered 2003 Clubsport Build pics here: here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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