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Engine out proceedure


Youngbutnotslow

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Any tips about removing the engine?

Is it better to remove with the G/box attached or split and leave the G/box in place? Mine is a race chassis so have the fixed diagonals in the engine bay.

Where do you attach the lifting strops? I no longer have the redundant alloy Rover engine front mounting or the rear one. Ive seen engines drop if they are slung under the sump!

Are there any other considerations?

 

 

Matt *cool* - see my car

here

Son of Oldbutnotslow

here

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Matt, everyone has their prefered method...

 

For me, I'd leave the gearbox behind, complete with its oil. Then what you are moving is what you want to work on and it smaller and lighter to handle.

 

As to what to lift the engine with... baling string!. I plait a few lengths of it together, tie a knot and away you go. If you need to put an angle on the lift, simply add an additional band of baling string and tighten to get the required angle.

 

When you are finished, cut it off and bin it - cheap as chips and works every time!

 

JH

Deliveries by Saffron, *thumbup* the yellow 222bhp Sausage delivery machine

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I've been involved in both ways of moving engines recently - gearbox with engine and without.

 

Initial impressions have been that gearbox with the engine gives you some hassle getting the prop back in - and gearbox without can give you hassle lining the splines and spigot-bearing up...

 

Both methods can cause damage - the prop can damage the rear seal on the gbox - and the spigot-bearing can be damaged the other way.

 

For cleanliness and additional manouevering ability, I lean towards engine-only.

 

Project Scope-Creep is underway...

 

Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻

 

Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com


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Every car should contain a few metres of baler band for the inevitable day when the exhaust falls off. It saves grovelling around in the hedge bottom in the pouring rain trying to find some ☹️ as I once had to do for a stricken handbrake cable. Happily I was in Lincolnshire, where you are never too far from a bit of baler band. *smile* It might have been another story in Epsom...
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Putting my engine in last night was fine last night (apart from my hoist dropping three links when it suited *eek*) and we used some nylon rope around the inlet manifold and alternator bracket, so at diagonals around the engine front to back. It then required no twisting or turning...

 

Chris.

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Baling twine is such an extraordinary substance, it is not of this planet. Out in the cundry you can see it in the hedges where it lands as it comes in from outer space. Some enrepreneurs then gather it up and sell it to the punters.

 

Edited by - susser on 5 Mar 2005 18:48:06

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I used to handle baler twine by the mile, quite literally, for use with 3 Heston 4900 balers, baling over 20,000 bales (10,000 tons) of straw each season.

This stuff is the high strength/high tension stuff, you could pull a car with it.

 

A quick back of the keyboard calculation:

 

Each bale is 4ft square by 8ft long and has 6 strands, therefore roughly 25ft per strand (remember knots), giving 150 ft per bale.

A mile is 5280 ft and therefore you get 35.2 bales to the mile of twine.

 

So, 20,000 bales equates to 568 miles 320 yards

 

Anyone want to buy some off cuts *tongue* *tongue* *tongue* 😬 😬

 

Keep off the straight and narrow *tongue* 😬

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Nifty. Like I said. It could not be of this planet. I've got a bit of metorite wot I found on a beach. It's got some baling twine embedded in it. Proves it to me. Mind you, it does look like a bit of baling twine embedded in a bit of concrete to the untrained eye. *tongue*
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