Gary-Cornwall Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 Engine's out (XE) at the mo' so thinking about shedding a few pounds. Has anyone got experience/advice on this route? I understand there's the option of exchange and lightened or replacement with steel from reading previous posts via search. SBD quote a little over £400 for a full clutch/flywheel upgrade. Can I use the existing clutch and centre plate (standard) with a lightened steel flywheel or do I need all the kit? What sort of response changes can I expect and is it worth the dosh? Thanks Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambo Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 I went SBD light steel flywheel, needed to fit a super clutch 7.5" clutch. with a set of bolts clutch and flywheel, cost came to circa £800.00 I'll dig out the invoice if you want exact price. new Assembly cut weight from 16kg's down to8kgs 😬 also the mass is all closer to the middle ,so less rotational inertia. engine spins up a lot quicker, also helps locking rears up on down change if you are too lazey to heel and toe. Clutch is very sharp though. If i was only doing road work, I probably wouldn't bother, it does hit the torque a bit. Also i had to go to a hydralic clutch ,as the clutch fork fouled the clutch cover. that was another couple of hundred quid for master cylinder and release bearing and mount, and hoses, and bleed tee and and and. She's finally Home!!!!!!!!! Edited by - Gambo on 8 Feb 2005 22:09:07 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 Mine is a standard pie disk lightened and weighs 5.5 kg (flywheel only). The original weighs 7.7kg. The clutch cover and plate weigh 5 kg so I have 10.5 kg total and the standard clutch. It is noticeable on spin up but driveablilty is the pretty much the same as the standard one. Don't expect a 'vivv vivv' rpm rise when you blip the throttle though. Someone (Steve Mell) once told me that this set up was lighter or the same as the 1st stage racing clutch. Is it true Steve? Cost £70 2nd hand You can get your flywheel lightened. SBD have someone who does them I believe. Mine has done lots of race starts, seems bullet proof and I always got off the line pretty well IMHO 😬 I guess a race start is easier than start pulling a caravan up a hill. Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here My racing info site here Edited by - stevefoster on 8 Feb 2005 22:17:18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted February 9, 2005 Share Posted February 9, 2005 I am pretty sure that steve still has a lightened flywheel for sale still, i will ask him this morning. Watch This Space....Get it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted February 9, 2005 Share Posted February 9, 2005 Get it properly lightened by SBD and very important properly balanced together with the clutch. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted February 9, 2005 Share Posted February 9, 2005 & maybe do a search on here for what happened to the MOG VX when it's lightened flywheel let go. Get a steel one - QED do one that works fine with a standard assembly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted February 9, 2005 Share Posted February 9, 2005 Aves, Please note the word "properly" Also common sense dictates that lightening a cast flywheel would not be sensible for XE's using a significantly higher rev. limit than standard. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted February 9, 2005 Share Posted February 9, 2005 The standard mod does not reduce the thickness of the plate as such it removed the massive weighted lip all around the wheel leaving only posts to bolt the clutch cover on at the same spacing. As mentioned reving very high with any standard flywheel will be outside of OEM spec. Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here My racing info site here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary-Cornwall Posted February 9, 2005 Author Share Posted February 9, 2005 Thanks for the help all. From further research I'm looking at £400 for a replacement steel light flywheel and all the other bits to match (not heavy duty like Gambo's). Not sure it's worth it for my level (Trackdays and sprints running the XE on 40's at about 160bhp). Might put the funds towards a raceco exhaust instead to help on those noise limit days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete g Posted February 9, 2005 Share Posted February 9, 2005 how about an ally one ,they use standard clutch sett up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oi oi Posted February 9, 2005 Share Posted February 9, 2005 can recomend the qed one cant remeber how much i paid for it, bout 100 quid. good for road use but does take some of the weight out of the system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted February 9, 2005 Share Posted February 9, 2005 Buy a std fitment steel one - around £200. Otherwise spend probably circa £1200 on a small multiplate plus all the hydraulics to operate it correctly. There's not much in between. Do not use a lightened cast flywheel at any engine speed if you like eith a) your legs or b) your car to remain as presently intact. A very false economy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary-Cornwall Posted February 9, 2005 Author Share Posted February 9, 2005 Arnie, where do I find a standard fitment steel one? All my enquiries suggest that the lightened steel ones needed new associated parts, hence the 400 quid estimate from the likes of SBD and QED. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 QED do one that a standard clutch assembly & starter work with - I know - I've got one! I bought it 2 years ago but I'm pretty confident that it was circa £200 - & you don't need anything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 EFA - You can use a mechanical CRB with a multiplate. - I 've run with this for ages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 Alex, Using a cable works, but due to the much tighter tolerances in terms of bearing throw on the clutch springs the effects of cable stretch make the installation hit and miss with the risk of damaging the springs. The hydraulic mechanism is in essence self adjusting in this respect. Aves - I'm surprised you shop at QED, knowing what you do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain chaos Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 I know Alex has had great success with his CRB set up, but I used exactly the same method and had loads of problems. Ended up going down the hydraulic route and it's been great. (previous Arnie tip from 2002!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 I still don't know why you had so much trouble, CC. Touch wood, mine's never had a prob. Alex Edited by - Alex Wong on 10 Feb 2005 23:28:59 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted February 11, 2005 Share Posted February 11, 2005 If you remember Arnie.......... my wife had to order the bits in her maiden name because of what was going on at the time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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