CRB & Clutch Replacement

[Matt Shears]

Before the track season gets into full swing I need to change the clutch release bearing, on my 1800vvc, which has been rattling around since last summer. I realise this is an engine out job, something I am not entirely comfortable doing, so I have enlisted the help of a capable friend. We'll be doing the job at his place so I want to make sure I have all of the neccessary parts etc. before we start.

 

Whilst the engine is out I am intending to change the clutch (car has done 40k miles), engine mounts, heat shield the starter motor and wrap the exhaust primaries. I won't be undertaking any upgrades as I will be changing the car later this year for a race car.

 

So onto my questions:

Firstly is there anything else I should do whilst the engine is out?

Secondly, What parts am I going to need for the job? So far the list is:

CRB - do I get this from CC?

Clutch plate - what type should I go for? I have a six speed box and use the car on track and road

Engine mounts - assume these come from CC?

The exhaust heat sheild and exhaust wrap is easy but is there anything else I'll need before we start the job?

 

Useful advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Matt.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Racingshoe]

Matt,

I did this last summer. I found it easier to leave the gearbox in place and just remove the engine. The CRB is on the clutch actuator arm, and is easy to get at with the 'box left in place. I got my CRB from Caterham for about a tenner. I did an oil & filter change at the same time - you may also want to change your foam baffle if you have a wet sump.

 

 

Rik Robarts - bl**dy bright orange 1.4k SS here

[KevSull Too]

Worth doing the gearbox oil too while you're at it. You'll need to if you take the box out attached to the engine as all the oil ends up on your drive, much to the wifes annoyance!

Before you decide to do the gearbox oil, try to get an allen key onto the filler plug with the engine still in the car 😬

Also find a length of pipe and fix a funnel to the end as a filler for the gearbox, then have a gullible friend lay on the floor under the car as an early warning that the gearbox is full!! *wink*

 

😬You laugh at me because I'm different, I laugh at you because you're all the same. 😬

 

[Shaun_E]

Have just put engine and gearbox back in after my rebuild. I replaced the following;

CRB - £10 from Caterham

Clutch - new AP clutch cover and plate about £200 from Caterham (they have standardised on one clutch now)

Some of the hoses replaced with silicon ones as the old ones had perished a bit.

Engine mounts.

Gearbox mount (I took gearbox out which is the more normal method)

Gearbox refurbished and new oil.

Service items (don't necessarily need engine out but easy to work on if you have:

Oil and filter

rotor arm and distributor cap

spark plugs

I was fitting a dry sump but if not then change the foam baffle while the engine is out

 

Yellow SL #32

[Matt Shears]

That's a great help thanks guys.

 

I would like to change the gearbox oil and it wouldn't be a bad idea to change the GB mounts. Is it a lot more work to get the gearbox out?

 

I'm really pleased I did that recent oil change with 7 litres of Valvoline Race Oil at 32 quid for 5 litres!!! Good stuff though.

 

Matt.

 

 

[KevSull Too]

Doubt it's much harder than splitting in place. Deffo easier to get the 'box back on the engine and bolt it all together.

With someone to help it should be OK, worst part is the 'wiggle' to get it out from uner the bulkhead, but a little patience will reward, (forward a little, up a little, forward a little etc....)

Others have recommended MTL for the gearbox, apparently gives a much smoother change from cold.

 

 

😬You laugh at me because I'm different, I laugh at you because you're all the same. 😬

 

[F355GTS]

Matt

 

it's as easy eitherway, if anything it's a bit easier to get both out in one go

 

I doubt the g/box mount will need changing

 

if you can borrow an original plug for the gearbox you can push it in as soon as hte propshaft drops out and this will stop most of the oil ending up on your drive

 

Mark

[Shaun_E]

The only really awkward bit about getting the gearbox out is undoing the 2 bolts holding gearbox mount to chassis. For this you need to remove the tunnel cover and then one person gets a socket onto the bolt head and the other undoes the nut from underneath the car. It's not that bad as long as the bolt isn't too rusty. A small 1/2" or 13mm socket (1/4" or 3/8" drive) will make the job easier as will a long socket extension bar. With the gearbox out with the engine it is then easy to split them and do the clutch change.

If you have removable top chassis rails in the engine bay then take them off as well - makes getting the engine in and out much easier.

 

Yellow SL #32

[Matt Shears]

Looks like a need to order the parts and get on with the job.

Thanks for your help.

Matt.