Chris__ Posted January 30, 2005 Share Posted January 30, 2005 Daft question alert. I have surface rust on some of my suspension arms and some other chassis bits where the powder coating wasn't so good. Nothing too severe, but I'd obviously like to stop the rot as it were. Can I just paint on the above stuff, or do I have to strip all the bits, blast them and paint them, then put them back on? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted January 30, 2005 Support Team Share Posted January 30, 2005 POR15 prefers rust as a base rather than bare metal. However remove any loose powder coat before painting. The thing to watch is whether the rust has crept along under the powder coat - if it has you will need to remove more of the powder coat. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted January 30, 2005 Share Posted January 30, 2005 This is pretty-easy to check/remedy. Just get a stiff wire-brush and have a bit of a go at the area around the rust-spot. If the powdercoat is compromised, it should just flake off fairly readily - just expand the area until you hit some good pc. As Shaun says - POR15 likes a bit of rust to get its teeth into - but a bit of brushing won't harm its prospects unless you manage to polish off all of the rust. Overpaint the good pc around the rust-spot for good-measure. Project Scope-Creep is underway... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris__ Posted January 30, 2005 Author Share Posted January 30, 2005 Paint Over Rust Paint Part number: 094.924 Stops rust permanently. The secret lies in the curing proces s. Unlike 'paint' it cures by drawing moisture from the atmo sphere. Paint, on the other hand, cures through the process of solvent evaporation through pores which allows microscopi c amounts of air and moisture to gradually reach ther surfac e of painted metal. Colour semi-gloss black Stocked in: each Weight: 0(kg) Price: £13.95 Colour: Black Size: Pint Catalogue page: 200 [back] [new search] [] -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- **All product pictures and descriptions are copyright Holden Vintage & Classic Ltd 2005** MANY PRODUCTS CLAIM TO STOP RUST; SOME ARE PAINTS, SOME ARE CONVERSION PRODUCTS, SOME ARE RUST TREATMENTS. NONE SEEM TO REALLY STOP RUST PERMANENTLY. WHY IS POR-15 DIFFERENT, AND WHY SHOULD I BELIEVE IT WILL WORK ANY BETTER? Rust is caused by moisture coming in contact with metal, which causes a chemical action called oxidation. All paints provide a measure of protection for a while, but since they are eventually softened and weakened by moisture, it is only a matter of time before moisture penetrates the painted surface and attacks the metal below. All of the rust preventive paints on the market (except POR-15) are weakened by exposure to moisture. POR-15 is strengthened by exposure to moisture. Notice the hardness of the POR-15 coating. It doesn't chip, crack, or peel like ordinary paints do, and its hardness will resist the wear and tear of every day life. POR-15 works because it chemically bonds to rusted metal and forms a rock- hard, non-porous coating that won't crack, chip, or peel. It keeps moisture away from metal with a coating that is strengthened by continued exposure to moisture. IS IT BETTER TO BRUSH OR SPRAY POR-15? Most people brush it on, but many spray also. Proper equipment and organic vapor particulate respirators for solvents are essential for spraying. HOW DO I THIN POR-15 IF I WANT TO SPRAY IT? You should use only POR-15 Solvent for thinning. Keep lacquer thinner handy for clean-up. Do not thin POR-15 more than 5%. CAN I PAINT OVER POR-15 WITH OTHER PAINTS? Absolutely. POR-15 will accept all paints, including lacquer-based paints. POR-15 Tie-Coat Primer is the best prime coat to use before topcoating POR-15. Be sure to read thoroughly our directions and tip sheets regarding topcoating before using POR-15. CAN I USE BODY FILLER OR PUTTY WITH POR-15? Yes. First paint both sides of the rusted area with POR-15; then use body filler or putty as soon as the POR-15 is dry to the touch. HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE POR-15 TO DRY? That depends on the ambient humidity (surrounding area). The more humid the area, the faster the dry time, which usually varies from 3 to 6 hours. IS IT DANGEROUS TO GET POR-15 ON MY HANDS? No, but if you do, remove it at once with solvent or lacquer thinner. If POR-15 dries on your skin, nothing will take it off, and you will 'wear' it for 3 or 4 days until natural oils and flaking skin remove it. ARE THE POR-15 VAPORS DANGEROUS TO MY HEALTH? Yes. That's why you must always paint in a well-ventilated area and keep your nose away from the paint container. POR-15 is not dangerous if you follow our simple directions. WHAT IS THE BEST SURFACE ON WHICH TO PAINT POR-15? POR-15 likes rusted surfaces best. Seasoned metal and sandblasted metal are also good. POR-15 does not adhere well to smooth, shiny surfaces, but will adhere well to those surfaces with the proper preparation. WHAT IS THE 'PROPER PREPARATION'? We make a product called 'Metal-Ready'. It's a rust remover that leaves a zinc phosphate coating on base metal, the perfect preprimer for POR-15. NOTE: New steel is coated with a protective oil finish at the mill. This finish must be removed before using POR-15 or Metal-Ready. Clean metal first with POR-15 Marine-Clean, then rinse with water and dry. WHICH POR-15 (BLACK, SILVER, GRAY, CLEAR) SHOULD I USE? Silver contains metal filler and should be used in badly rusted, pitted areas. It will fill in holes better than black or clear. Black is generally used on frames, underside of wings, etc. because that's the usual color there. Clear renders the smoothest finish and is often used as a preprimer on exterior surfaces; Grey is great on steel as well as concrete floors and storage areas. MUST I PAINT OVER POR-15 TO MAKE IT LAST? No, but POR-15 has an ultra-violet sensitivity and must be topcoated if continually exposed to sunlight. Once topcoated, POR-15 will remain effective for many years. WILL THE SUN DESTROY MY POR-15 COATING IF I DON'T TOPCOAT IT? No, your POR-15 protection will remain, but the sun will change its appearance cosmetically. That's why we recommend you topcoat it. CAN I APPLY POR-15 OVER OTHER PAINTS? Yes, but you will lose the important benefits of POR-15. You must remember that ordinary paints are weakened by exposure to moisture. POR-15 can't stop rust if it isn't in direct contact with the base metal. CAN POR-15 BE USED WITH FIBERGLASS? Absolutely. POR-15 is fully compatible with fiberglass and can be used to repair cracks in gelcoat. It will adhere better than polyester resin and has greater strength. Use also with fiberglass cloth to make super-strong surfaces in rusted-out areas. But be aware that POR-15 doesn't contain styrene and thus cannot melt fiberglass cloth like polyester resin does Thanks Shaun. In case of interest from others, a search on Holden's site revealed this - must research before asking stupid questions! http://www.holden.co.uk/main.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sootysevener Posted January 30, 2005 Share Posted January 30, 2005 Chris Use metal ready as well and you get the best bond as the rust is converted to an inert base David 1989 1700XF SS with upgraditis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard K Posted January 30, 2005 Share Posted January 30, 2005 Sorry to 'highjack' but I was just about to consider attacking the rust spots on my 89 frame and had thought of using Hamerite mat black ! Is this a 'no no' or will this be acceptable. Q. what is the advantage of Por115 over other products such as Hamerite? Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted January 30, 2005 Share Posted January 30, 2005 POR15 is tougher than hammerite. Hammerite works, but doesn't last as well - or so I am led to believe. However, I believe Norman Verona uses something called 'coach paint' on the basis that it doesn't chip either. Project Scope-Creep is underway... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted January 31, 2005 Share Posted January 31, 2005 I use chassis black as it has the correct semigloss finish, it's cheap and goes on in one go after a quick wirebrushing. At that rate I don't mind if I have to patch up scabs every couple of years. As with all these things and to quote the beer ad with the Dulux dog - "It's all in the preparation luv" so if I were going to the lengths and expense of POR 15 I'd be spending a lot of time prepping the base to a good finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted January 31, 2005 Support Team Share Posted January 31, 2005 POR15 requires very little preparation - a quick wire brushing is fine. If you believe the blurb it actually chemically bonds with rust so does the job of "metal ready" and hammerite/chassis black as well. I did some of chassis using POR15 about 18 months ago and when I stripped the car down recently the bits I'd painted were perfect - it was the rest that was in a right state. I had done my front lower chassis rail with it as it was a mess and there wasn't a single chip on it. I am told that Hammerite is prone to chipping. POR15 is not UV stable - it discolours if exposed too much (doesn't affect the performance just the appearance) - so for areas that will see daylight regularly like wishbones, you probably need to overpaint with something like POR chassis coat. Having said all this I have given up the fight and had my chassis completely refurbished at Arch. I will be using leading edge tape to protect some of the more exposed chassis rails and lots of Dinitrol in the grot traps. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J A T Richardson Posted January 31, 2005 Share Posted January 31, 2005 My understanding is that POR 15 is actually based on "superglue" technology - hence the desire for moisture, which is how superglue works. I did my engine bay with POR, then oversprayed with Hammerite Satin black and 2 yrs on it is perfect. I'm now progressively stripping down the rest of the car and doing those bits too. Next stop: rear axle/suspension/tubework ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ferguson Posted January 31, 2005 Share Posted January 31, 2005 So chaps, unless i have missed it in the threads where do u buy this stuff from plse. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted January 31, 2005 Share Posted January 31, 2005 Frosts. here A little goes a long-way, so the small tin is usually sufficient. Just as well given the price... You want the P230 product-code stuff. here Project Scope-Creep is underway... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Edited by - Myles on 31 Jan 2005 15:05:33 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now