Irrelevant Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 Does anyone know what sized clutch master cylinder I should use for a Hayabusa motor? I want to mount it in the conventional position and use the holes I already have. Do the Caterham pedal boxes use a Triumph pattern? I have read up about cylinder diameters, pedal throws, pedal stops, etc. etc. but I still don't know what master will suit the standard Hayabusa hydraulic operated clutch when operated via a standard Caterham clutch pedal. It would be nice to be able to fit something and know it will do it's job as intended rather than having to mess around to get it working properly. TIA p.s. I do not have the original bike master cylinders. No longer after a 3.14 diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver 21 Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 Adam No doubt I will be shot down in flames but I'm not sure how much of a difference bore etc will make, I've got the same problem and having looked at Barry Hunts car he has fitted a 60/70's style Girling master cyclinder the ones with the reservoir as part of the cast body, he says it works but I'm not sure about bore sizes etc??. Its only one pipe then from the cylinder to the Clutch, I presume the bore of pipe/flexible hose will make a difference to the feel??? Graham Competition Secretary 2005 Speed Championship - 13 Rounds with 7 counting towards the championship Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irrelevant Posted January 9, 2005 Author Share Posted January 9, 2005 Hi BB. This thread covers the issues I'm concerned with but for a car engine based clutch. You'll see from Chelspeed's posts that to calculate the ideal size you need figures like actuator throw, slave cylinder diameter, etc. which I don't have or aren't in the Suzuki manual and I don't have the bits to measure. If my assumptions about a Triumph fitting are correct, I'd assume Barry uses an old Herald/Spitfiire master cylinder. That's what I was going to plump for if I could't find someone to copy. I think Brodie/Jes have cable operated clutches. Andy Griffiths may be able to help but, if he's a Blatchatter, I don't know his username. No longer after a 3.14 diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Durrant Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 Adam Andy posts as 'Andy Griffiths'. If you look half way down the page here you will see a posting so you can drop him an email. Mark D Su77on Se7ens Considering my options for 2005 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irrelevant Posted January 9, 2005 Author Share Posted January 9, 2005 Cheers Mark, I was sure I'd seen Andy's postings but couldn't find him via the search facility I've emailed Andy so hopefully he can help. Edited by - AdamHay on 9 Jan 2005 13:31:56 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 Adam - if you want to try out a clutch master cylinder, I have a Girling 5/8" going spare (going from hydraulic to cable). This is the type with the 'integral' reservoir. Used it on my Toyota gearbox, but it's gonna be more trouble to convert the R1 to hydraulic than to change my pedal to cable-operating. Lobbying Caterham for a new badge.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chelspeed Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 Adam - The concerns I had was with an AP twin plate racing clutch that specified a maximum travel. This was becasue the design of clutch mean that if you pushed it too far the back of the diaphragm spirngs touched the outer plate centre, not big or clever as they're going different speeds when the clutch is disengaged. Can you tell from the hyabusa clutch design if there would be a major disaster if push it too far? Nearly everyone uses 5/8 or 0.7inch diameter m/c fro clutches. I'd start with that and put a limiter in (big bolt thro the floor under the pedal) start with very little travel then increase it until it works. Once you have a feel for it you can decide if yoiu want to juggle diameters to change the feel of the clutch pedal. The bolt holes are universal, everything from a standard Imp to an AP racing master cylinder uses the same centres and bolt sizes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christian.v Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 Suzuki run a 16mm bore m/c with ( I think an 18 lever ratio). 20 ratio are available also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bare Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 Super7cars.com... the fellow 'Builds' Hyabusa Caterhams.. brand new.. Authourised by Cat even.. why not ask him? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 Bare, Looking at those photos I can't see a clutch m/c so presumably he's also using cable Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irrelevant Posted January 9, 2005 Author Share Posted January 9, 2005 Thanks for the info everyone. It looks like 5/8 will be a good starting point. Ferrino: I'm not exactly in a rush for m/c (plenty else to be going on with) but I'd rather buy than borrow so if this is acceptable, could you drop me an email to let me know how much you'd want for it? - Ta No longer after a 3.14 diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony pashley Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 If this helps at all... Blackbirdman has a 5 / 8" Girling with integral reservior on his car (obviously a Blackbird rather than a Hyabusa). This seems to work fine and has even survived me driving it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 Adam - YHM. Lobbying Caterham for a new badge.... Edited by - Ferrino on 9 Jan 2005 21:39:40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irrelevant Posted January 9, 2005 Author Share Posted January 9, 2005 Ferrino: Got your mail and thanks for the offer but I need to do a bit of research to see if a hydraulic clutch will be suitable. It turns out that all the Caterham Busas I know of (Brodie, Jes, Andy) have cable clutches and a cable clutch is a popular mod with Hayabusa drag bikes as it gives better feel. I've also read about a lot of problems with the hydraulic slave cylinder on Busas with modified clutches (mine will be modded), e.g. I'll do some research at 'work' tomorrow to get the full picture. No longer after a 3.14 diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caligarinet Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 1 vote here for cable driven clutch over hydralic clutch. don't know about the hyabusa, but the ZX12R the clutch is so light, there are springs fitted to my clutch pedal just to give the pedal some weight. no need for a hydralic clutch really, much easier to fit a cable. Kawasaki ZX12R Powered Caterham 7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christian.v Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Certainly this was a weak point on the bikes I was involved with. From memory three long bolts attach the cover and cracking did occur--also happened on the cable clutch ones though-sorted with kit-type cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_ed Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 You want the smallest master cylinder you can get. Wilwood do a 0.5 inch one. If its anything like my blackbird is, pushing the pushrod too far on the slave cylinder will just result in the springs on the clutch cover going coilbound. But you need a small m/c to give you a half decent amount of pedal travel. You can also redrill the clevis point closer to the pivot point on the pedal. I'd recommend adding a helper spring to give better pedal feel, and also a pedal stop. Cheers, Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_m Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 My master is 0.625 which could well do with being smaller. Stiffer springs in the clutch help a lot too, the stock springs are pretty weak. Make sure you have a pedal stop too, if you press too hard you can break the bolts that hold the clutch springs in. When you press the clutch pedal make sure that the stop comes into action well before the pedal goes hard. You only need about 2mm of clutch rod movement to disengage the clutch. If you haven't already, it's a great mod to remove the existing two piece inner clutch lockup centre and replace it with the single BDE piece, PowerTec sell them, Radical use them, takes away 50% of the clonking and makes it much easier to pull away without stalling. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanB Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 I agree with Ed, use the smallest you can find - my 'bird clutch uses an old-fashioned .5" integral reservoir Girling MC. Another option is to use a bike rear brake MC - requires bracketry to keep it in position and some mods to the actuator shaft but it's a handy way of getting an MC with a small diameter. HTH Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now