Tyrone Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Over Christmas attempted to fit the JPE aero and I think I've made a horlicks of it. I should have searched Techtalk first! The screen is second hand from Mark Collins and I've gone and lost one of the mounting blocks, anyone have a spare? Secondly, the passenger side fixing position is obscured by a bracket welded to the chassis for the the handbrake/wiper motor, how the hell do I get the bolt through and drive it home. Finally, the best fit is not brilliant where do I get hold of the U section trim or something similar to seal the bottom edge of the aero to the scuttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Brian There was one fitting loose, did it arrive with you? it was taped on to the backside with some masking tape. It didn't have any 'U' channel when fitted on my car, does it need it? Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Tyrone - been there, done that.... Erm, some oldish info. on my site here The mounts on the shoulders of the scuttle were more than a nightmare. Basically, IIRC, I ended up getting some longish-bolts, some butterfly nuts and a nyloc or two. I ran the bolt through the butterfly-nut (to create a butterlfly-bolt) and then secured the butterfly in place (on the bolt) with the nyloc. I then cut a small-square (say 1.5cm each side) from a mousemat and made a hole in the center... I then used a pair of pliers/hands to guide the assembly up behind the motor assembly (and FIA switch on the drivers-side) and through the hole. Took lots of patience and a lot of time. Once in the hole, I managed to get the mousemat-square over the shaft of the bolt (still holding the bolt in place) - this stops it being able to fall back out of the hole... I then used a pair of long-nosed pliers to grasp the shaft of the bolt and start it biting into the JPE mounting wedge. Once it has started to bite, you can then get back beneath the scuttle and do up the butterfly-bolt with hands or pliers (curved-jaw?) Complete PITA. Some people just don't bother with the shoulder mounts... Next-question - the rubber strip... I searched long and hard for this - part of the problem is that you really need some automotive-quality rubber. This is UV-stable and shouldn't perish - unfortunately, it is expensive and quite hard to find. I ended up using some rather nasty (heavy, patterned-finish, slightly abrasive) edging that I think is used for things like SVA-compliance edging on the scuttle etc. It left a slight abrasion across the width of the scuttle after many-months usage. Looked OK though. IN the end, I made the Mark I and then Mark II AR7E aeros - these bolt on from the outside (in about a minute...) and are thin-enough to allow some rubber edging strip from a greenhouse manufacturer to protect the paintwork... And the aero is much more efficient than the JPE... Piccies etc. here Project Scope-Creep is underway... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyrone Posted January 4, 2005 Author Share Posted January 4, 2005 Mark, Yes the separate block came with the screen, but like a numpty I lost the chuffing thing, Ithink it got stuck onto the bottom of a bag of shopping in the boot. I'm thinking of fabricating new blocks with threaded studs on the bottom face and wing nut from inside then bolt the screen to the blocks. In the interim if anyone has got spare blocks they would be appreciated. Myles, I've printed off your instructions for fitting the JPE, if I'd done that in the first place I probably wouldn't be quite so pi$$ed off with myself now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StewartG Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Black electrical tape carefully applied to seal the seam between jpe and scuttle was the neatest solution I came up with. Takes a few attempts to get it looking good though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Wouldn't have worked too well on mine - aside from any issues about whether the tape would stick in wet weather, my JPE had some pretty horrific, uneven gaps across the width of the scuttle. ☹️ I measured the 'height'/width of the screen either-side of the mirror - the max height differed by about 8mm IIRC - I'm not talking about the screen being angled differently on each side - the amount of perspex was different. Holes weren't symmetrical either. Project Scope-Creep is underway... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyrone Posted January 4, 2005 Author Share Posted January 4, 2005 Roger that, Myles. Maybe I was expecting a better fit and I have what everyone else has. Can perspex be heated gently to persuade it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oi oi Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 i heated mine to fit to mine. i have a heat gun if you want to borrow - maybe at the next ne7ers meet let me know via email - just visiting here to understand more about scampi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Yes it can. but I don't think you'll sort out the gaps between the panels and the bottom-edge of the screen that way - you'd probably end up just putting unsightly wobbles in the leading edge. Best bet is to look here - this is the crowd I got my edgind-strip from - they might have come up with something better over the last year or so. Project Scope-Creep is underway... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 Tyrone, Fitted mine a couple of months ago. I fould the same problem with the LH fitting with the wiper motor and it's bracket making it impossible to get a bolt into place. In the end I just left the bolt out and used a smal square of velcro for this one and one above steering column. It was good for 130mph around Goodwood for a day though this was without any mirrors attached to the aeroscreen. As to sealing the gap I simply didn't bother. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyrone Posted January 5, 2005 Author Share Posted January 5, 2005 Steve, that'll do for me, don't think me X flow will ever reach the dizzy heights of 130 mph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duffym Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 Bri , I'm sure with your new screen and heavy right foot you could get close! I still have 3 airbrakes fitted so I wont new owner of 1989 supersprint in brg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Richard Price Posted January 5, 2005 Area Representative Share Posted January 5, 2005 I borrowed a factory supplied JPE screen to make a pattern, and was surprised how poor the fit was! Once I'd made my pattern, it was obvious why fit is different from side to side. The shape is quite different! I've tried to make mine incorporating the best features of both sides! Whilst fitting the fixing on the LHS is a fiddle, its made easier if the wiper motor is released from its mount and swung out of the way. I fix mine in place with M5 socket head screws, and use an extended ball ended Allen key to tighten this far LHS fixing. I can remove the full screen and fit the aero in about 30mins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 Tyrone Happy New Year mate You could finish the edge next to the scuttle with the SVA rubber they use for the cycle wings. R500 no 65 😬 I am after a pair of half doors and an QR aero screen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adrain Posted January 7, 2005 Share Posted January 7, 2005 I have a gap under my [RiF] aero too. I didn't bother with the rubber beading in the end - used some plumber's insulation foam insted, but even so there are still some gaps. But in reality even in atrocious rain on some track track days, no 'draughts' or rain comes under the aero at all, so appart from the look of it gaps seem to make no performance difference. Large viperblue/yellow 1.6 S/S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Gillet Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 MOG makes a 'fixing kit' which looks like stanchions made of carbon. Seems that it would make the installation very easy. Any experience with that one ? http://www.mog-racing.de/english/framepage_main_english.htm, and then 'carbon'. Pierre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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