masha Posted September 4, 2001 Share Posted September 4, 2001 Can anyone confirm which of the 4 terminals on the back of the Caterham supplied (Farnell) push-button start I should connect to what? I've read the thread on fitting the aviation-style, flip and toggle start switch and was wondering if anyone could confirm the wiring descibed is similar on the push-button in relation to a std. 1.6k/Superlight/MEM's vehicle. thanks Matthew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Brother Posted September 4, 2001 Share Posted September 4, 2001 Masha, From memory you need to use the two outer terminals. For instructions on wiring up, see the thread titled "starter Button" There is a link to the "instruction" post. Also there are instructions on fitting on the modifications page at the Seven gallery. Steve cool.gifScream...if you want to go faster!!!id=limegreen> cool.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masha Posted September 4, 2001 Author Share Posted September 4, 2001 Sorted thanks: here's the summary: courtesy of the 7gallery site I believe, thanks Big Red Caterham Starter Button Fitting the Big Red Starter Button couldn't be easier, this was how I did it: 1) Disconnect the battery. 2) The hard bit, work out where you want the button to go, and cut a suitable sized hole, being careful not to catch any wires behind the dash. I used a drill to make a series of holes to get a rough hole and then finished it off with a Dremel. 3) Measure the distance between the button and the ignition and cut two lengths of appropriate ampage auto electrical wire (allowing for cable routing). Cut a third length of wire about 6 inches long. 4) Take one of the long lengths and the short length and twist the ends together and attach a female spade connector. Attach a male spade connector to the other end of the short cable and a suitably sized female connector (for connection to the button) to the other end of the long wire. This is wire A. 5) Attach a male spade connector to one end of the other wire, and again, a suitably sized female connector to the other end for attachment to the button. This is wire B. 6) Remove the black shroud from the rear of the ignition barrel, it should just slide off. Feed the new wires you have assembled through this shroud. 7) Locate the connector on the ignition barrel with two brown wires attached, remove this connector and taking wire A, attach the female spade connector to the ignition barrel where you have just removed the brown wires. Connect the male spade connector to the brown wires you have just removed. Run the remaining long end to one terminal on the button. 8) Locate the connector on the ignition barrel with the red & white wire attached, remove this connector and taking wire B, attach the male spade connector to the red & white wire. Run the other end of the wire to the other terminal on the button. 9) Reconnect the battery, turn on the ignition using the key and press the button. Simple really! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted September 4, 2001 Share Posted September 4, 2001 Masha, Can you help me with this to finally clarify? 1. Which two terminals of the button do you use? 2. Wiring it as you described, is the engine capable of being cranked at all times (by mistake or somebody fiddling) 3. If this is the case, instead of using the brown wires for the live feed, is it possible instead to use the white wire as suggested by Elie Boone in the previous thread.He said that, in this case there will be no power on the button when the key is not at the ignition position Masha, Elie and other auto-electrical experts, your comments please. Thanks, Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted September 4, 2001 Share Posted September 4, 2001 Paul, I did not used the Caterham starter button but a Bosch part n° 0 343 004 003 price 30£ !!!!! and it is fitted in the triangle on the left af the steering wheel ( LHD )but the button is in a safety housing. For safety reasons i would defenently use the white wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Brother Posted September 4, 2001 Share Posted September 4, 2001 Paul, Just checked mine - if you use the Farnell button its the two outer terminals you need. If you tap one terminal into the white wiring (from the ignition switch) and move the red/white wire (from the ignition switch) to the other terminal on the button. This results in the button only working when the ignition circuit is live (key turned). Steve cool.gifScream...if you want to go faster!!!id=limegreen> cool.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted September 4, 2001 Share Posted September 4, 2001 Thanks, Steve All is now clear Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard J Darnell Posted October 21, 2001 Share Posted October 21, 2001 I'm dragging this thread back up to the top to ask if anyone knows what ampage wire I should use to wire the button into the ignition for 1.6k? Is it critical to use the correct ampage wire or will any wire of similar thickness to the ignition wire do? I know very little about electrics so any guidance would be appreciated.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Brother Posted October 21, 2001 Share Posted October 21, 2001 Richard, The amperage is not critical as the button is used momentarily (unless you've got a x flowsmile.gif}and only operates a solenoid. It is this that takes the starter current. Choose a guage wire the same or bigger than the existing ignition wiring and all should be fine. If you only have "thin" wire, it is OK to double it up and run 2 instead of 1. Hope this helps. Steve cool.gifScream...if you want to go faster!!!id=limegreen> cool.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bafty Crastard Posted October 23, 2001 Share Posted October 23, 2001 I think you will fined the terminal on the push button is so small that the appropriate "spade" connector will only take a fairly thin wire ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Sewell Posted October 24, 2001 Share Posted October 24, 2001 I am somewhat concerned about using this lash up to extend the '2 brown wires' that are the feed from the alternator. THese can carry upto 45Amps and are then directed via the ignition switch to the fuse box. Surely all you need is a switched live (accessory position) and a wire (preferably white/red to the starter control. Both of these should be low current as the solenoid will not draw much current. Cheers, Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Flatters Posted October 24, 2001 Share Posted October 24, 2001 I fitted the big red button this year and wired it to the switched supply so that the engine would not crank with the ignition off. What worried me more was, what if some inquisitive dipstick decided to hit the button while the engine was running and grenade my starter-motor/ring-gear etc. Solution: I used a electronic module (from a car alarm) which only supplies power to the starter button for about 15 seconds. Plenty of time to start the engine, but then it deactivates until the ignition is switched off and then on again. No good for racing but a neat solution for the road. If anyone is interested I could probably come up with a wiring diagram and details of the electronic module. Steve Mell PTM 88 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted October 24, 2001 Share Posted October 24, 2001 Graham, Don't touch the brown wires. Do exactly what Steve Motts told me to do in the earlier posting on this page i.e. one wire from an outer terminal of the button to the white wire terminal on the switch (you may be lucky like me and find a piggy-back connector already there), and secondly remove the red/white wire from the switch and extend it and connect it to the other outer terminal of the button. Also the whole job is a lot easier if you first remove the steering lock/switch assembly so you can see what you're doing. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masha Posted October 24, 2001 Author Share Posted October 24, 2001 Thanks for the discussions on this so far.. I've got mine installed and up and running (I haven't done anything to stop it working when the engine's running though - I just avoid pressing it). The scariest part for me was drilling the carbon dash on the SL but a new hole-saw bit did the trick fairly painlessly (and neatly). What I would like to know if anyone can figure out a circuit to press the switch again (once running) to cut the car out - ie one press to start, one press to stop (to stop having to reach for the key at all now its fitted). Alternatively I could put a cut out on another rocker-switch for convenience and to keep the dash neat - I have a spare heater and brake-test button not being used I could adapt? M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Flatters Posted October 24, 2001 Share Posted October 24, 2001 Masha, I have got to do some carbon fibre hole cutting soon. Can you tell me what make hole cutters you use and where you get them and what sizes they do. Thanks a load Steve Mell PTM 88 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted October 24, 2001 Share Posted October 24, 2001 Masha, If you use a rocker switch for the ign. cut out you have to use a relais of 75 or 100 amp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard J Darnell Posted October 24, 2001 Share Posted October 24, 2001 For cutting the hole which I agree is the "scary bit" I just used a hole cutting drill bit that I already had (marked 20 which i assume is 20mm in diameter). This was fractionally too small to fit the R500 button (the one Farnell sell - I bought this direct for £8.05, with free delivery - bargain!) so I finished off with a round file. My dash is the standard plastic coated metal one, but the hole produced was very neat. Not sure if cutting into carbon fibre needs a different approach.... I just need to wire the button up now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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