Dobuy Posted December 18, 2004 Share Posted December 18, 2004 After noticing a subtle clue that something was wrong (car hard to push and metal on metal noise) I stripped the rear brakes off. I found my drivers side worn to the metal on the inside pad and not much better on the outside. The offside, while worn a fair bit, has about 2-3mm of meat left. I have the CC uprated fronts and used the pads they supplied for the rear that match the fronts. Questions? 1: Does this seem abnormal wear after 18 track sessions lasting 20 minutes and 1000km of road use? 2: Is it normal to have one axle set wear faster than the other? 3: As I am stuck out here in the desert, and pads are not readily available, can I use the other rear pads that came with the car, but are not meant for use with the uprated fronts. 4: Any suggestions on how to get the piston back without a Halfords tool? 5: Any suggestions on pad material, as I have not been that impressed with the rears to start with. Any other comments or advice would be welcome Duratec Se7en SV, built in Dubai, pics here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mic Posted December 18, 2004 Share Posted December 18, 2004 Neil You can wind the piston back by applying pressure on the piston and turning it clockwise at the same time. I've done this using the points of long nose pliers when I've not had the correct tool to hand. Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyslr Posted December 18, 2004 Share Posted December 18, 2004 I killed my rear pads (which at the time were the "uprated" Caterham standard issue that they put on if you have the large front brakes - ie same as you I expect) in about 1 track session so I think yours have done well. I swapped to Pagid blacks, a carbon-meatllic pad, which are forever being recommended on here. These seem very expensive initially, but they last very well and hence probably pay you back. Fluke Motorsport or Performance Braking can both supply them, although postage is probably a few quid for you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted December 18, 2004 Share Posted December 18, 2004 All normal i'm sorry to say. I use Mintex M1144 if i can get them, otherwise, ferrodo ds2500's MDB1287 - Sierra rear pads. You can use the long nose pliers option, but obtaining the correct tool makes it much much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dobuy Posted December 19, 2004 Author Share Posted December 19, 2004 Thanks, I will try the needle nose pliers Obviously I am going to have to match my fronts and back pads, for the moment, do you see any harm in using the rear pads that came with the kit that were ment to compliment the standard fronts calipers? Can you get pagids for the uprated fronts, or should I stick to mintex 1144 all round? Duratec Se7en SV, built in Dubai, pics here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 Neil, If you still have the orginal pads (with Lucas stamped in the backs and a blue dot) then they will be fine. You can get Pagids all round if you want, although i'm not sure where or how much. I think if you search for Performance Braking you will find the supplier that a lot on here recommend... if you cant get the pagids, then you can go up on the mintex range, 1155, 1166 and ultimately F4R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Walker Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 Pagid black RS14 are available for both the uprated front and stock sierra calipers. If you fit the same material front and rear the brake balance will be near perfect. Cost is around £130 for the fronts and £120 rears from performance braking tel John Freeth on 01600 713117 top bloke. the pads may seem expensive but they are very durable and will almost double your braking effort without eating your discs, worth every penny IMO Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dobuy Posted December 19, 2004 Author Share Posted December 19, 2004 OK, so managed to get the pistons back in (needle nose pliers) and fitted the "wrong, non Lucas" Caterham supplied rear pads, as it is all I have available. I have to say that the rear brake set up with handbrake is a sod to work on, not very elegant at all. Looks like it is under specced for the job and inadequately cooled. Next question, presuming I forget about the handbrake, what other calipers are available at a reasonable price? Duratec Se7en SV, built in Dubai, pics here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dobuy Posted December 20, 2004 Author Share Posted December 20, 2004 Anybody know the pad number of my front (mid 2003) black CC supplied AP 4 pot calipers? Duratec Se7en SV, built in Dubai, pics here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted December 20, 2004 Share Posted December 20, 2004 im not 100% on this, but may be cp2340. check with caterham... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted December 20, 2004 Share Posted December 20, 2004 And as for your other point, we (Mark and I) had a theory about the uneven wear, which might apply to your car. The rear calipers are supposed to 'float' and slide in/out as you press the brake. If your car is fitted with solid brake pipes, as ours was, we reckon that this could reduce the tendancy for the brake pads to relax off the disc totally - in other words, one pad is still being slightly held against the disc, and obviously wearing away quicker as a result. We changed our solid pipes to flexiable ones, and I am about to replace our rear pads, so I will see if the wear is even or not. Every time we replaced the pads before, they were uneven. Big update! here 77,777miles in 3 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil.cavanagh Posted December 21, 2004 Share Posted December 21, 2004 I had to replace my rear pads recently (on an SV). This was the first change. the front pads had about half left but rears were shagged. In fact, the wear was rather un-even and the inside pad had totally disappeard and eaten the disc for its lunch on one side. ☹️ ☹️ Angus&Mark, sounds like there could be some truth in your theory. I'll be interested to hear your results! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted December 21, 2004 Share Posted December 21, 2004 Sorry to throw a spanner in the theories. I doubt the type of pipe is going to affect this. It's more likely insufficient clearance between pedal and master cylinder. I had a car at Le mans which was locking the rear brakes on solid in 5 minutes of driving. Freed off the pedal (ie more clearance) and it was fine. May have been the heat (104c) affecting the fluid. The other problem with single piston rear callipers is brake dust getting into the slide mechanism and causing it to stick. Remove, clean with a spirit, and lightly apply copperslip. Some do not apply any oil or grease as it's this the dust sticks to, however on a Caterham I would. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Mem No 2166, the full story here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griff Posted December 21, 2004 Share Posted December 21, 2004 Neil, Check Demon Tweeks catalogue as many of the pads are shown with shapes and principle dimensions, otherwise draw round it, scan it in and email to them to identify. Other sources might be cheaper though! Mine has Mintex 1144 all round which provides ample braking compared to the limited grip at the Autodrome - fair price too compared to Pagid. I've even got a spare set of rears in the garage but I'll need them fairly soon as mine are getting low too - welcome to them if you can replace them before the next track day... Mike It's not pink, it's medium red violet... 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dobuy Posted December 22, 2004 Author Share Posted December 22, 2004 Thanks for the replies. Norman, that sounds quite possible, although it is a brand new caliper. The Dust out here could easily cause sticking. Will clean and lubricate as suggested. I have done a bit of damage to the disc, so will need to source one of those. Really tempted to scrap the whole lot and get a set of 2 pots, without handbrake. Are there any after market 2 pots available that don't have a handbrake, that will bolt straight on? Duratec Se7en SV, built in Dubai, pics here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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