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Steering 'vibration'?


tony pashley

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Quick rack (''+22%''); standard track; just a touch of toe-in;

 

Above about 50 or 55 mph a very small ''rotational shimmy'' or vibration' of steering wheel is exhibited at the straight-ahead position on decent roads. It doesn't seem to affect directional stability and the weight of both hands resting on wheel is enough to stop it without making hands vibrate. (Will have to check if it goes away at much higher speed). UJ and clamp all appear to be done up properly. Steering wheel has no slop on the (QR) splines, but a tiny, tiny bit fore and aft.

 

Does anyone know what might be going on here?

Is it going to wear the rack in the straight ahead position?

Do I, perhaps, have far more toe-in or (-out) than I think I have?

Anyone recognise the symptoms?

 

Although there is no discernible (or measurable) slack in the steering, the wheel is noticeably ''lighter'' for a smidgeon either side of straight ahead.

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I've got a 80 - 100mph wheel wobble. Took the front wheels to BMTR in Perry Barr, B'ham and on their computerised piece of kit it said 0.0g out of balance. Nothing..!

 

On refitting the wheels I find I've still got quite a serious wobble, and no weights on the inside of the wheel. BMTR say they only fit weights to the offside rims so as to adequately clear brake calipers. They fit a lot of race cars see. this isn't a problem, even on the SLR with the big fron brakes, so I'll take the weights off myself and get them rebalanced, and ask them to use the inner rim too.

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This is a bit spooky. I have a similar store. I've just had a quick rack fitted (I asked for 8%, but the invoice says 22%, so I don't know which) and I've now got a 70-80 mph wheel wobble. Symptom is steering wheel vibrations at about that speed, though not all the time. I can be driving along and suddenly it will start to vibrate even though I haven't speeded up, or I'll speed up to 70 and get the vibration, then after a while it will suddenly stop even though I haven't slowed down.

My wheels should be well balanced. Firstly, I had new tyres fitted earlier in the year and the wheels were balanced then (and it looks like the weights are all still there). Secondly, I didn't have the wobble before I had the quick rack fitted.

Can incorrect tracking cause a wobble? What about worn bushes?

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Has anyone measured the backlash between the gears in the rack unit? If there is some free play it must allow some float and instability. I seem to remember a thread where some people discovered that their brand new racks weren't well set up.
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Thanks Jon, I'll try twirling the wheel tonight to see what I've got.

Chris Flavell, I've tried searching previous topics for threads about this, but the search always times out. Can you remember off the top of your head what the result of the thread was? Which backlash are you talking about and can it be measured by a mechanical incompetent (i.e. me)?

Anthony

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There are a couple of threads on Techtalk that may be interesting:

 

"Steering Rack Play" dated 30th Dec. 2000

 

Talks about how to adjust a rack.

 

"Quick Steering rack" dated 15th Feb 2000

 

There are some useful comments about Bump Steer by Mike Bees.

 

I have an article about rcaks at home. Will try to mail it to you later.

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Anthony -

AFAIR the 22% rack has a bare metal casting (ie silvery coloured)

while 8% has a black finish (or I think maybe green, yellow or something for widetrack without the extenders)

 

The turning circle is noticeably poorer with the very quick rack - so I suspect the percentages reflect some measure of amount of twirl needed lock to lock (rather than the actual ratio) which would exaggerate the percieved change over standard. The difference between the 8 and 22 didn't seem so vast as the figures led me to believe. But I'm just making this up - has anyone measured or taken one apart?

 

Haven't touched car again - will report ''as and when'' ...

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Well, I seem to have an oddity. I'm struggling to search back through previous threads (again, keeps timing out on me) but from this thread and things I read on Friday, the 8% rack should have a black casing and be about 2 turns lock to lock. The 22% rack has a silver casing and be 1.8 turns LTL.

 

My rack has a black casing and is 1.8 turns LTL. So, what type of rack is it?

 

I'll try and search through the old threads again, but 9 times out of ten the search times out :-( I know there were articles there that described different racks for different cars.

Anthony

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I have just had something similar on my road car. I had the wheels balanced and they were exactly right. I then re-did them on my 'old-fashioned' mechanical wheel balancer and they were still okay. However, when I put the wheels back on my road car, I spun them in situ, and discovered that one of the front ones had a 3mm distortion around its circumference. It was really easy to see when spun slowly but at the speed a wheel balancer works it was invisable. I swapped the tyre and all is now well. Check to see that the tyre isn't distorted when spun by hand.
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