Paul Formston Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Hi Lads Iv'e just bought my first seven and am A bit worried about all the pictures on Blatchat of rusty chassis and under panels is the powder coating on the new sevens good enough or do I need to paint the exposed chassis with some smoothright, im going to beed seal all joints with PRC(aircraft sealent ) to prevent water ingress and also over coat the rivet head and etch prime and paint the ally panels underneath with silver smoothright is this A good idea. and is there any sealent between the ally panels and the Chassis Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 I think it's a very good idea. Normally there's no sealant as this saves weight but it has to work. Dinitrol sprayon anti rust comôund is felt to be a good idea for the underside and better than Waxoyl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irrelevant Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 PRC is good stuff - my RAF mate used it for everything - including resoleing his shoes (just built up a few layers of PRC), sealing his roof, fixing punctures . . . . It wouldbe excellent as a rubberised coating/sealant for Caterham bits. Surrounded by cut up chassis tubes - still after a 3.14 diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Wouldn't bother smoothriting. Use POR15 instead - much tougher - and doesn't require complicated preparation of the metal either. Project Scope-Creep is underway... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Formston Posted December 3, 2004 Author Share Posted December 3, 2004 Hi again Myles Where would one get pro15 from not seen that thank for the info Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 Paul, POR15 here. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LazerBrain Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 Frosts I ordered some POR15 from them and it arrived within a day or 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 Before you use it, do a quick search on BC techtalk - it's all on the tin, but you'll probably need to read a few real-world reminders about not getting it on your skin (or rather cleaning it off before it dries - unless you like the warpaint look) and also sealing the tin with a double-layer of cling-film (if you ever want to open the tin again).... Project Scope-Creep is underway... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acw Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 Holdens here are selling packs of 6 smaller tins - item code S094.926 Andrew Edited by - acw on 3 Dec 2004 13:43:14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon M Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 So ,if I knew someone ( hypothetically speaking of course) who had the dreaded blistering of the skin on the drivers side by the pedal box - What should they do about it ? Just so I could pass on the information you understand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 Rivet some ally over the offending area then drive the tits off the car. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted December 3, 2004 Support Team Share Posted December 3, 2004 SimonM If it's getting that bad then you have 3 realistic choices: 1) Ignore it - clean out the grot traps, spray with some rust preventer (waxoyl or dinitrol) and hope it doesn't get any worse 2) have sideskins replaced - remove suspension and take to Arch. They will treat the exposed chassis and paint it, and then put new sideskins on. Take to TSK for paint if required. 3) go the whole hog and strip car completely for a chassis up refurbishment - this is what I am in the process of doing. Strip the car yourself (absolutely everything must come off) and then take to Arch for blasting to remove remaining powder coat and rust, repair if necessary, zinc phosphate prime,new powder coat and finally new panels. Take to TSK for a new paint job if required. Don't expect much change from £3k for this process. Of course you will inevitably end up spending a load more as you replace all the other things that are looking a bit tatty . Somehow I managed to end up with a new dry sump system 😬 amongst other new shiny bits. I suggest you look over the rest of the chassis to see if there are any other areas of rust - mine was suffereing quite badly at the back and some of the front chassis rails were very pitte as well. I painted them with POR15 a couple of years ago but it was only a temprary reprieve as you can't get to many of the areas that are badly affected without dismantling the car. Yellow SL #32 For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash Edited by - Shaun_E on 3 Dec 2004 15:00:00 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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