Leadership Team Mcalvert Posted December 2, 2004 Leadership Team Share Posted December 2, 2004 What is the best way to attach spade connectors and the like to wires? Whenever I use my crimping tool I end up with a connection which I never trust 100%. I then normally try to add solder and get in a mess Is there a guide to best practice here? What about heat shrink and the like? I've jusr received my Big Red starter button from RS components (ordered 7pm last night, delivered 08:40 this morning - amazing ) and want to make a good job when I do the wiring. Thanks! Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Hi Mike - thanks for last night - really enjoyed it Do yo uhave a 'proper' crimping tool, with the 'stepped' clampy bit - or do you just use a simple one that 'crushes' the connectors locally with a 'flat' crimping surface? Does that make sense?? If you have the latter, then buy the more expensive 'proper' version, I am pretty sure these are much much better at crimping reliably. HUGE UPDATE ALMOST WITH VIDEO here 70,000miles in 3 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Agree totally with Angus. The professional tool has a ratchet that will not release until the crimp is correct. It's always a good idea to dip the wire in copper grease first. Be aware that the Big Red Start Button needs smaller than standard connecters, but the correct size is available from Vehicle Wiring Products - probably not Halfords. Crimp connectors are used almost exclusively on aircraft because vibration can weaken a solder connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevsta Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Depending on wire thickness and the hole size in the connector it is worth having too much copper wire showing through then twisting it and doubling it back on itself so you get double the crimpage (sp?) on the wire...Agree totally about the 'proper' crimper too...can get on ebay or from good motor factors etc (not sure about halfrauds!) Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Mcalvert Posted December 2, 2004 Author Leadership Team Share Posted December 2, 2004 Hmm, looks like a new tol is needed. No, I only have a cheapy one without a ratchet. Any recommendations re makes/types to look for, or is it just a "ratchet crimper"? OK, so I invest in the proper tool, then: Strip insulation twist strands together? Dip in copper grease (what does this help with?) Squeeze until ratchet mechanism does its bit Do I need to worry about heat shrink sleeving? Thanks all - Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Pretty much - I guess copper grease stops the joint corroding and 'drying out' - you know, when they go all dusty and green! Ratchet tool applies correct pressure etc so no danger of cracking spade connector - if I had one you would be welcome to borrow it - but I don't!! HUGE UPDATE ALMOST WITH VIDEO here 70,000miles in 3 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Michael, get a DV5 from Vehicle Wiring Products 0115 930 5454. I'd lend you mine if you can get it back to me for next Thursday. Or can I make the wires up for you and bring them on Saturday? What I did, to avoid the clicking starter syndrome, is run a wire from the battery isolator to the button then from button to starter. I used 30 amp wire and routed away from heat. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Mem No 2166, the full story here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobjax Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 ...and finally, a topic in techtalk I think I know something about! Like most things 'you gets what you pays for' and the better crimping tools are generally 'more accurate' in forming the crimp around the cable than the 'lets crush it to death' cheaper tools. Buy a 'good ratchet' crimper. When I worked on aircraft, one of the biggest problems for 'crappy joints' (a technical term) was damage to the conductors through over aggressive insulation stripping. Dont overtwist the conductors, just enough to stop 'splaying'. As for heat shrink, its used as an insulator (and sometimes doubling up as a cable identifier) and if you can get it easily its not a bad practice to use it. (although Ive seen it used by people to try to hide poor crimping). Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 You can get the tool nad ends etc from here Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Mcalvert Posted December 2, 2004 Author Leadership Team Share Posted December 2, 2004 Thanks all - so it looks like the "Quality Ratchet crimper" at £30 in the site which Mark has suggested would be about right? Doesn't sound too expensive if this is an appropriate piece of kit? Regards -Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 yep - one of those tools that will last for life. HUGE UPDATE ALMOST WITH VIDEO here 70,000miles in 3 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Michael TBH I've got the £20 one and it's bvery substantial, did the whole loom for the (ill fated) P4 and much other work and it's still as good as new Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 ...and of course the P4 'incident' was not caused by a dodgy electrical connector 😳 (I mean it wasn't - really) 😬 HUGE UPDATE ALMOST WITH VIDEO here 70,000miles in 3 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Michael, you need to decide which terminals you're using before getting the correct tool. The DV% from VWP is 17.35 +VAT. I'll bring an assortment of terminals for this crimper if you want. Let me know. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Mem No 2166, the full story here should be DV5 - must remember to take finger off shift key Edited by - nverona on 2 Dec 2004 13:41:38 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 I think the Sykes Pickavant version of this tool is about £15-20. As with all Sykes gear, it's good enough for pros therefore it's good enough for me. I don't intend to use the thing every day after all. I should have put this on the Xmas list really, I'm still using the rubbish one for a couple of quid. I do back it up with solder though, if you know what you are doing and above all else everything's clean you don't make a mess of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackb_ms Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Michael If you only have a few and if it is the right one, you can borought the workshop's one. We're in Uxbridge so not so far... Jack Emily, The Very Yellow 21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Mcalvert Posted December 2, 2004 Author Leadership Team Share Posted December 2, 2004 Thanks Jack - I do appreciate the offer! However, I'm getting quite excited about a new addition to the garage, so I think I'll order one for myself All the best, and thanks to all for your suggestions & offers, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 I nearly always solder the connections ot otherwise i put them in a vise 😬 to be sure i have a solid connection. If you want to solder you can dip the copper and the connector in soldering paste before you put the solder on this makes it far more easy to get a proper finish. I also put some solder on the wire before i put it into the connector. I know it's time consuming but i never had an electrical fault in 12 years of rallying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 I've soldered the wires which make it go, the rest I can live with if they fall off. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Mem No 2166, the full story here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe 90 Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 You should not add solder to crimps as you will make them less reliable. Unless you get all the flux off, the joint will corrode. The solder will also make the wire brittle, causing it to fail when it experiences a lot of vibration. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,000 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 21 Sept Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harold Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Practice makes perfect. With soldering also, a good / firm mechanical joint then solder with correct temperature iron do not cook joint ,solder should flow instantly and form a meniscus around the joint. Multistrand wire can be used to help negate vibration but in any case leave some slack. A heat sink can be used to protect components . These comments should be read along with advice on crimping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 you need to decide which terminals you're using before getting the correct tool.I assume that this mainly refers to the difference between pre-insulated and non-insulated terminals? When would you use one as opposed to another? Lobbying Caterham for a new badge.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Ferrino i would avoid the typical blue all in one crimp items and go for the metal only crimp items with separate insulation Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Cheers Mark . Think I'll invest in a ratchet crimper for non-insulated terminals. Lobbying Caterham for a new badge.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Newman Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Soldered wires directly to the switch with heat shrink if you want a quick lesson in soldering it and fancy a blat my way can fix it in a few minutes a good soldered and heat shrunk joint wont fail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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