Ferrino Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 Taking the chassis to Arch for blast/re-coat/re-skin next week and was wondering which mods/extras might be useful? It's an '89 Live Axle which I'm putting an R1 into. *arrowright*I am already having a few tweaks to the front suspension so that I can fit a true top wishbone and have the option to fit widetrack in future, and I may have some extra bracing put in for new engine. Depending on whether the filter fits under the bonnet or not, I may see if I can get a custom set of louvres on my bonnet, a la 'Blade. Hoping to get all the interior and engine bay panels powdercoated, and have a stash of bits to also go in for blasting/coating (eg. wishbones, radius arms, a-frame....) *arrowright*I'm changing from cloth seats (with long steel supports) to Tilletts and was thinking of bolting them directly to the floor - didn't someone say that Arch made a mod whereby they placed a supporting bar/strip under the floor? Is this an alternative to the channel strips? *arrowright*Can Arch re-bush the suspension parts after coating? *arrowright*I'm going aeroscreen again, but not sure if I want it to be interchangeable or not - if I spec the scuttle as 'aeroscreen only' (ie. no holes for washers/stanchions etc.) I guess I can make the relevant holes myself in future, or just take scuttle to Arch in future? *arrowright*Errr, am I meant to bring along my old chassis number plate? Think it's still stuck to the piece of ali in my garage loft...... Cheers Lobbying Caterham for a new badge.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 Ferrino I'm doing much the same with Arch (not fititng a bike engine though) I'm also having interior and engine bay powder coated and taking all wishbones, A frame etc to be refinished and Bruce has told me he can re bush them all as well (plus Diff mount bushes) I'm having lowered floors so not sure about the seat supports or whether the honeycomb inlay piece will fit As far as Aeroscreen I'd do what you suggest and go for a plain one I didn't ask about the Chassis plate, can't see a reason why they would need it, I will of course be refititng it after the work is done Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 Hi, diff upgrade is a good idea. I also had thicker floor installed and bulkhead. Watts linkage fittings are easy to do as well - you may want them later Also the fixing points for roll-cage, bars etc are an easy-do whilst the sides are off. Have a chat with Bruce, they are very pragmatic and will give you sound advice, some mods you may never need. Need to take a brave pill and decide on push-rod suspension or not. Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 PS, the chassis should have an ID number stamped on it already. For mine 1990 de-dion it was on the chassis tube under the scuttle on the near side This should be fine. Mine went up there without the engine bay plate Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 PS, the chassis should have an ID number stamped on it already. For mine 1990 de-dion it was on the chassis tube under the scuttle on the near side This should be fine. Mine went up there without the engine bay plate Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 That was some time ago though Anthony *eek* Support the 7 Society...... Ehhh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 Had mine done earlier this year (they made a great job of it). Arch replace all of the bushes, I did like Mark is doing, took my A frame, trailing arms, wish bones, ARB etc for them to re coat and they put all new bushes in as the baking knackers the old ones. You don’t need a chassis plate as that only has the CC chassis number, Arch stamp the year of manufacture and their production number on the offside just in front of where the roll bar attaches (I think it’s the mounting point for the damper on live axle cars. Whilst Arch cut the holes in the scuttle for the wipers and washers, they don’t drill holes for the screen mounts. If your not going to refit the heater you can do without the cut out’s. My recommendations would be for powder coated engine bay and removal of spare wheel carrier so the new skin can be made without the two cut outs at the rear. Guy IT'S MANGO AND THAT'S THE END OF THE MATTER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted December 1, 2004 Author Share Posted December 1, 2004 Thanks chaps. Yes, I do have the info stamped just next to where the stem of the rear o/s damper comes through the top of the chassis. My plan is to go aeroscreen-only, so I'd prefer it if no holes are made for washer motor, stanchions etc. - I guess you can spec this. (However, if I go for the RiF screen I will need at least the forward stanchion hole) Will definitely be removing the spare wheel carrier - ie. cutting off the 2 stubs I have and having a nice uncut rear skin I'm hoping to use a petty strut with my new FIA bar, so will probably get a hole cut in the side panel to expose the thread it screws into (I presume this is how it is done?). Lobbying Caterham for a new badge.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsb Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 Hi, To show my ignorance who are Arch and where are they based? Out of interest how much for a chassis blast re powder coat re skin and spray? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 Ferrino Bruce will ask you about cutting and drilling, ie exhaust, bonnet etc., just tell him you don’t want the wiper holes etc cut. I have a RIF A/S and it uses the front screen mount hole only, best to drill this yourself when you fit the A/S so you can get the angle of the screen right, (easy but nerve racking). Petty strut hole is easy to drill out yourself as Arch do not pop rivet the interior panels along the top edge. (Bruce will provide a bag of black rivets and the edge piping), this is to allow you to fit the sill protectors (use RIF carbon ones) and for the spray shop to spray to an edge. You should bear in mind that you will also have to drill and fit all popper studs yourself, and that takes courage *eek* Guy IT'S MANGO AND THAT'S THE END OF THE MATTER Edited to say they do drill the holes for the interior panels so all you need to do is re rivit. Edited by - Guy Lowe on 1 Dec 2004 16:33:16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 Madball Arch are in Cambridge and build the Chassis for Caterham, they are also good for any repairs you may need. Approx cost for sandblast, powdercoat and reskin is £1,800 plus VAT, Respray is £700 + VAT Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dino ferrana Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 Madball- Arch Motors are the manufacturers of the Seven chassis. I say Seven as they made it in the Lotus days as well. They are based in Huntingdon. They do all of the accident repair, re-powder coating and renpanelling for Caterham. THey can also do all kinds of upgrades to the structure of the Seven chassis. In short they are the only people to let loose on your seven chassis! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 Don't think they do *all* the accident repairs these days - there were a few threads this year suggesting CC do a certain amount themselves - depending on severity etc. Project Scope-Creep is underway... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsb Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 Thanks for the replies, have Arch got a web address? I have just got my first caterham 1.6 superlight 1997, should I consider any mods or just leave well alone as the car seems great and well set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 here Guy IT'S MANGO AND THAT'S THE END OF THE MATTER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted December 1, 2004 Author Share Posted December 1, 2004 You should bear in mind that you will also have to drill and fit all popper studs yourselfOh balls - I was dreading you were going to say that! How about the holes in the side-skin for the rear wing fixings, I guess they will be done? Lobbying Caterham for a new badge.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted December 1, 2004 Support Team Share Posted December 1, 2004 Holes for wings - 'fraid not. If you have drilled wings then you can use them as template. I believe Caterham have a template so I was going to see if I could get a copy of that. Yellow SL #32 For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 Ferrino How about the holes in the side-skin for the rear wing fixings Yep, you will also need to get hold of some rivnut pliers (thanks Brent) for the front 4 wheel arch bolts on each side. I had a template (thanks Biffo) buy did not use it. Instead I lined up the two ends by comparing with photo's of other cars and marked up the holes from my old arch's, if your fitting new arch’s you will have to use a template. Take a bit of advice here, use nylon bolts as in the event of a prang they will shear rather than causing damage to the aluminium skin. Guy IT'S MANGO AND THAT'S THE END OF THE MATTER Edited by - Guy Lowe on 2 Dec 2004 08:22:39 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted December 1, 2004 Share Posted December 1, 2004 Thanks Pete, Point was not lost...nearly two years in January ! Now that is what you call scope creep...all because I got side tracked with roller barrels 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KayTee Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Did anyone mention Nylon bolts ? 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted December 4, 2004 Author Share Posted December 4, 2004 Must remember the nylon bolts - thanks. Mark - how come you are going for the lowered floor - is this to improve safety WRT helmet clearing the FIA bar 'line'? If so, how tall are you? And is it much more expensive than a standard floor when reskinning? Anyone know anything about the 'strut' to support Tillett seats? Lobbying Caterham for a new badge.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted December 4, 2004 Share Posted December 4, 2004 Kaytee E-mail on it's way Ferrino They are about £200 for the pair form Arch I think, the price Bruce gave was in with some other bits. I'm going of it as you say ot lower my head height below the FIA bar, I'm 6' and have alu protection o nthe floor so I am always too high even for my elbow to fit in the door recess I thought of having my upper arm lengthened but they worlk OK in Angus's car so I reckon it's a car problem 😬 Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted December 21, 2004 Author Share Posted December 21, 2004 Quick update: went to Arch last week & decided to go for powder-coated interior and engine bay (inc. interior face of side skins). Went for steel rivets along the rear of the floor pans along with the standard channels to support the Tilletts, under advice from Bruce. Hoping to have a sort of safety hoop bolted at the rear of the tunnel, in case the rear section of the prop makes a bid for freedom (my early chassis isn't exactly overwhelmed with attachment points for such structures though). A few redundant brackets chopped off here and there (old rad fan brackets and rad mount brackets), and a modified lower front pickup in case I want to go widetrack in the future. Managed to surprise Bruce (perhaps not in a +ve way) by turning up with the engine and prop in situ and then whipping it out in a jiffy, courtesy of the engine cradle! Oh, and I finally found out what that bizarre bracket at the rear n/s of the chassis is - some sort of attachment point for the thingy which holds the rear exit exhaust up! Lobbying Caterham for a new badge.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irrelevant Posted December 21, 2004 Share Posted December 21, 2004 bizarre bracket at the rear n/s of the chassis Ta - mine's coming off then....... No longer after a 3.14 diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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