Ozzy Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 Some of the tubular sections underneath could do with a bit of tidying up. Presumibly smooth hammerite is ok once I've rubbed it back, and which finish matches best. Is it Matt or Satin black. Thanks in anticipation. Oz Still Shaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 We used black Smoothrite with good results - satin IMO. HUGE UPDATE ALMOST WITH VIDEO here 70,000miles in 3 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 Nah, ditch hammerite. POR15 is the stuff (do a search in techtalk). It is (allegedly) much more chip-resistant than hammerite, but is more expensive, harder to source (mail-order basically) and is not UV-stable (not an issue under the car). It has certainly worked very well on the leading edge of my side-impact bar (gets peppered by stones etc. from the front wheel - hence the need to touch up where the powder-coat has been peened off). The only word of warning relates to getting the stuff on anything you don't want it to (IYSWIM) - if it dries on your skin, it takes a reassuringly long time for it to wear off. Keep BC free and open for ALL. Membership No. 43xx Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted November 17, 2004 Support Team Share Posted November 17, 2004 for POR 15. Available from Frost Auto Restoration - product page here. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LazerBrain Posted November 17, 2004 Share Posted November 17, 2004 Any idea how much POR 15 would be needed to cover the rear A frame and chassis tubes from the rear of the cockpit to the back of the car?hijack> cheers, Darren. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pelico Posted November 17, 2004 Share Posted November 17, 2004 Darren, A little goes a long way. A small tin from Frosts would almost certainly do. The instructions suggest decant a little from the tin and reseal the tin quickly. I always seem to over judge how much I need and have plenty left over. I also bought the expensive solvent as a brush cleaner, to be honest I would save the money and use a cheap brush and throw away. Do use gloves though. The stuff sticks to everything. Good luck, Peter Edited by - Pelico on 17 Nov 2004 09:41:10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted November 17, 2004 Share Posted November 17, 2004 Yup - I always seem to decant too much and end up hunting around the garden/shed for rusty things to paint black... I go the throwaway-brush route - and also bought a stack of disposable plastic glasses to hold the stuff in whilst working (oh! and plastic spoons for stirring/decanting...) Keep BC free and open for ALL. Membership No. 43xx Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LazerBrain Posted November 17, 2004 Share Posted November 17, 2004 Ah - so raiding the office coffee supplies for plastic beakers and spoons could be useful 🤔 Thanks Peter - I ordered some POR 15 from Frosts this morning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted November 17, 2004 Share Posted November 17, 2004 Yup. It really isn't worth the effort of trying to clean anything other than skin after POR15 gets on it. Take your watch off, get the decorating clothes out, don't do the work on your driveway... Keep BC free and open for ALL. Membership No. 43xx Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted November 17, 2004 Share Posted November 17, 2004 Skin - talking of which... ...less than perfectly ideal (but it was to hand...) I sprayed my hands with WD40 (sharpish) last time I got some POR on myself and rubbed it in - then finished off with Swarfega/whatever. You could do a lot worse. Keep BC free and open for ALL. Membership No. 43xx Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS CLARK Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 While doing the rear 'A' frame etc in POR 15 last time (only time!) I accidently got some on the rear, angled ali bulkhead. Knowing what a pain it is to get off, I painted a bit more to get the rest off the brush and 'tidy it up' having not prepped the ali at all. I supposed it would come straight off in the first puddle but it has been there two years + and shows no singns of flaking, or doing anything other than protecting the lower bulkhead section. As an aside, I cleaned up the radius arms and did an experiment with properly applied Hammerite Smooth and did the other in POR 15. One is now going rusty again while the other looks basically brand new. Care to guess which is which? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 The left one? 😬 ok - I am convinced - guess I'll try that POR15 stuff next. HUGE UPDATE ALMOST WITH VIDEO here 70,000miles in 3 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luddites7 Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 Do you just paint this Por15 straight on or is there a recommended undercoat to use first - i.e. the tie-primer shown on the same web page above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted November 18, 2004 Support Team Share Posted November 18, 2004 You use POR15 on the bare metal/rust. If the area is likley to be exposed to sunlight(UV) much then paint over with Chassis Coat - also available from Frosts - or a paint of your choice. This is because POR15 discolours with exposure to UV. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 They do recommend using a degreaser if the metal is likely to be contaminated or is not actually rusty - but they do warn that some degreasers can leave a (paraffin based?) film that POR15 won't like. Personally, I've just given any metal I want to POR15 a light rub with wire-wool (or whatever) to remove any loose rust/metal/crud and paint away... Keep BC free and open for ALL. Membership No. 43xx Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 I've used good old fashioned coach paint. Hammerite dries to a hard shell and chips off. Coach paint stays soft so doesn't. POR15 is probably better though. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Mem No 2166, the full story here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted November 19, 2004 Share Posted November 19, 2004 Top Tip 😬 after you ahve painted the chassis tubes and they have hardend . Place strips of 1" satin black electrical tap along each of the leading faces of the tubes on the front wishbones and rear suspension . This dramatically reduces stone chips and hence reduces corrosion Replace the tape every 2 years Dave C7 TOP Powered by Hellier Performance 😬 Now updated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyR Posted November 19, 2004 Share Posted November 19, 2004 Dave, But how much weight does the tape add 😬 TonyR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted November 19, 2004 Share Posted November 19, 2004 6g But hey .......... it all adds up 😬 C7 TOP Powered by Hellier Performance 😬 Now updated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now