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Engine is out - what work should I do on it?


Shaun_E

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Chassis goes to Arch on Saturday so I now have a pile of bits and an engine (K-series 1600SS) on a stand. While I have the engine out I thought I may as well do whatever maintenance is required. The engine has done nearly 30k miles and a few track days. Sadly my budget doesn't extend to dropping it off in Milton Keynes for a little "re-work" but I do want to reduce the likelihood of having to take the engine out again in the near future and also do any work that is just easier with engine out.

Thoughts so far are:

1. I will of course replace the CRB even thought it looks in good condition.

2. Clutch - how do I tell if it needs replacing? I'm pretty sure it's an AP item (car is a Superlight)- is there a measurement that will give me a clue?

3. Cambelt - when are these normally changed? It looks like it will be easier to do with engine out. Do I need a cam locking tool (and anything else)?

4. Hoses - I want to replace all the hoses with Silicon ones. I already have the set of 3 from Caterham but need to replace the others. Car has a heater and is wet sump - what hoses do I need (diameter/length)?

5. Dry sump - I am very tempted to fit a dry sump. If I do it will be the Caterham one - I know there are alternatives but I want to stay standard(ish!). Is this an easy job to do? I am not sure my budget will stretch to it but if it is truly a DIY job then I will definitely consider it.

6. New alternator belt

 

Anything else I should do?

 

Cheers,

Shaun

 

Yellow SL *cool* #32

 

Edited by - Shaun_E on 2 Nov 2004 08:56:21

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Resisting the temptation to say "change the HG" *tongue* because someone is bound to. I'd do the cambelt, certainly. You need to buy/make a tool. The alty belt has to come off to do this, may as well replace it.

 

I think a DS is a DIY proposition. You need to mod the oil pickup pipe and the rest is fairly easy. The scav pump runs off the (redundant) PAS pump pulley and mechanism. CC will sell you all the bits, or Pace. The most expensive bit is the CC tank/bellhousing at £700, obviously others are cheaper, and the DS pan at £200 which may or may not come with a baffle plate. Don't overlook the prices of hoses (if you want Aeroquip) and pump.

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The Caterham website lists the dry sump "kit" for £1700 - does anyone know if this includes everything you need?

Regarding cam lock tool - is this something I can buy in Halfords? I don't have the resources (or skills) to make one.

 

Yellow SL *cool* #32

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The DS system doesn't use the old pick-up pipe - it is raplaced with a sleeve fitted with 2 rubber o-rings that connects the new sump to the block. All the parts are supplied in the Caterham DS kit.

 

Stu.

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I suggest you get DVA to fit a set of verniers and change the cambelt for you as the standard pulleys do not give optimum cam timing. Everyone who has gone this route have experienced a definite improvement in performance especially in mid range torque improving the cars driveability.

 

Mark D

Su77on Se7ens *cool*

Considering my options for 2005

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Stu - thanks.

OK more questions.

If I fit a DS then is it worth keeping the Apollo? Is aeration of the oil less of a problem? Also I have fitted a Laminova oil cooler - is it worth keeping that?

As you get a new sump then I could sell my existing wet sump pan as well. This could almost be self funding 😬 - well at least be less expensive.

paulyb - cheers. My local halfords stock a load of the Draper specialist parts so might have one. Failing that I'm sure one of Slough's many auto factors will have one.

 

Yellow SL *cool* #32

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Shaun

 

The dry sump kit will probably reduce the oil temperature quite noticeably, Slarty told me recently that he struggles to get the temp above 80°C on his R400, you may want to keep the Laminova to heat the oil up? This is because the oil doesn't get whipped by the crank => more power.

 

The R500 (i.e. the only dry sump K series car I've seen with an apollo) has a different Appollo to the rest, I'm not sure why. I dont think the revs on either the SS or SLR3/400s will give raise to the same aeration problems (aeration is significantly affected by rpm) that the R500 may suffer. Be worth a call to Caterham, but I think the conclusion will be you wont need it any more. By the way you can sell your bellhousing too (£££) to recoup the DS cost.

 

BC

 

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Sounding more attractive all the time. Sell bell housing, sump and apollo (total new cost about £700) but keep Laminova. I'll work this into the budget and see what happens!.

 

OK anyone any ideas on deciding whether to replace the clutch? I foundthis thread with link but how do I know what clutch I have and what to check? The clutch looks like the one on this page so I guess is the normal Caterham AP clutch. I assume this is a single plate clutch and I should measure the thickness as described here but what type of clutch is it? Cerametallic, bonded paddle or sintered?

 

Yellow SL *cool* #32

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More to the point Shaun, if you dropped the engine off at Milton Keynes, could you ever convince Gill that all you had changed were the verniers 😬

 

Michael.

 

Edited by - Mcalvert on 2 Nov 2004 16:17:47

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Shaun I'll whisper this so Gill doesn't hear.

 

We could alway put the engine on my trailer on Saturday when we take your chassis to Arch and drop it off in MK on the way back. Could just say its being sent away to be cleaned.

 

Alan and his Yellow and Green BDR.

 

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Maybe I've been a bit harsh on this engine thing!

 

After all, it is his money and really it's up to him how he spends it.

If he'd rather spend it on an engine upgrade, than on his rather lovely, patient and understanding wife, that's up to him *biggrin*.

 

Gill

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