frankyknuckles Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 I'm just about to remove the engine, I have got everything disconnected, coolant drained, oil drained, electrics / exhaust disconnected etc. But, I have a few problems. People have suggested that a length of wood underneath the bellhousing will prevent it dropping when the engine is removed (I am not removing the bellhousing or gearbox). Where do you put this bit of wood? the bellhousing drops below the chassis rails, so I cannot see how a straight bit of wood will fit? When I remove the fuel return pipe off the end of the fuel rail, petrol pours out of the pipe at quite a fast rate (no petrol comes out of the fuel rail). I left it for about 10 seconds and it filled a large glass to the top. I have re-connected it. What do I do? I think I have about 30 litres in the tank. Will it eventually stop ? How much should come out? I have not disconnected the main fuel line let, will I get the same problem? If you could point me in the right direction with the above, I can get the engine out tomorrow www.R300.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 Use a jack underneath the bellhousing and once you've pulled the engine forward enough you can thread wire or string through the bolt holes and tie it up to the chassis. But use wire that is insulated so you don't scratch things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 Golf tees are good for blocking petrol pipes................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 Be carefull. It'll take a little bit of force to break the bellhousing from the locating dowels and primry shaft from crank. That means there'll be a fair bit of shoving and pulling. Make sure you support the g/box well. A trolley jack is about the best or a coupl of breeze blocks with wood on top. When your remove the return line add a small section of rubber hose over the top of the retun line and feed the rubber hose upwards. This will stop the fuel falling out under gravity. Disconnect the fuel supply feed pipe that connects to the fuel rail at the fuel rail end. Using a WD40 lid catch th fuel that remains in the fuel rail. Then tie the flexible pipe upwards to stop leaks. Emerald Isle's 1st SV 148lbft @ 6091rpm and 182bhp @ 6900rpm of cheese power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 And cover the chassis tubes in front of the engine with rags or similar so that when the engine/bellhousing separate and the engine swings forward it doesn't make a mess of the tubes etc. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankyknuckles Posted October 29, 2004 Author Share Posted October 29, 2004 So the fuel return pipe will leak under gravity becasue there is petrol in the tank. Correct ? and I need to bung it up and tie it pointing upwards so the top of the pipe is above the petrol tank level ? The main fuel pipe will not spill as much petrol (but will spill some) so catch what does come out in a container. Correct ? You are also saying that when disconnecting the fuel feed, disconnect if from the fuel rail (two bolts I think). Why not just unscrew it from the solid pipe that appears from under the tansmission tunnel? In a previous thread, people suggested that it was alot easier to just remove the engine minus bellhousing and gearbox. From what you guys are saying, I may as well remove the whole assembly in one (ie, reverse of the install procedure). Thanks www.R300.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 Franky, Must say my preference is for both engine/gearbox out in one but then I've never tried just engine out. I done the former enough times now that I can't see splitting the two being any quicker really. Plus given the amount of effort it took me to separate the engine/gearbox when out of the car I could imagine it being very hard with them both in the car. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankyknuckles Posted October 29, 2004 Author Share Posted October 29, 2004 so what's the trick for getting them apart when they are out of the car? ideally, I would like to split them and put the engine on a stand. www.R300.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted October 29, 2004 Support Team Share Posted October 29, 2004 If you take the gearbox out as well then make sure you have a large bowl to catch the gearbox oil. I think this would be easier than trying to split the engine and gearbox in-situ. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 Dave when in car undo all the bolts etc but leave clutch cable connected, when ready to remove engine press clutch pedal this will push the engine off the box If it's outside the car it's easy just undo the connecting bolts then they can easily be separated, if need be use a screwdriver just ot start it off btw the fuel return will not empty the tank, it's only what's in the pipe back to the tank, for peace of mind tie it up as high as possible and if you want you can plug it with a M6 bolt or golf tee as suggested! Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RESOLVIWOLF Posted October 29, 2004 Share Posted October 29, 2004 removing the engine ? i thought you were selling teh whole car ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankyknuckles Posted October 30, 2004 Author Share Posted October 30, 2004 Thanks everyone. I used a ratchet strap to hold the bellhousing up. Worked a treat, engine is out and all is sorted www.R300.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted October 30, 2004 Share Posted October 30, 2004 So what method worked for separating the engine/g'box. Was it the press the clutch one? Interested to know for future reference. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankyknuckles Posted October 30, 2004 Author Share Posted October 30, 2004 just a little bit of rocking and pulling, then when there was a large enough gap, a lage screwdriver was used, very gently just to seperate engine and bellhousing completely. But, my car is only 7 months old, so nothing has had time to seize and the surfaces were like new when I pulled them appart. I will add copaslip to the dowels and surfaces when I put the engine back in. www.R300.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted October 30, 2004 Share Posted October 30, 2004 That sounds like it was nice and easy then. Definitely coppaslip when goingback together. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now