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Fitting an oil cooler on with an Apollo installed


Brad Tipp

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Final news on fitting and results

 

O.K. So here is the post I promised on how to do it and what the results were.

If you have an Anti Cavitation Tank (Apollo) fitted then the fittings on it are 1/2 inch BSP. Make sure you buy an oil cooler with 1/2 inch BSP fittings as well. I know that sounds obvious, but the oil cooler Caterham sell for the dry sump K series is 5/8 BSP!!

 

You may as well buy the cooler from your local supplier. Its a 10 row 235mm size one with 1/2 inch BSP (in case you weren’t paying attention earlier). But you will need the "P" clips from Caterham to attach it to the front chassis rail.

You will then need one 1/2 inch BSP to 1/2 inch BSP oil pipe of approximately 60cm length. I had a 90 degree end on the oil cooler, as it routes it slightly better, and a straight on the Apollo end.

 

I disconnected the top hose (return) from the Apollo and it reaches to the left hand(looking at the car from the front)/offside oil cooler connection. You then use the new hose to connect the right hand side to the top of the Apollo.

 

I added about 1ltr of oil and my pressures are as follows.

 

4 bar at cold idle.

2 bar at warm idle.

4 bar at warm load.

 

Does it work?

 

Yes it appears to. I took the car for a thrash last night, desperately trying to avoid the police, and find open roads. I could only manage to wind the oil temp up to 90 degrees despite my best efforts. Well less than the 110 I could push it to before. However I still need to be sure I haven't put too much oil in, and test it during the day in HOT conditions.

 

I now have two very nice 5/8 inch braided hoses for a dry sump system for sale as well.

 

 

 

 

 

T 1 PPB - Superlight

 

"Well yes officer i'm not arguing, it's just that [insert excuse here]..."

 

Edited by - brad tipp on 23 Aug 2001 15:10:47

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Ahh three last things.

 

1. Don't forget to tighten ALL the connections back up.

 

2. You will need the ali panel that comes with the oil cooler kit from caterham and the template for cutting out the bottom of the nose cone.

 

3. Does anyone know a good way to get oil off a gravel drive :-( before HID notices or the cat dies from eating it?

 

T 1 PPB - Superlight

 

"Well yes officer i'm not arguing, it's just that [insert excuse here]..."

 

Edited by - brad tipp on 24 Aug 2001 15:34:36

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I was getting a reading of 120c at 4000rpm on the M57 today, it took about 10 miles at 3000rpm for the temp to fall and then it was at 90 - 95... I think I need to fit the cooler!

 

So where does it sit? Does it involve body mods????????

 

I always thought they went behind the rad???

 

Ta

 

Simon.

 

X777CAT

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Simon,

The oil cooler does sit behind the rad above the chassis link. You will need to cut an oval hole in the underside of the nose cone to allow the air to channel up to it. I had to buy a dremmel and very carefully cut the hole out.

You will alos need to make two cut outs in the leading edge of the underside of the node cone to allow the nose to fit snug against the chassis, but allow for the new P links on the chassis bar that hold the oil cooler on.

 

I hope that makes sense, if you need me to take some pics and mail them to you let me know.

 

In the hot weather yesterday i couldn't get the temp over about 90!! I does work.

 

Lastly I filled the oil with the engine running so that it comes onto the bottom of the dip stick, but not as high as the hatched section.

 

This gives me 4 bar cold, and then 4 bar hot under load and 2 bar at idle.

 

T 1 PPB - Superlight

 

"Well yes officer i'm not arguing, it's just that [insert excuse here]..."

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Simon,

 

My oil cooler is mounted in front of the radiator (ie at the very front of the car just behind the '7' grill)

 

It is mounted with the oil cooler mounting brackets from caterham and didnt need any modification to any body parts etc.

 

The only problem is ( as Roger King has noted in previous threads about oil coolers) that the oil cooler now blocks some air from the radiator, so it runs a few degrees hotter than it used to (water temp), doesent seem to be a problem though, it is only a couple of degrees.

 

Julian

 

PS - have ordered an adjustable fan switch because my replacement broke V soon after fitting it.

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Simon I'll take some pics and mail them tomorrow.

 

I have a CF nose cone and it's easy to cut with a Dremel, and still make a good job of it, as you'll see from the pics.

 

T 1 PPB - Superlight

 

"Well yes officer i'm not arguing, it's just that [insert excuse here]..."

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  • 6 months later...

Brad,

 

I'm about to instal an oil cooler on my 1.8SS (it has an Apollo already) in time for the start of the (that is, my ) trackday season.smile.gifsmile.gif So, I've been doing a little research....

 

Could you please answer a few questions?

 

1. In your 23Aug01 post, you said:

I disconnected the top hose (return) from the Apollo and it reaches to the left hand(looking at the car from the front)/offside oil cooler connection. You then use the new hose to connect the right hand side to the top of the Apollo.


 

Are you sure that's the right way round? Surely, the top hose is the feed from the sandwich plate? (At least, it is on my Apollo.) Presumably the cooler goes in the return half of the circuit?

 

2. Does your cooler have any sort of thermostat, or does it "cool" all the time? And if the latter, does it matter?

 

3. You said you got your cooler from Caterham, but with the wrong hoses (I think). Where did you go for the correct hoses?

 

JV

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John,

I'm at work at the mo so I can't check that the top hose is the return. However I don't think it makes any difference whre you put the cooler.

My cooler doesn't have any sort of thermostat, but that doesn't seem to be a problem. It does take longer to warm up on a cold day though, so care needs to be exercised before the temp comes up.

The hoses came from DT. Just measure the required length and they make then up with swaged(?) ends in a few days. The hoses Caterham gave me were too big as they were for a dry sump car.

 

Let me know if there is anything else I can do to help.

 

T 1 PPB - Superlight

 

"Well yes officer I'm not arguing, it's just that [insert excuse here]..."

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I get asked fairly often what bits I used to fit the anti flow back valve in the 'Apollo' tank top line (rather like PC has fitted, thanks Peter) so here goes.

 

The parts came from 'Think Automotive', 292 Worton Road, Isleworth, Middlesex TW7 6EL. Tel:- 020 8568 1172. Fax:- 020 8847 5338. E-mail:- accounts@thinkauto.co.uk

 

Right these are the bits I used. I'm sure you can get some cheaper valves etc, but this set-up definitely works and gives instant oil pressure readingsthumbsup.gif

 

MFA7-3-4 Ali M/F ST -3JIC X -4JIC

HETF97-3 -3JIC 90*FITTING FOR -3TFE

FBM2099 ALLOY BULKHEAD NUT -4JIC

CVF7-4 ONE WAY VALVE FLAP -4JIC

Fitting is pretty straightforward, but I can answer questions if need be.

 

Cost was about 50 ukp; not cheap, but my peace of mind thought it worth it!

If you DO decide to get parts then advise 'Think Automotive' that you are a Lotus Seven Club member (you are aren't you?) and they will give a 33.3% discount. Price above includes said discount by the way!

They also do a good range of 'Laminova' oil/water coolers with the same discount deal price!!!

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Thanks, Chris. You must be a mindreader as my next upgrade was exactly that! I happened to call in at Think Automotive about two months ago, but the guy I spoke to didn't seem too clear on what it was I really needed. You've solved my dilemma perfectly.

 

JV

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Chris,

I forgot to ask:

1. I recognise the flap-valve p/n, but what are the other parts on your list?

2. Did you insert the valve at the camcover end? If so, did you need any type of adapter to cater for different thread sizes, union widths etc? (Or is that what the other parts are for?)

 

Regards,

John

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