Support Team Shaun_E Posted October 11, 2004 Support Team Share Posted October 11, 2004 Having got the engine out of the car I want to bolt it to the Clarke engine stand I bought from Machine Mart. Gearbox is off but the clutch cover gets in the way. Has anyone used this type of stand (it has 4 arms that can be moved in slots on the stand to give a universal fit) to mount a K-series engine? Any tips gratefully received. Will I have to take the clutch and flywheel off? If so anyone got a link to some instructions? Shaun Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 Can't speak for the K, but I mounted my Toyota engine on one of these and had to remove the clutch & flywheel in order to get enough clearance. Not such a big deal - I just marked with paint so that I could install the clutch and flywheel in exactly the same positions upon reassembly. A Haynes manual should have instructions. Alternative is to mount the engine sideways on (ie. through the engine mount holes) - I think others have done this? Lobbying Caterham for a new badge.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 Shaun yes clutch (not flywheel from memory) does get in the way ☹️ refititng is easy but you need to align the clutch plate on refitting, I have the tool for this if you want to borrow it Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slipper man Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 Forget the arms - I never found a way of using them. I drilled holes in the back plate to match the bolt holes where the alternator fits. Using those holes and some others that are allready in the block, you can strip the entire engine right down to the block Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted October 11, 2004 Author Support Team Share Posted October 11, 2004 Thanks folks. I do need to replace the clutch so it has to come off at some time - now's as good a time as any. Is it straightforward? I don't have a Haynes manual - should I get one (and which one)? Mark - when I come to put the new clutch in then yes please to borrowing the tool. Keith - neat idea and I can see the advantages but as I have to take the clutch off anyway I'll try that route first. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irrelevant Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 Get some 5" bolts and loads of washers/nuts to use as spacers. Bolt the stand to the engine when the engine's suspended .....saves loads of hastle. Accumulating bits for the Super-Busa. . . Anyone got a spare 3.14 diff??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave McCulloch Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 Shaun I've currently got my K series suspended on an engine stand without removing flywheel or clutch. I used 4 long threaded studs screwed into four holes on the exhaust side of the engine - there are four which are on the same "plane". I screwed the studs in using a pair of nuts locked against one another (but not too tight), then mounted the engine stand "head" (ie the bit with the four arms) and then hoisted the whole thing onto the engine stand. If you want a piccie, let me know and I can send you one. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 Shaun clutch is easy, undo the 6 bolts holding it on and pull it off by hand. Caterham's the place to get a new one, I think they only sell the complete cover and plate now, also change the clutch release bearing while you are at it Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 You'll need to remove the flywheel to fit the lightened one anyway 😬 Lobbying Caterham for a new badge.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted October 11, 2004 Author Support Team Share Posted October 11, 2004 Thanks for your replies. I'll take the clutch off anyway but will try the side mounting as that will make changing the clutch easier. Dave YHM. Ferrino - lightened flywheel already there but you should see the rest of the budget 😬. It's a real shame there are these carbon manufacturers competing so hard to be best product/best price . Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted October 12, 2004 Leadership Team Share Posted October 12, 2004 If you're planning to remove the front crank pulley, mount the engine on the stand in the usual manner without the flywheel in place. When you come to reassemble everything at the front of the engine the pulley bolt will need torquing to 200Nm (IIRC).The easiest way to stop things turning when tightening the front bolt is to use a length of steel bolted to the back of the crank via the flywheel mounting holes - locked from turning against the arms of the engine stand. I got this trick from Dave Andrews Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave McCulloch Posted October 12, 2004 Share Posted October 12, 2004 Shaun Just seen your "YHM" above - I can't access webmail from work! I'll send a pic tonight. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PACR Posted October 12, 2004 Share Posted October 12, 2004 I did the very same thing just a few months ago. I used some studding and lots of nuts (20 or so + penny and normal washers. Pretty cheap from Focus etc)). I think it was 12 mm but check first. 2 into the top of the block (into bellhousing holes) and two through the bearing ladder. Use the nuts to lock stud against arms and position enging for clearance. I think using a fixing point on the side is a better option though. Bearing ladder is a bugger to get off with 2, foot long 12mm steel bars through it... Piers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Tim_ Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 I've currently got my K series suspended on an engine stand without removing flywheel or clutch. I used 4 long threaded studs screwed into four holes on the exhaust side of the engine - there are four which are on the same "plane". I screwed the studs in using a pair of nuts locked against one another (but not too tight), then mounted the engine stand "head" (ie the bit with the four arms) and then hoisted the whole thing onto the engine stand. If you want a piccie, let me know and I can send you one. Dragging this kicking and screaming into 2005. I've just built my Clarke engine stand and was trying to figure out the best way to mount my 1600K to it. I've removed the alternator and those threads in that area look like good candidates to me as you seem to suggest. I'll be stripping the engine completely so will need to have just the block mounted. Dave if you still have that picture I'd be really grateful to see it (tim@timskipper.net). Can someone confirm the correct size of studding I need? - Tim Caterham 7 - BMW E30 M3 - Nissan Navara Edited by - _Tim_ on 23 Aug 2005 19:22:02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Tim_ Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 Well I've got the engine on the stand now, thanks to some M10 stud and a few nuts and washers. For anyone thinking of doing the same, here is how I did it. - Tim Caterham 7 - BMW E30 M3 - Nissan Navara Follow my engine rebuild project here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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