stugrip Posted September 23, 2004 Share Posted September 23, 2004 After a hard day at brands i thought id let the front pads dissapear. I checked the fronts today, they still have plenty of mileage left on them but they fit over the inner diameter of the disk. the pads have a raised inside edge . I have filed a bevel on the pads edge closest to hub.and refitted However when i tried to bleed front calipers the bleed nipples are seized i have sprayed wd over night any suggestions? Its blue 150 bhp I like it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bare Posted September 23, 2004 Share Posted September 23, 2004 You need 2 things: a Decent quality Wrench, purpose designed for Bleeder Nipples. AND Real penetrating oil.. Not.. WD40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted September 23, 2004 Support Team Share Posted September 23, 2004 Or take it to Caterham who will snap the bleed nipple off for you and then replace the caliper ☹️. To be fair I'm sure I would have done the same but it was still a bit of a bummer. Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 23 Sep 2004 11:55:06 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stugrip Posted September 23, 2004 Author Share Posted September 23, 2004 When you say take it to Caterham you mean they will give me a new one if they snap off the nipple, Hell I had better take the whole car almost every thing underneath is rusted and its only 4 years old (i am the 3rd owner) stu Its blue 150 bhp I like it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted September 23, 2004 Support Team Share Posted September 23, 2004 'Fraid not - they charged me for the caliper. They said the nipple was too rusted to be removed. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stugrip Posted September 23, 2004 Author Share Posted September 23, 2004 I was at the factory today to buy new rad mounts mine were rusted and sheard when removing the rad. A new 4 pot sys will be my option if i dont free up existing nips, cant see the point in replacing existing calipers. My rad is being rebuilt with a new core. for a car with 20k miles and only just under 5 years old its pretty rusty. The suspension arms and antiroll bar could do with a repaint a winter job i think. stu Its blue 150 bhp I like it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted September 23, 2004 Share Posted September 23, 2004 Stu, A previous owner must have been using the car all winter with salt on the road....it's too recent to be a bad powder coat job. Either that or he lived at the seaside. If I were you I'd get to work under the car this winter with a wire brush in the drill, POR15 and underseal...or the thing will drop apart, judging by what you've already seen I'd also remove/dismantle all the suspension as well and sort that out. Paul Edited by - Paul McKenzie on 23 Sep 2004 16:45:36 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stugrip Posted September 23, 2004 Author Share Posted September 23, 2004 The chap i bought it from lived in Maidenhead, i guessed maybe he had parked it in the sea for a week. After i had bought it (July 2003) i used it until sept it then went in my mums garage till feb, it failed it MOT. I decided that a 7 specialist was needed to see it through MOT and service (all i had done was kicked the tyres when i bought it) It went to the 7 workshop in Feb for service and MOT work (track rod end, & brake light switch). 3 days later it had cost over £900.... Phew on inspection Chris found that the RH engine mount had been repaird welded. and also the fuel tank was patched, so new engine mounts and a 2nd hand tank £75 and bundles of labour . The car has definately had a dodgy history i noticed a bit of reshaping around passenger footwell so i think an impact in the past (explains engine mount)and left out to get cold or front has been rebuilt with older doner parts.......... whatever its mine now and i gotta sort it Help and advise welcolme Stu Its blue 150 bhp I like it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted September 23, 2004 Share Posted September 23, 2004 It's not difficult to sort, Stu, depending on the extent of the corrosion....just a lot of work. I'd start by getting the thing up on axle stands as high as possible and having a good mooch around to gauge the full extent of the problem. If it's not too bad and concentrated on the usual front and rear suspension and rear chassis rails, I'd just dismantle those and sort them. If it's worse I might be tempted to dismantle the whole car and go for a total chassis up rebuild . It's what you're happy with at the end of the day. My car is a '96 car from the crap powder coat era and I sorted the suspension/chassis rails out about 4 winters ago and they're fine now, but I know in another few years, I'll still want to do a total chassis up rebuild, just to reward myself with anew car 😬 Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Woods Posted September 23, 2004 Share Posted September 23, 2004 The bleed nipple seized on one of my calipers, and snapped when it was undone. It was taken to a local engineering workshop who managed to get the remains out of the caliper so that a new nipple could be fitted. Nick Red and Black 1.6K supersport visit Carrotland.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted September 23, 2004 Share Posted September 23, 2004 Give the nipples a good tap with a hammer - even as far as a good hard crack - the shock will assist in loosening the corrosion grip. Soak in penetrating oil. If they are the car, warm em up with a block torch - watch for burngin oil and brake fluid. And use a 6 point socket or ring spanner on them so you don't round the hexagon off - carefull in applying force. Apply force to loosen and crack with hammer - doesn't matte rif you burr the nipple end a touch. If you do shear them, don't bother with stud extractors - if it didn't shift before, you will probably shear the extractor of in them. I've then had success in welding a bolt to them - the extra heat assists in loosening them and a proper bolt sgives better purchase. Also had success in drilling them out carefully. And had a couple spark eroded out as a favour by engine recon place next door - but they couldn't be too sure it would work. On the other hand, I've successfuly welded them properly into the caliper permanently, drilled off sideways into caliper body and on one even drilled perfectly down the nipple so the threads cleaned up perfectly - straight throu the seat at the bottom and into the chamber!! If it shears - get a couple of exchange calipers. Gonna have to do this on my emergency, use only if really have to Pug 106 - bleed nipples in front brakes sheared the day i got it - steel nipples into alloy calipers -not good! After 2 years of abuse the fluid must be really gone - long soft pedal and the back brakes now come on after a delay after you've hit the pedal and got the fronts working . . . Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stugrip Posted September 23, 2004 Author Share Posted September 23, 2004 What are the direct replacement are they Mk2 escort? they have had 2 days of soaking and yes i am using ring spanner Its blue 150 bhp I like it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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