dry sump oil change

[sparkey]

Can anyone tell me the best way to change the oil with a dry sump system. Can it all be drained via the sump, as the tank doesn't seem to have a drain plug ? Is there any priming necessary when the new oil is put in ?

 

Also what oil would you recommend for a crossflow when racing?

 

Sparkey

[Roger King]

I'm afraid that you have to drain the tank seperately. Run the engine to warm the oil, drain the sump and disconnect the bottom hose on the oil tank. You should also drain out all the other hoses if you want to be thorough. Once this is done you can split the tank and clean it out inside.

 

This is a messy job I'm afraid. Some people opt to put a drain plug in either the tank or the bottom hose. This is fine so long as it is reliable and not vulnerable to damage.

 

Alternatively, you can use some sort of pump to extract the oil from the top of the tank. I would still recommend splitting the tank for cleaning afterwards if you do this.

 

Our preferred oil for racing a Crossflow is Mobil 1 Racing (15W/50).

 

Once the new oil is in, you should crank the engine with the spark plugs out until some pressure shows on the gauge. Sometimes you get an airlock and this won't work, so you have to loosen the oil union from the oil filter 'in' and crank until oil leaks out. Do the same with the oil filter 'out' and then with the union where the pressurized oil goes into the engine. Cranking should then produce pressure.

[sparkey]

Thanks - exactly the info I needed.

 

I don't mind if it's messy as long as I get it right.

 

Thanks again

 

Sparkey

[EFA]

If you have an external pressure and scavenge pump, you can disconnect the return to the tank, and put it into a container to collect the oil (I have a 25litre nylon drum for this)then using a set of 1/4" drive extension bars and the appropiate size allen key, all fitted into a variable speed drill, turn the pum until all oil is extracted.

 

This gets far more oil out of the system than any other method.

 

Finally a swill around the tank (if you can remove it from the car) with some petrol and the jobs done.

 

Total time on my car around 1/2 hour.

 

 

 

Fat Arn

 

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[I reply to every thread]

I used to empty mine using a Black & Decker pump that was attached to a drill. It had some warning on it about not pumping flamable liquids so I figured I'd draw the line at petrol.

Good for fish tanks as well (and canoes)

[Taran Las]

As Roger stated earlier you could use a pump. I use a brass pump which was originally purchased to remove sump oil from the engines of a boat. It makes it quick and simple to empty (well almost empty) the tank and oil cooler. The best bit is splitting the tank - oil up your nose, in your ears - best part of the job! Pump cost about £20 from a local chandlers.

[sparkey]

Thanks guys, I think I'll go for the long winded strip down approach, as it's the first time I've really touched the engine in this car, and I'd like to check how clean (or otherwise) it all is. It's actually in my Formula Ford, not my Westie, which probably will make access easier.

 

Sparkey.