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New pads on track day


JonnyS

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I am taking my Seven on a track day next Wednesday @ Castle Combe. Its the first one I have been on - can't wait!!! I just spoke to a friend who strongly advised me to take a spare set of pads (especially for the front disks), as it is more than likely I will get through my current set. My current ones are in a good state at the moment.

 

I was very surprised to hear this. I'm not going to go bezerk on the track, but he said it is more than likely I'll completely wear the pads down and then not be able to drive home (Castle Combe to London isn't a short drive).

 

Besides, even if I did take a spare set of pads, how easy a job is it to replace them on the side of the track for a mediocre mechanic such as myself?

 

FYI my Seven is a 1700 Supersprint Xflow.

 

Jonny

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Jonny,

Castle Coombe was the first trackday I did - great fun, VERY fast. Don't strain the engine. It's very tempting to keep your foot hard down on the straights, and you can hit the rev limit rather too often.

I doubt there is any need to take new pads, a Seven is not a car to wear them out very quickly, and Castle Coombe is not a track that requires extensive use of breaks.

Start gently, work up the pace. Don't worry if the world seems to be going past, just have fun.

Try and get a ride with someone who knows how its done, it can be a real eye opener. I was taken round by Barry Williams (long time racing driver including Le Mans) and while it didn't feel fast, it was, but it was very very smooth - something I spent the rest of the day trying to achieve.

 

Above all, enjoy it. Its a great buzz to get a corner right, and the grin just gets bigger.

 

Dave H

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Hi Jonny,

I think your friend is thinking of a road car (1,500+kg) such as a scoobie or Beemer that will quite readily toast a set of road pads in a day of track work, not to mention tyres.

 

But you're in a 5-600kg car that isn't nearly so proflifgate. I've done many track days (and 30+k road miles) and changed pads to try new compounds rather than because of wear (exception being a set of rears I was happy with which died at Snetterton - though I still drove home to the South Coast)

 

To change the fronts is easy - one spanner in the haynes manual - Whip off wheels remove (split)pins holding pads to caliper, remove pads, push back pistons with a screw driver,insert new pads, replace split pins, put wheel back on. Not sure about big brakes but bet they're not too dificult.

 

Rear brakes are a bit more of a chore to wind back the pistons and in general.

 

I'd be astounded if you need new pads...

 

Cheers, Simon.

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Cheers Dave/Simos.

 

I had a hunch that weight was one of the issues. In fact talking of weight, I guess it is worth removing as much as possible: spare wheel etc (except my brother who wants to accompany me weighs a mere 16 stone ;)

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Whip off wheels remove (split)pins holding pads to caliper, remove pads, push back pistons with a screw driver,insert new pads, replace split pins, put wheel back on

 

Not forgetting to pump the brake pedal a couple of times to get the pads back in close proximity to the disc.....wink.gif

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Your car = 500kg

16 stone = 100kg (ish)

 

Lets see if you notice the difference in handling...smile.gif

 

Take a set of tools, screw drivers, mole grips, pliers etc even if just to tighten something you notice is loose.

A foot pump and gauge to change your tyre pressures (you might want to add 5 psi to start and then lower them as you get them up to temp)

A a large sheet of plastic to sit on or put over the car if it rains + golf unbrella. Change of clothes in a bin liner for same.

Your RAC/GF/AA number and a mobile phone.

Location of a nearby garage 'cos you'll fill up 3 times during the day, make a note as you approach the circuit.

Collection of cable ties, spare fuses, roll of tank tape, ear plugs etc etc

 

If you are a spanner phobic it might be worth your while taking it to your local seven garage and asking them to do a spanner check for your first track session. They should torque check things like suspension bolts etc you don't normally think about. I would also get them to do an oil change unless you've done it in the last thousand or maybe two.

 

Cheers, Simon.

 

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4 years - several trackdays and 12k miles- 2 sets of pads.Don't worry about it ! Concentrate on enjoying yourself and do NOT worry about being slow- in terms of lap times a slow lap is only a few seconds more than a quick one.Its getting the last few seconds pared down which is the hard bit.If people timed cars on trackdays.Which of course they never do .

 

 

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4 years - several trackdays and 12k miles- 2 sets of pads.Don't worry about it ! Concentrate on enjoying yourself and do NOT worry about being slow- in terms of lap times a slow lap is only a few seconds more than a quick one.Its getting the last few seconds pared down which is the hard bit.If people timed cars on trackdays.Which of course they never do .

 

 

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You'll be required to tape your headlights for that reason and also given a sticker to identify which group you are eligible to drive in (Bernoldi/Burti/Schmacher) which you'll probably also have to stick on the headlight or left side of bonnet - they'll tell you.

 

Get there as early as poss to put your towel on your chair (claim some space in the pit lane teeth.gif)

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I will be going to Castle Combe next Wednesday too.

 

Been to several track days there before, both bike and car as I live only about 5 miles away. It is a great circuit that rewards smooth driving. This will be my first in a C7 as I am only picking my new toy up from Caterham on Monday! I will look out for you there. Mine is yellow and black, S176 MGA.

 

Andrew

 

 

 

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To change the fronts is easy - one spanner in the haynes manual - Whip off wheels remove (split)pins holding pads to caliper, remove pads, push back pistons with a screw driver,insert new pads, replace split pins, put wheel back on. Not sure about big brakes but bet they're not too dificult.

 


 

Dont forget if you lever the pistons back the fluid has to go somewhere and that somewhere is out of the master cylinder cap. Make provision to catch the fluid or it could make an unholy mess, glycol based fluids make very effective paint strippers.

 

Oily

 

 

 

Edited by - oilyhands on 27 Jul 2001 23:36:31

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I agree with what's been said - you'll get plenty of track days out of one set of pads. Changing them is easy, just like someone else said, EXCEPT - the last time I changed my pads I ended up with a long brake pedal. The secret (according to James Whiting) is to make sure the new pads are a snug fit when you put them in. If you lever the pistons back too far so that it's easy to put the new pads in, then you might find they won't "snug up" to the disk properly when you pump the pedal for the first time. The rubber seal inside the piston tends to draw it back. After James told me this, I took more care in refitting the pads and had a beautiful solid pedal.

Anthony

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Capt C - smile.gif

 

I was assuming that a spare set of wheels and tyres may be too advanced for a beginner (Given the visibility reduction it's probably a smidge over zealous of yours truly)

 

Johnny if you do want a set of track tyres and don't have a trailer, by taking out the passenger seat you then can fit a set (4) of 13" wheels and tyres down the footwell and where the seat should be. Don't let the police see you though !

 

Cheers, Simon.

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