puremalt Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 1990 crossflow, 234 cam, wet sump, running on 10 w 40 Castrol Synthetic Clamshells...You Know It Makes Sense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveMorris Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 1700 x-flow, dry sumped, 244 cam, forged pistons etc (if that's relevant) . Unknown bhp as yet - possibly as much as 135 ? Currently no oil cooler installed and when I've checked recently oil never found to be above 87 deg C. (This after steady driving though as car still being run in.) Having read the many threads on oil I'm still in the dark so if you can get a definitive listing we can at least all start from the same point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grim Reaper Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 1.8 K series, wet sump, mechanical tappets, 210bhp @ 8,200 rpm (more available if cams are correctly timed and it's remapped) oil changed four times in the last year (two running in oil changes and two fully (pah!) synthetic changes so far. Oil temp rarely gets above 100 on the Stack gauge (sender in filter mounting). By the way, I'm getting good pressure with the 0W-30 Syner-Z but think I'll change for Pro-S anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.B Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 1.6 VX 8v - registered 2003 - totally standard classic. Road use - 3000 miles pa. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen grant Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 1.6k supersport @ 133ish bhp (i don't really know, but that's what it said on the tin) in a 1998 Roadsport 'A' with 3600 miles on the clock. Anti-Cav tank fitted. road & track. thanks, stephen Edited by - stephen grant on 2 Sep 2004 10:35:35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 2.0l normally aspirated Sierra Cosworth, solid valve lifters, wet sump, 240bhp. Track car, but on non sticky road tyres... 2.0l Vx XE Red Top, 190bhp, wet sump, hydraulic lifters. Road car.... Look forward to the FAQ, as it will be extremely gratifying to have the *right* information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conorkaby Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 1998 1.6K Superlight 133bhp, dry sump & six speed. Road & trackday use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 Having a mid life crisis! Just bought 1993 Supersprint with 1700 Crossflow engine with just less than 10,000 miles - factory built and no modifications Guess what my first question was going to be - what is correct oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirty Den Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 2003 RoadSport A Race Car 1600 SuperSport - 138bhp (hardened followers and no cat), 6 speed, Caterham dry sump 4000 miles (mixture of road and track miles) Currently using Comma Syner-Z 0w40 and looking for an alternative Cheers, Den 😬 - Self portrait - still unable to remove the smile! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warrent Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 Just an observation........ oilman seems to be doing the rounds of just about all the performance car forums on the web. He's posting exactly the same information everywhere Whilst his information is a real eye-opener and of value to all of us, and also whilst he seems to be very forthcoming with answers to questions, this guy's ultimate and very obvious aim is to sell us loads of his Silkolene synthetic oil Since it's going to be a good deal, and I'll know exactly what I'm buying (unlike Halfords "fully" synthetic), I'll be buying the stuff in bulk, but....... .........Isn't the use of this site for commercial advertising frowned upon 🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Sailor Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 I think it is frowned upon. There's a fine line here somewhere but I don't think Oilman has crossed it. He seems to be pretty objective. Certainly all the info he's provided has been very useful and will enable us to choose among, not only the oils he deals in, but others as well. Ken Sailor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted September 2, 2004 Author Share Posted September 2, 2004 Guys, Firstly thanks for all the info provided, I'll put it together this weekend and see what I can come up with, hopefully it will be of use. Super7. Thanks for your comments and I hope that I haven't crossed any lines that offend - it was not my intention to do so. Firstly, yes I do sell oil and have not hidden that fact because our expertise is based on our knowledge and experience as a seller of oils (5 diferent brands) not a manufacturer of one. I have tried all along to be objective and informative as I believe that oil companies are far too cagey about giving their "secrets" away which in any other market would not be acceptable to customers spending their hard earned cash. I believe that there is no harm in educating people with the truth, not the salesmans blurb and I sincerely hope that people here and on other performance car forums (most of which we advise on "by invitation" from the Club) have benefitted from our posts and at least can make educated buying decisions rather than believing the hype. If I am biased towards Silkolene it is for the right reasons which are as follows: Quality and performance of the product Suitability for your cars Openess in divulging technical information Top class Technicians and Chemists that are accessible to me 10 years with no come-backs from my Customers So I guess the next question is "why are you doing this for us then?" Of course, I'm an Oil Distributor but one with a difference ..... I'm open, honest and up front and I am prepared to put a lot of effort into helping my Customers or potential Customers to make the right choice with the facts to hand. At the end of the day, for all the time and effort spent in advising (and it's a lot, believe me) no one is obliged to buy oils from me, it's your money, your car and your choice! I enjoy doing this (it's also my business) and this forum is by far one of the most challenging technically, I hope that I can match your expectations. Honest enough........have we cleared the air? Cheers Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy couchman Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 1700 crossflow with forged pistons, dry sump, TBs and engine management - 150bhp. Used for road ad sprints/hillclimbs - but would be more likely to run more track days if I knew I was running the best oil in it. Get nervous if the oil pressure drops too much when hot but does that do any harm and when should I get worried enough to strip down the motor? Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted September 2, 2004 Author Share Posted September 2, 2004 Andy, People get totally hung up on oil pressure and you will always achieve good oil pressure with a "thick" oil but remember that oil pressure is a measure of resistance not flow. Flow is in fact more important. There is a balance to be struck. I don't know your car as well as you do but what pressure would you expect to see? I'm sure others here would have a better idea on this one than I would. Cheers Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KDEANO Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 1989 1700 xflow - twin webers - 135bhp Mainly road use with 6-10 or so track days a year. Used all year around (unless snow or ice). ta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevsta Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 1.8 VVC engine with dry sump, approx 158bhp Max rpm 7200 (well when i put it in over the winter anyway!). Mainly track use plus driving to and from the track. Current oil i use is chevron 10W40 fully synthetic (it may be american as i buy it from costco - really quite cheap but with all the latest ratings to a high spec) Is this stuff any good? Cheers Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted September 4, 2004 Author Share Posted September 4, 2004 Kevsta, No offence mate but since when have costco been a specialist oil retailer and at those prices, what do you expect? Nuff said Cheers Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter MarieEa Posted September 4, 2004 Share Posted September 4, 2004 Simon What about Silkolenes' Pro 4 10W-40 Motorcycle oil? It is Ester based vrs PAO and has alot of attractive features which would suit a Caterham application. I'm not sure if you're aware but most of us don't run catalitic converters so it would appear to be a good choice, the price notwithstanding. Perhaps you could bring it up on Monday. Regards, Peter Quick7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan L Posted September 4, 2004 Share Posted September 4, 2004 1991 Cosworth 1700 BDR - Engine unmodified except for unleaded conversion and competition ignition system. Running on twin weber 45's and dry sumped. Currently using Valvolene 20/50 Racing Oil. Car does about 3000 miles a year plus a few track days. I don't rev the car passed 6500rpm, but it does consume a bit of oil and like most xflows it does seep a bit of oil round gaskets/unions. Alan and his Yellow and Green BDR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strongy Posted September 5, 2004 Share Posted September 5, 2004 1989 1700 xflow, twin webers, dry sumped, with oil cooler, road use only (so far) running on Castrol 15w 40w. Strongy - trying my best to convince 'er indoors that there's no need to sell it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted September 7, 2004 Author Share Posted September 7, 2004 The wanderer has returned and Silkolene have all the information. They will study it and sort out the best oils for your use, I will post their recommendations on the forum under a different thread. In the discussion I had with them they stressed that the "true" synthetics would be the best option for track, sprints and hill climbs because they are the most "shear" stable and cope better with the demands of such activities. Regarding using thick oils, John Rowland had the following to say concerning "hill climbs" Quote: The point to stress is that a thick oil, especially if it is at a low temperature (ie, 70 - 80C) as it is likely to be in hillclimbing, will tend to retain air bubbles, which could then be fed to the bearings. High ‘G’ forces plus high acceleration/braking forces, which is what hillclimbing is all about, means that the oil is being continuously and severely agitated, making the risk of air entrainment even worse. Given two oils with good load-carrying properties, the thinner is always the best choice unless oil temps. are very high (120C+), races very long, and oil pumps antiquated! Unquote: I will post up as soon as I have their professional advice. Cheers Simon sales@opieoils.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted September 7, 2004 Share Posted September 7, 2004 Hi Oilman, It might help if you got a summary of the principal engine types available. In order of popularity (numbers) it's probably: Rover K series, mostly 1.6 or 1.8, some VVCs, producing 115-250bhp. Most are 130-160bhp. Don't forget the 1.4s, either in Supersport (128 bhp) or basic 100 bhp versions. Ford XFs, between 100(sprint) to 135 (supersprint) bhp. Some are much hotter than this. Vauxhall 1.6, 100 bhp generally, some have been Blydenstined. Vauxhall 2.0XE, 165 bhp upwards. Cosworths etc 150bhp up. (Rare) Bike engines Zetecs (never a standard fit outside the US but a popular dropin to replace a dead XF) Other XF variants, eg Vegantunes, Lotus TCs, etc. Weirdos, specials, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin H Posted September 7, 2004 Share Posted September 7, 2004 You can add my wet sumped Fireblade (circa 1998 engine on carbs). Almost exclusively track use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy couchman Posted September 8, 2004 Share Posted September 8, 2004 Thanks Simon/Oilman Don't know if it's just my crossflow engine but from cold I get a 4.5 (bar?) reading when revved down to 2 bar on tickover. When it gets hot both figures drop - to about 3-3.5 bar when revved and 1 bar on tickover. That's on Valvolene Racing 20/50. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted September 8, 2004 Author Share Posted September 8, 2004 Just a quick thanks for all the feedback here. I'll post the recommendations as soon as I have then to hand, should be interesting as there seem to be quite a number of different configurations. Cheers Simon sales@opieoils.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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