Clutch change

[JKJ]

Have recently noticed a tendancy for the clutch on my 1700 SS to slip slightly when applying the power. Not all the time mind you, just occasianally, car has covered 36,000 mls. If a new clutch is required, do I need to remove both the engine and gearbox, or can the two be split to leave the gearbox in place. Any upgrades to the clutch recommended whilst doing the job, bearing in mind it's a road based car, and what bits to replace whilst in there. Also how easy is it to do and are any special tools required ?

 

Thanks

[Irrelevant]

IMO it's easier taking the engine and box out together. It's very simple, I took mine out in 3 hours last night and I'm no expert. You will need an engine crane and a leveller(very important). You don't need any special tools. I find it easiest to take all the ancillaries off so you just have the block and head left as it makes it far easier to get in and out. I'd also advise taking the thermostat case off as it tends to foul the lifting chains as the engine is jiggled around getting it out of the car. Don't forget the gearlever and speedo drive either.

Make sure you drain the engine oil, essential if you have a dry sump, and gearbox oil, as it will come out the back of the box when the prop pulls out.

Other jobs to do while you're at it . . . . not much apart from a good clean and possibly a touch up of the paint on the chassis. People often say change the clutch cable - I wouldn't bother unless there was some kind of damage/fraying to it.

One little tip - put bolts back on where they came from when you remve something as it's easy to get them muddled otherwise. Many fasteners look very similar but are different lengths - e.g. inlet manifold, engine mount, exhaust bolts - all the same allen headed bolts(on my car anyway) but all slightly different lengths.

 

Accumulating bits . . .

[boughtoneatlast]

Adam, What is a leveller????

 

Ex 1.6 SS, now 186bhp!!, it flies.... well it did!!!!!......

[Irrelevant]

A load leveller . . . . If you try doing the job without one you will realise why they are so useful.

 

Accumulating bits . . .

[Nick T]

Hi

 

Just done a clutch on a 1700 SS. It is possible to remove the engine with the G/box in place, however I had to remove the front crankshft pulley.

 

Apart from that I agree with all the advice so far.

 

Hope this helps

 

Nick

[davidvoas73]

I recently changed the clutch on my 1800 SS, using a clarke 1 ton engine crane and backed the car away from crane.

 

Other than the crane, spanners, socket set, some hex head drives and a torque wrench - no special tools required.

 

I did not find it neccessary to remove any engine ancillaries, bar the oil pressure sender. I did however remove the radiator complete with top and bottom hoses and submarine pipe, the header tank and the n/s chassis rail (not sure if correct term - but it's the chassis rail between the headlights and the bulkhead at cylinder head height)

 

You just need to get the engine pretty high and watch the gearbox/bellhousing as it exits the transmission tunnel and the engine all round past the chassis tubes.

 

Suggest you remove the gearbox reversing light switch first as it will foul the transmission tunnel and break! Do a search in tech talk - there is lots of useful advice.

 

If you are changing the clutch, do the clutch friction plate and the cover plate together (make sure you get the friction plate the right way round ❗), the clutch release bearing is only a tenner so you might as well change that as well. As above the clutch cable only really needs changing if worn - you can change it later without having to remove the engine.

 

Have a good luck at the clutch release fork before refitting, mine was knackered!

 

Edited by - wavydavy on 3 Sep 2004 20:11:22