Newta Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 Forgive my most basic of questions, but I am about to take delivery of my first ever project, and have numerous (possibly silly points) that I am stuggling with. The first is simply, when I start work on my new Caterham, should I undertake some form of rust proofing / protection, and if so what is the best one to choose, and what form of application should I be looking at ? Any help would be appreciated, aslo please forgive me if I have not abseverd certain protocols, as this is also my first posted message. Thanks JN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongomania Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 Have a look at a seven that is a few years old (both from above and below) and note the places where corrossion has occurred. Protect these spots using wayoil or wd40 or similar now, before and during your build. Try and prevent galvanic action between dissimilar metals - tube frame is steel, body skin is aly. I would be tempted to use a thin layer of plastic film or tape or silicone between wherever possible, but chassis normally arrive with most panels already pop riveted in place. Also the pop rivets connect the two metals. Maintain the car each winter but getting it up on a stand and touching up the powdercoat to the frame where damaged and re-wayoiling. You will get lots more good advice from others on here and you can doa search through the archives ... Seven-Ecstasy.co.uk How's My Driving? Call 1800-BITE-ME Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 Do a search against "Wayoyl" or "Dinitrol" (Maybe Dinatrol) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Sailor Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 Waxoyl not Wayoyl 😬 Ken Sailor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dino ferrana Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 The MG car club (or similar) did some decent scientific research on these chemicals and they found that Dinitrol was the best. It was more difficult to wash off when blasted with salt solution and it also penetrated gaps by capillary action far better than Waxoyl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WD Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 Try ACF-50 - an anti corrosive used in the aircraft industry. Can be obtained from www.transair.co.uk. I have been most impressed with the results. It is recommended that it re-applied every two years. Quite expensive but goes a long way. It is also excellent on the bike in winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bare Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 My colleague just ( about 3 weeks ago) bought a one owner Series three (with the 84 hp engine no less :-).. It lived in the previous owners Carport since 1969! this provided a Roof only, no sides. It has NO rust whatsoever.. anywhere. You may be worrying about absolutely nothing at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted August 27, 2004 Support Team Share Posted August 27, 2004 Your biggest enemy in the UK is winter salting of the roads so you need to do something if you plan to drive your car all year round. Corrosion is only going to set in where the powder coat gets damaged so as long as you check regularly for damage and touch up with something like POR-15 (or Hammerite as a last resort) then you shouldn't have any problems. One of the worst likley areas is the lower chassis rail between the footwells and the sideskins - this is a trap for all the cr*p from the road and is the first area most sevens start to rust. Clean this area out regularly and use Dinitrol/Waxoyl to protect it. Other areas to watch are front wishbones and chassis rails that can get damaged by stones and also some of the rear cross members - check them regularly and touch up when they chip. Allegedly, the powder coat process was changed around 1996/97 and cars from this era are prone to the powder coat flaking off (as my own 1997 car ably demonstrates). My car is having a chassis up rebuild this year to take care of the problem and I will be using Dinitrol to protect it where necessary. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 More misinformation from Bare Tell them where you live Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongomania Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 I have seen sevens weeks old with signs of corrosion. Do something to protect it if you want it to last. Seven-Ecstasy.co.uk How's My Driving? Call 1800-BITE-ME Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Morgan Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 Shaun, I noticed the other day (when my 1990 car was up on the ramps for the MOT) that there are some regularly shaped "bumps" on the lower edge of the ally side panel beneath the windscreen (where the side panel folds under and meets the floor). I'm concerned that this is the effect of corrosion between the frame and side skin, from within the footwell (possibly as a result of water gathering in the corner and seeping down into the joint). I put silicone bathroom sealer in all the panel-to-frame joints I could get at when I built it, but I can't remember doing that in the side of the footwell. Any thoughts? Am I worried unnecessarily? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Sailor Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 Newta: I've used a silicone wax (Turtle wax Zip Wax in the UK)on the inside surfaces of the alum. panels, inside the engine compartment, exterior of the gas tank and the whole rear axle area, etc. in addition to Waxoyling all the areas mentioned above. Spray on, no rubbing, no leftover white deposits in the nooks and cranneys. Every time you ask a question you're going to get a multitude of answers to choose from. Part of the fun of BlatChat. You could do a post mentioning what spec. Seven you're getting and how you intend to use it - race? grocery shopping? track days? and asking what owners wish they had done to theirs to make it easier to put together, take apart when needed, make it more comfortable to drive, eaiser to work on, etc. Things like heat shielding the footwells, using plastic fasteners to attach the wings, tack welding the transmission mount nuts in place, Solo Bleeds instead of the supplied brake bleeds, manual radiator fan override switches, and so on. You're going to love the car. Ken Sailor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super_Rich_Bernie Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 Superb suggestion for rustproofing on another forum I look at....stir the dust from you vacuum cleaner bag into a bowl of used sump oil. Paint all over the underside of your car. I am assured it works and did not originate from Viz top tips. Waxoyl & WD40 will do me nicely thankyou. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted August 27, 2004 Support Team Share Posted August 27, 2004 Ralph, Having difficulty picturing exactly where you mean but if bumps are appearing in the aluminium then unless there are rivets behind there then it could well be corrosion. On my car the paint is bubbling along the lower side panel. If I understand your description then yours is like that on the inside. Sorry can't offer any further guidance on that. Shaun Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Morgan Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 Shaun, The bumps (3 or 4 - can't quite remember) are on the outside, presumably caused by corrosion products forcing the skin off the frame. As they are regularly spaced, I can't help feeling that they are coming from corrosion of, or around, rivet heads, but can't see how there would be rivets in that location under the skin. I think I'll' squirt some Waxoyl or similar down there just in case! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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