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De Dion CV boot replacement


Tony Whitley

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I've taken my driveshaft out (easy), got the metal can off (not very elegantly) and now it seems I need a puller to remove the centre of the tripode CV joint (the inner one). Is that right or is there another way to do it?

 

Why do I only see the difficulties once I've got my car irretrievably in pieces *confused*

 

M1 7 SMW 1.4-now-1.8K Mem.No. 10376

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Tony, would I be correct in my assumption that Guy isn't keen on you attempting to dismantle the CV joint 🤔 😬

 

I put my driveshafts into the local Ford garage and let them replace the metal/rubber boots.

It's a pain in the ar*e removing the metal can(as you've discovered)..........it's a nightmare to remake the finished job on the new one. ie it needs to be 'formed' with a hammer and some skill.

 

Oh, and don't forget to replace the 'O' ring seals in the diff where the drive shaft enters. I'm speaking from experience here and I'm waiting for the winter to come(sadly enough) so that I can remove the driveshafts AGAIN in order to fit some two bob seals *mad* which will in turn prevent transmission oil from dripping on my garage floor. *mad* *mad*

 

Brian

 

'The Wizard' is a 1989 de Dion SuperSprint in Red with Silver stripe..

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Brian, Guy *thumbdown* *thumbdown* *thumbdown* This is not what I want to hear ☹️ The BlatChat reply should be "Easy. Couple of hairpins and a length of sticky back plastic and it's all over in a couple of shakes of a lamb's tail".

 

 

Bugger.

 

M1 7 SMW 1.4-now-1.8K Mem.No. 10376

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Tony,

Been there got the T shirt etc...

Tape the bearings together with duct tape round and round so they don't fly apart and grind a suitable width cold chiesel flat so that it give a good area to the inner rim on the knuckle.

Put the halfshaft in the biggest vice you can find and whack said cold chiesel with a big hammer.

I found one end the half shaft knuckles will come off. The other is crimped too much, maybe

an even bigger hammer?! I bent a nice 3 legged puller trying!

 

Alt you can leave the can in place and buy a nice duraboot gaitor and cone and slidey silcone spray and do the job in next to no time *wink*

Search on the web for Duraboot for next time.

 

The can is fun to swage back on... nice word for hammering on a press fit... You have to work with it under tension and piece of wood to spread the load and pushing with ones gut, one hand steatying and the other hammering is the way I do it!

Make sure you get a proper Ford kit 'O' rings, grease and all. Motor factor ones do not seem to fit properly.

 

I did not replace the seals to the diff and they were fine so far...

 

If you have big probs bring it round and we'll sort it *thumbup*

 

Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here

My racing info site

here

 

Edited by - stevefoster on 17 Jul 2004 17:36:55

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All done. Easy peasy, if rather messy. I went for the wimps method: using a 3 legged puller (an IOM puller 😬) it came apart easily. Twice, as I forgot the plastic cup thing on the shaft the first time...

it's a nightmare to remake the finished job on the new one. ie it needs to be 'formed' with a hammer and some skill.
Add "skilled with hammer" to CV *cool*

Not skilled with those nasty clip things though - one was too small anyway and I couldn't get the other to tighten so I've used cable ties for both - I hope they a) satisfy the MOT man and b) do the job.

 

M1 7 SMW 1.4-now-1.8K Mem.No. 10376

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