Petrolhead Posted September 14, 2004 Share Posted September 14, 2004 Have sent a couple of mail for prices but no reply (Silkolene PRO S 5w-40). Am I using the right address R500 no 63 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted September 14, 2004 Share Posted September 14, 2004 Try sales@opieoils.co.uk Cheers Simon PS. The "Club" is now signed up to our "Clubs Oil Scheme" so Club Members can now take full advantage of our service. sales@opieoils.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted September 14, 2004 Share Posted September 14, 2004 Thats the address I used I will send again R500 no 63 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Sailor Posted September 14, 2004 Share Posted September 14, 2004 A word of praise for Silkolene, US. I typed Silkolene into Google and the Silkolene Shop was hit number one. Very easy site to use and order from. Lots of info on the site too. Out of curiosity I also looked at Mobile 1’s web site. Useless! I had looked in five different stores and found that they all carried only 5W30 and 10W30 which seem to be the grades recommended for modern tin tops. Mobil’s web site offered zero help in obtaining anything different. Also tried Redline. They do list which stores carry their oil but, as with Mobil, the stores don’t carry their full range of products. Red line does, at least, give mail order sources for their oil but only one of them carried the 5W40 that I want. So, kudos to Silkolene. Ken Sailor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted September 14, 2004 Share Posted September 14, 2004 I must say that it doesn't surprise me. Sadly! Of the 5 oil brands we deal with, they are by far the most helpful and their delivery service is excellent. We find Castrol and Mobil pretty unhelpful and their delivery service is "when it arrives" which at times makes things very difficult for us. Silkolene's Technical back-up is also second to none. Great Company to deal with. Cheers Simon sales@opieoils.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windy1 Posted September 18, 2004 Share Posted September 18, 2004 Peter, As I stated in my ealier posts, running my cars at extremes of operation with Valvolene Synpower 5W50 works for me. It has proven its abilities & I have no reason to change. I am curious however, that the oil experts tend to disagree. My initial reason for using this oil came by recommendation from a well respected engine builder & tuner. When you are running engines on dyno's all day, then stripping them down for inspection, that person has a pretty good idea of what works & what doesn't. Interestingly he steered me away from using Mobil1. There is science & there is Marketing. Most people are swayed into making their decision by these & not by what works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted September 26, 2004 Share Posted September 26, 2004 I would totally agree, what works is important and of course personal choice however............ Many people out there do not know all the facts about oil. Why one grade is better or more suited than another. Why certain basestocks are better than others. Why certain oils are more thermally stable than others. Why certain viscosities need more additives than others. Why some oils are labelled as synthetic but are not. Why proper synthetic oils are better than their petroleum cousins. In my posts I have tried to answer all of these questions and more in the most informative and unbiased way that I could. At the end of the day it's down to personal choice, cost and unfortunately some hype and clever marketing that makes you choose an oil, you can make your own mind up if you have the technical data. Still working on the recommendations and hope to have something to post up next week. Cheers Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Howe Posted September 27, 2004 Share Posted September 27, 2004 Excellent service - e-mailed sales@opieoils.co.uk an order for 4 x 5l Silkolene at the beginning of last week and it arrived the next morning. JH Deliveries by Saffron, the yellow 222bhp Sausage delivery machine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinwhitcher Posted September 27, 2004 Share Posted September 27, 2004 John, Me too , top service! Martin MW 51 CAT Superlight No.171 now know as:Superlight DVA 207 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted September 29, 2004 Share Posted September 29, 2004 Thought this advice would be of interest to some of the less technically minded, to most of you I guess that you already knew this. If you are "modding" your car and adding BHP then consider your oil choice carefully as the stock manufacturers recommended oil may not give you the protection that your engine requires. A standard oil may not be thermally stable enough to cope with the higher temperatures without "shearing" meaning that the oil will not give the same protection after a couple of thousand miles as it did when it was new. Let’s start with the fundamentals. An engine is a device for converting fuel into motive power. Car enthusiasts get so deep into the details they lose sight of this! To get more power, an engine must be modified such that it converts more fuel per minute into power than it did in standard form. To produce 6.6 million foot-pounds per minute of power (ie 200 BHP) a modern engine will burn about 0.5 litres of fuel per minute.(Equivalent to 18mpg at 120mph). So, to increase this output to 300BHP or 9.9 million foot-pounds per minute it must be modified to burn (in theory) 0.75 litres. However, fuel efficiency often goes out of the window when power is the only consideration, so the true fuel burn will be rather more than 0.75 litres/min. That’s the fundamental point, here’s the fundamental problem: Less than 30% of the fuel (assuming it’s petrol) is converted to all those foot-pounds. The rest is thrown away as waste heat. True, most of it goes down the exhaust, but over 10% has to be eliminated from the engine internals, and the first line of defence is the oil. More power means a bigger heat elimination problem. Every component runs hotter; For instance, piston crowns and rings will be running at 280-300C instead of a more normal 240-260C, so it is essential that the oil films on cylinder walls provide an efficient heat path to the block casting, and finally to the coolant. Any breakdown or carbonisation of the oil will restrict the heat transfer area, leading to serious overheating. A modern synthetic lubricant based on true temperature-resistant synthetics is essential for long-term reliability. At 250C+, a mineral or hydrocracked mineral oil, particularly a 5W/X or 10W/X grade, is surprisingly volatile, and an oil film around this temperature will be severely depleted by evaporation loss. Back in the 1970s the solution was to use a thick oil, typically 20W/50; in the late1980s even 10W/60 grades were used. But in modern very high RPM engines with efficient high-delivery oil pumps thick oils waste power, and impede heat transfer in some situations. A light viscosity good synthetic formulated for severe competition use is the logical and intelligent choice for the 21st century. You should therefore seriously consider a "true" synthetic for "shear stability" and the right level of protection. Petroleum oils tend to have low resistance to “shearing” because petroleum oils are made with light weight basestocks to begin with, they tend to burn off easily in high temperature conditions which causes deposit formation and oil consumption. As a result of excessive oil burning and susceptibility to shearing (as well as other factors) petroleum oils must be changed more frequently than synthetics. True synthetic oils (PAO’s and Esters) contain basically no waxy contamination to cause crystallization and oil thickening at cold temperatures. In addition, synthetic basestocks do not thin out very much as temperatures increase. So, pour point depressants are unnecessary and higher viscosity basestock fluids can be used which will still meet the "W" requirements for pumpability. Hence, little or no VI improver additive would need to be used to meet the sae 30, 40 or 50 classification while still meeting 0W or 5W requirements. The end result is that very little shearing occurs within true synthetic oils because they are not "propped up" with viscosity index improvers. There simply is no place to shear back to. In fact, this is easy to prove by just comparing synthetic and petroleum oils of the same grade. Of course, the obvious result is that your oil remains "in grade" for a much longer period of time for better engine protection and longer oil life. Hope this is of interest to you. Cheers Simon sales@opieoils.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tight fart Posted September 29, 2004 Share Posted September 29, 2004 So why when my VW handbook states that I must use a VW505.01 spec oil, does the main dealer use an oil that states not to be used if your handbook says VW505.01 and VW couldn't care less (golf 130tdi) sorry old gripe. How much of this is relavent when most of us using our cars on the track, change oil every 1000 miles or less? (assuming we are using a premium oil) Car 77 in the open race at the festival, come and say hello. pics here www.p1spot.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted September 29, 2004 Share Posted September 29, 2004 tightfart. (ha,ha) I will never understand Dealers either. VW are very specific about the oils you should use and 505.01 is very specific. - It couldn't be simpler really, could it? Regarding changing the oil every 1000 miles, that's just another way of looking at it really. If you do the sums, and it's easy enough to do, you will actually find that the odds are stacked in favour of synthetics. I'm sure you won't take my word for it so it doesn't really matter anyway. Just trying to be helpful not provocative. Cheers Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wiley Posted September 29, 2004 Share Posted September 29, 2004 Synths are performance oils have better cooling and withstand higher temps. Also minerals are made by adding polymeric plastic thickeners to an oil with a very light viscosity. An example of this is a 10W-40 oil, which is created by thickening a 10W oil to the equivalent of an SAE 40W oil at 212 degrees F. The reason a 10W oil is used is to maintain low viscosity at low temperatures; this helps with engine startup and cold weather performance. The thickeners increase viscosity at higher temperatures. Unfortunately, when the large molecules of the polymer thickeners encounter a high stress area, like a bearing, these big molecules tend to align themselves to create a path of least resistance. This greatly reduces the film strength of the oil; the result can be an apparent viscosity that is much lower than the viscosity listed on the container. In fact. a standard 10W-40 oil, when subjected to high stress, may perform to SAE 20 specifications, simply because the added thickeners cannot cope with the additional stress. Synthetic oils require no thickeners to achieve multi-grade ratings because they are constructed from naturally multi-graded basestocks. In addition, the actual shape of synthetic oil base molecules enables these synthetics to maintain a much higher viscosity under stress. Because of this, most synthetics provide significantly greater viscosity than petroleum oils under high speed conditions. It is even more important that an oil provide a seal between the piston rings and cylinder walls to ensure maximum compression on the stroke. Most petroleum oils will allow blow-by because their weaker viscosity allows high-pressure gasses to escape into the crankcase area. Modern synthetic oils, on the other hand, prevent blow-by due to better viscosity. Esters are also friction modifiers and the supersyn of M1, and are polarized. RL and Motul use a high % of esters in their Motorsport oils. If you intend to stress an oil its better to stress a synth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted September 29, 2004 Share Posted September 29, 2004 Well put Sir! In other words, true "synthetics" (PAO, Diesters, Polyloesters) are more thermally stable basestocks and due to this they require less VI improvers to "prop them up", this makes them less prone to "shearing" with temperature, hence they stay in grade longer. A good synthetic can be used even on a track for 6000+ miles without a change. Just one point though, PAO's (like Mobil 1) are in fact inert, esters are polar. Esters All jet engines are lubricated with synthetic esters, and have been for 50 years, but these expensive fluids only started to appear in petrol engine oils about 20 years ago. Thanks to their aviation origins, the types suitable for lubricants work well from –50 degC to 200 degC, and they have a useful extra trick. Due to their structure, ester molecules are “polar”; they stick to metal surfaces using electrostatic forces. This means that a protective layer is there at all times, even during that crucial start-up period. This helps to protect cams, gears, piston rings and valve train components, where lubrication is “boundary” rather than “hydrodynamic”, i.e. a very thin non-pressure fed film has to hold the surface apart. Even crank bearings benefit at starts, stops or when extreme shock loads upset the “hydrodynamic” film. Most Companies that use esters use around 10% or less with PAO's, there are others like Silkolene who use more than 20% in certain of their high performance car and bike oils. Cheers Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter MarieEa Posted September 30, 2004 Share Posted September 30, 2004 Gentlemen, We have talked alot about the importance of having a 'Polar' element in a motor oil, but it is not just esters that address the issue. Mobil 1 relies on Molybdenun Disulfide (MoS2) to perform that trick. Which does a better job I don't know, but it is probabily one of the reasons Mobil 1 is always there when you start talking about what is the best motor oil. I think one reason Mobil 1 sometimes gets critisized is an inadequate viscosity selection in the 40 and 50 grades. On this side of the Atlantic where 30wt is the norm there are four grades or types- 0W30, 5W30, 10W30 and the new 0W30 racing oil. In a 40wt you only have 0W40 (They do make a 5W40 in the States but it is not commonly available). In a 50wt there is just 15W50 with 5W50 in Europe only. I questioned Exxon/Mobil about this and couldn't get a satifactory answer, except that it was perfectly acceptable to mix grades since the formulations were similar. To know what your going to wind up with you need to rely on the Kinematic viscosity of each grade more so than the SAE grade on the bottle which is too wide a range to be accurate. For example; 3 liters of 0W40 and 1liter of 15W50 will give you a very solid 5W40 similar to the kinematic viscosity of Silkolene's PRO-S 5W40. A 50/50 blend of the same grades will result in a rather heavy 10W40. Red Line by the way also have no problem with mixing grades and actually recommended to me in a special application of mine. Quick7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted September 30, 2004 Share Posted September 30, 2004 "It is even more important that an oil provide a seal between the piston rings and cylinder walls to ensure maximum compression on the stroke. Most petroleum oils will allow blow-by because their weaker viscosity allows high-pressure gasses to escape into the crankcase area. Modern synthetic oils, on the other hand, prevent blow-by due to better viscosity." Really!!!!!! I can't see it myself - lubricating oil providing a seal between the rings and bore - NAH. And again JET ENGINES - There can be no worthwhile comparison between a gas turbine engine and piston engine lubricant - the needs are entirely different. Oilman, you have my respect 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tight fart Posted September 30, 2004 Share Posted September 30, 2004 AH HA!! OILMANS WRONG AT LAST!!! I'm sure you won't take my word for it so it doesn't really matter anyway. But I do Car 77 in the open race at the festival, come and say hello. pics here www.p1spot.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted September 30, 2004 Share Posted September 30, 2004 LOL 😬 Cheers Simon sales@opieoils.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fury Pilot Posted October 1, 2004 Share Posted October 1, 2004 Could someone (OilMan?) tell me if Morris' Fully Synth is a genuine synth? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted October 1, 2004 Share Posted October 1, 2004 Which one are you using? Cheers Simon sales@opieoils.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fury Pilot Posted October 1, 2004 Share Posted October 1, 2004 Ah. Got me there. Not using it at all, but just saw it in a local factors when I was picking up some other stuff and thought I'd ask the question, as it would be convenient for me to use if it were the pukka stuff. I guess I thought that it was fair to have a 1:1 map between manufacturers and yes/no on true synthetic. Sounds like I boobed, there! :-) To partly answer your question, it's comparable in price to Comma Syner-G (does that answer my question? ;-) and in a blue container. The motor factors is: Whoopee ! Does this help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted October 1, 2004 Share Posted October 1, 2004 By all means check but I think you'll find it of the "hydrocracked" variety. A good synthetic will be between £7 and £10 per litre, that's what it costs to make! Cheers Simon sales@opieoils.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fury Pilot Posted October 1, 2004 Share Posted October 1, 2004 Thanks for the rule of thumb. Looks like I can't meet my ideal of finding a proper, fully synth 10W/40 oil (for my Vx XE) by walking into a motor factors - since, IIRC, the Halfords Mobil 1 isn't available in that spec. Well, you've convinced me that I should stick out for the proper stuff, so I'll go mail order. Cheers! :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted October 1, 2004 Share Posted October 1, 2004 Drop me an email and I'll send you a very long list. Cheers Simon sales@opieoils.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fury Pilot Posted October 1, 2004 Share Posted October 1, 2004 Simon: YHM :-) Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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