Paul Wiley Posted October 2, 2004 Share Posted October 2, 2004 MSDS on Morris is informative. Is there a better oil than M1 0W40? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted October 3, 2004 Share Posted October 3, 2004 In what respect? Quality or suitability? Cheers Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wiley Posted October 3, 2004 Share Posted October 3, 2004 MB Classification was the starting point? Has oil filter been considered re extended drain and add pack? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 Paul, I'm no expert on filters so I'm not sure. Additive packs are of course designed in line with the oil application. I personally would not fancy the condition of any oil after 22000 kms and would have a problem with MB variable service intervals of this length. I'm not advocating that it's wrong, I just think it's too long. The problem with the headline "total cost of ownership" figures is that they put too much pressure on the car manufacturers. 10 years time? 50000kms drain periods? Who knows. Cheers Simon sales@opieoils.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tight fart Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 Castrol 10/60w any good ? T.F@O.F. A7 RDP Pics here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 It's a hydrocracked oil. we had it tested in May 2004. Nothing special I'm afraid. Cheers Simon sales@opieoils.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wiley Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 Simon, Any views on following and ExxonMobil are using GIII in US not in M1, and info on test Engine wear actually decreases as oil ages. This has also been substantiated in testing conducted by Ford Motor Co. and ConocoPhillips, and reported in SAE Technical Paper 2003-01-3119. What this means is that compulsive oil changers are actually causing more engine wear than the people who let their engine's oil get some age on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 So it seesm that the Silolene is probably the best to go for? How ofter should it be change for: a) Road use b) Track use R500 no 65 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter MarieEa Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Petrohead I don't think even Simon has claimed that the Silkolene Pro-S oils are the best; very good but not necessarily the best. They are ester fortified PAOs. If I had a highly stressed engine like in the R500, I would give serious consideration to a straight Ester based oil like Red LIne in their 5W40 or 10W40 grades, particularily for the track use scenerio. Not only is the base stock a Polyol Ester but it also contains alot of Moly (MoS2); both of which are polar. The estimated engine life of you engine is only 30,000 to 40,000 miles between rebuilds so I wouldn't compromise. Motul 330V is also worth a look. For street use the least expensive PAO and/or Ester based synthetic you can find would be adequate IMHO. One final comment, it is unfortunate synthetic oil cost so much in the UK. Red Line oil in North America retails for between 4and 5.5 pounds stirling per liter. Mobil 1 between 2.5 and 3.5. Hey, it's almost worth flying over here to pick up a few cases! Peter Quick7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter MarieEa Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Petrolhead For both street and track an annual oil change made preferably before the car is chiefly used which for most of us would be in the spring. Quick7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Petrolhead. Silkolene recommend the following oil change periods for PRO S 5w-40 and 10w-50 and PRO R 15w-50 Road: 6,000 miles / Annual whichever comes first Track: Every 5 racing hours Hope this helps Cheers Simon sales@opieoils.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Very helpfull Cheers R500 no 65 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 With regards to Silkolene being the best, it's really a question of what you are looking for. Certainly it is in the top catagory as far as quality is concerned amongst other excellent oils. The benefits of using it apart from quality is it's a damn sight cheaper in the UK than Redline, Royal Purple and many other quality oils and what's more it's available in decent size cans (5 litres). If you are looking for a top oil which will give excellent long term protection then it's definately one to seriously consider but if you're happy with an inferior "hydrocracked" oil then you'll save money per litre but need to change it more often. "Swings and roundabouts" springs to mind! I should also point out that we don't just sell expensive oils at this point, but the cheaper ones we sell are amongst their peers, good oils and reasonably priced. I personally would use the better oil every time as in the long run it will pay off. At the end of the day, it's your car and your money so I can only give my advice in an honest way and leave it to you to decide. Cheers Simon Tech Data: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm sales@opieoils.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westfield Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Interesting thread! Off topic slightly but what would people recommend as a good oil to use in a 1979 Ducati 900 desmo? My mate runs one and still uses straight 50 oil in it! I am convinced he should be using a more modern oil. Can anyone recommend what he should be using and a few reasons why? I would love to be able to convince him!! Unless of course a straight 50 is the way to go…. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 This is probably not too far off, it would be either an sae 40 or 50. Cheers Simon sales@opieoils.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Paul, I put this one to the "techies" and this was the response. I would say ‘no’! It could just be true for a very shear-prone light ‘fuel economy’ (ILSAC GF-3) oil of the type favoured in the USA for big, low-stressed petrol engines. With excellent air filtration to keep abrasive particles at a minimum, it is just possible that the carbon particles, and sulphur residues from fuel could assist the anti-wear properties of a poor oil. The situation in a highly-stressed engine would be different. Hope this helps. Cheers Simon sales@opieoils.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wiley Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Simon, I will go with your OCI above. With regard to polar esters these will compete with anti wear additives for surface metal. For a pure race engine esters and high moly make sense for temperature extremes, but is the PAO ester approach better for road and track car use? As moly has been mentioned it would be useful to compare additve packages compared to Motul Redline M1 and Castrol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tight fart Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 I spoke to a F1 engine consultant (who has built more GP winning engines than anyone on the planet ) And asked him where had the most advances in F1 engines come from over the last few years (I expected the answer to be electronics) and he thought about it and said, Oil !. T.F@O.F. A7 RDP Pics here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wiley Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Peter, Is this of use http://www.infineum.com/information/viscosity.html With engines having to last longer oil will still be at forefront Anyone know basestock etc although I assume ester and thin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 So, you guys, after 18 pages of discussion, is it ok for me to continue to use Mobil 1 15-40? norman verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Mem No 2166, the full story here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Yes Well if you want On the other hand No Yes 😬 😬 😬 Only being silly R500 no 65 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter MarieEa Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Nverona You mean Mobil 1 15W50 don't you? In which case the answer is yes. It is a solid product. The only reservation in this day and age is that it is a bit on the heavy side for starting. I presume you have no lubrication issues? Not knowing how you use your car can't really comment further. Paul Wiley Thanks for the info'. It's not exactly what I'm looking for. I guess the Kinematic Viscosity @0degC is just not available or anything lower than 40degC. Peter Quick7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted October 7, 2004 Share Posted October 7, 2004 Peter, yes I suppose so, it's the heavier one than the 0 something. I use the car hard on the road often hitting 9000 rpm. I read a long term roadtest using a BMW 3 as a New York taxi a doing 100,000 miles. The lab strip down reported that original machine marks were still visible. Good enough for me. How it does it is not really my concern - it does it. norman verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Mem No 2166, the full story here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted October 7, 2004 Share Posted October 7, 2004 No problems, would say that 15w-50 or 10w-50 is fine, 10w will give better cold start protection. Cheers Simon sales@opieoils.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted October 7, 2004 Share Posted October 7, 2004 Paul, Very high levels of soluble moly compounds are not a good idea for standard road engines that are expected to do 150,000mls without even the head coming off. This is because the moly compounds contribute to ash deposits in the combustion chambers; they also ( along with the normal Zn/Ca/Mg residues) shorten catalyst life. So best to stick to the PAO/ester, as you say. The assumption that the ‘chemical reaction’ type anti-wear compounds compete with the polar-attraction type is wrong. The mechanism of attachment to surfaces is fundamentally different, so they can coexist perfectly well. Cheers Simon sales@opieoils.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now