Blatman Posted May 29, 2001 Share Posted May 29, 2001 The 'box is coming out of the plastic fantastic this weekend, and while it's out, I want to replace the cast iron bellhousing with an ali one. Will I need to use the fork that "comes with" the new bellhousing, or can I use the one I have on the 'box nowquestion.gif I should tell you that it will be an RS2000 bellhousing, 'cos I run an NA cossie, so starter motor is on the near-side, and clutch cable on the off-side. Also, do I need to change the release bearing, and if so, to whatquestion.gif Thanks in advance. Edited by - Blatman on 29 May 2001 15:31:26 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Posted May 29, 2001 Share Posted May 29, 2001 This is the setup that I have on my X-F car. You need a 2.0 pinto release bearing and release arm. The bore of the release bearing should be 34mm or thereabouts and should clip into the arm, therefore requiring matching bearing and arm. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul D Jones Posted May 29, 2001 Share Posted May 29, 2001 If I was told right the RS2000 is hydraulic clutch so you will need to weld a lug on to opperate the clutch or go hydraulic you may need to cut a lump off the bellhousing to get it down the tunnel I have a SPC alloy bellhousing and had to do this but it already had a lug for the clutch cable good luck Paul [Westfeild builder] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted May 30, 2001 Share Posted May 30, 2001 I use an RS2000 ally bellhousing with my ATMO Cosworth, there is a slight geometry problem with the lever/cable, the cable is introduced thru a hole in the ally sump end plate and has to operate at an angle of around 10 degrees which is less than ideal, it works OK though. A Sierra arm and release bearing should work OK. The ultimate solution is to move the pivot that the arm sits on by around 5 degrees in an anti-clockwise direction, this allows the cable a straight run. You would be wise to hack off a bit of the exhaust side starter nose to give access to the end of the lever/cable or it will be impossible to refit. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted May 30, 2001 Author Share Posted May 30, 2001 Thanks chaps. Oily, any picsquestion.gif Also You would be wise to hack off a bit of the exhaust side starter nose to give access to the end of the lever/cable or it will be impossible to refit. It's early in the morning, but I'm not sure I understand. Do you mean the starter "housing" on the exhaust side, 'cos my starter is on the carb side, or am I missing something fundamentalquestion.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Posted May 30, 2001 Share Posted May 30, 2001 For the clutch cable nchor point, I have bridged the 3 redundant starter motor mounting holes with a triangular ali plate (approx 10mm thick) and put a hole in line with the release arm end I have then put a thin slot to the inside edge of the plate from the hole, to produce a sort of key slot arrangement. This will enable easy disengagment of the cable for removal. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Posted May 30, 2001 Share Posted May 30, 2001 Blatman, Also make sure that the rear face of the bell housing is clean and flat and sealed with a gasket and sealer. Also make sure the bolts are tight (70 ft /lb) Failure to do this will result in an annoying oil leak and gear selection problems, as the selector shaft protrudes into a recess on the rear face of the bellhousing. If the bolts aren't tight, misalignment will occur causing selection problems. Also make sure that the clutch cable doesn't get near the exhaust - the nylon coatings inside it will melt and fuse together. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted May 30, 2001 Share Posted May 30, 2001 My bellhousing has two starter 'noses/housings' one on either side to accomodate different starter motor fitments, the one on the exhaust/offside is redundant on the Pinto/Cos and ends up being where the end of the clutch arm swings, if it is left as is, there is no way to reach the end of the arm/cable when fitting the cable. As John says get a long enough cable and route *well* away from the exhaust, mine is routed the other side of the steering shaft out of harms way. A chamfer on the selector rod hole edge can help with mis-alignment problems and make sure you use a good thick paper gasket twixt bellhousing and 'box. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted May 30, 2001 Author Share Posted May 30, 2001 Look's like I'll have to postpone the bellhousing............ It is far from the straight forward swap I was hoping, and I have to complete the job this weekend, 'cos I'm at Dunkeswell next weekendteeth.gif Also make sure that the clutch cable doesn't get near the exhaust - the nylon coatings inside it will melt and fuse together. Oh yes, I know...................wink.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Posted May 30, 2001 Share Posted May 30, 2001 Blatman, Assumining that you already have the bellhousing, dont give in so easily. The problems are only minor and aren't that time consuming. Sourcing the parts is the time consuming bit. You already know about the clutch cable and the need to make a bridge anchor. The starter motor that you have should fit (as should the release arm and bearing. You'll only kick yourself if you have to have the engine out again to do it later...and the car will even feel faster as the weight difference is massive. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted May 30, 2001 Author Share Posted May 30, 2001 John Thanks for the support. I don't actually have the housing yet, but it's awaiting my instructions IYSWIM. As for minor, it's the minor things that seem to give me the biggest headaches. I'm not a complete technophobe, but I'm not an engineer either, and I always seem to lack that vital tool........ I think that, rather than rush it, I'll swap the box out this weekend, then plan the bellhousing swap for later in the season when I've sourced an even lighter flywheel and 7.25" clutch. At least I'm getting good at "whipping the engine out"......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS CLARK Posted May 30, 2001 Share Posted May 30, 2001 Your Sue said you were often lacking the vital tool too!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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