Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted May 11, 2004 Leadership Team Share Posted May 11, 2004 I'm in the middle of doing a full service etc before Le mans, and I've discovered coolant leaking from the water rail (I think!). Suspect place is on the underside directly opposite one of the sender bosses - around the point of the rearward-most exhaust bolt (set-screw). There's evidence of coolant down the side of the block, and the bolt is holding coolant. There isn't yet any noticeable coolant loss from the system. Is there a suitable method of fixing a hole - braising etc, or is replacement the only option? Also, is it necessary to source the original item or will the later one fit? I seem to recall the water rail was modified partly due to occurences of splitting? There's a "wanted" posted if anybody has a spare? Stu. Edited by - sforshaw on 11 May 2004 21:51:46 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 Stu Not sure I know the answer about the water rail. Hopefully you will be able to fix it before Le Mans. I'm sure someboby will be along soon with the answer. Sad to say that I found a coolant leak in that corner last week, but from block /head joint due to HG failure. Should be running again tomorrow. Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 Hi Stu - don't panic yet - if it is like the one I had - pictures here then it is just a matter or replacing the gasket between the water rail and head. Its a simple job, but you will need to refill/bleed the coolant again afterwards. If the water rail itself, then I guess it is a new one, but ISTR that leaking from gaskets here is not uncommon. 'My First Race - SPA' pictures here 60,000miles in 3years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 This rail also leaks from the weld on the boss near cylinders 1&2 . And runs down the rail to the temp senders . A little braze sorts it . Dave Edited by - Dave Jackson on 12 May 2004 07:59:08 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 They are able to be fixed with braze if split, assuming the gasket swap suggested by Angus doesn't fix it. It does appear to be a bit of an achilles heel and replacement runs about £40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted May 12, 2004 Author Leadership Team Share Posted May 12, 2004 I need to drain the system anyway to fit a Laminova, so I'll take it off and give it a good inspection before jumping in and renewing it. Angus, I do have similar stains on the block - mine are green from Comma Coldstreem, but I also have a wet area on the underside of the rail above the stains - this is why I suspect the rail rather than the gasket Dave - front 90% of rail is totally dry, so no problems there. Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Best Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 Stu, Seems exactly the same problem I had last year, when I renewed the gasket problem solved. I think the rail ended up wet as the leak was at the top of the gasket and it just ran down. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 It does appear to be a bit of an achilles heel and replacement runs about £40 Erm, I don't think so... Mav checked up the price of the current k-rail a month or so back (when we sheared the head off one of the senders... and it was more like £100... Keep BC free and open for ALL. Membership No. 43xx Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted May 12, 2004 Author Leadership Team Share Posted May 12, 2004 Mav doesn't seem to be having much luck with senders then Water rail's now off, and excepting a little flaking and bubbling of the coating, there appears to be no reason why it should leak. Assumption is therefore that it is indeed the gasket - I think belt & braces this time with a little hylomar may be the order of the day Thanks for theradvice Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 It didn't help Mav when some anonymous muppet had previously done the sender up too tight.... 😳 ...personally, I blame the sender (it was slightly corroded inside) - and they don't have any friends to stick up for them either (soft target...) Keep BC free and open for ALL. Membership No. 43xx Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 I got some gasket paper from halfords & made a copy of the old gasket when mine leaked a while ago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ginnes Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 Had the the same problem exactly as described by A&T. Tightened bolts maybe 1/4 turn at most. Been fine since. I see you've stripped it down now anyway. Ho hum Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Gillet Posted March 12, 2005 Share Posted March 12, 2005 I am wondering which torque I should use for the 2 water rail bolts. 10 N.m as for the cam cover bolts would be enough ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted March 12, 2005 Author Leadership Team Share Posted March 12, 2005 Similar size bolts, same ali head - probably go for it Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted March 12, 2005 Share Posted March 12, 2005 I agree. Oily will quite probably by tickled by this though Project Scope-Creep is underway... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old captain slow Posted March 12, 2005 Share Posted March 12, 2005 Haven't read all of the thread but it could easily be the gasket needs replacing where it's bolted to the head. Assume you have tried nipping up the two bolts? C7 CDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Gillet Posted March 13, 2005 Share Posted March 13, 2005 Chris, I unscrewed the two bolts slightly and re-torqued them @ 10 N.m. But it still is leaking. I plan now to replace the gasket. Can I use it dry ? Also, I can recall a problem I had in the past on the lower bolt which I cross- threaded slightly. I re-shaped the thread with a tap, and was able to torque the bolt normally. Now I am concerned that I will have to use a helicoil. Probably M6 ? Humm I am concerned about re-drilling in such an awkward place and the hole must absolutely be square to the head of course... Any web site to buy Helicoil at a low price ? Cheers! Pierre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulo Posted March 13, 2005 Share Posted March 13, 2005 Pierre, I have recently had a similar problem, have you checked that the water rail flange is perfectly flat, mine's wasn't. After the flange had been milled true the joint tightened down and stopped leaking. It's probably also worth torqueing the flange down before the bolt in the middle of the water rail and maybe using a couple or three washers to pack it out if it's out of position. Paul REAL POWER FROM HELLIER PERFORMANCE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Gillet Posted March 14, 2005 Share Posted March 14, 2005 Thanks Paulo as always. Pierre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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