Steering rack- easy replacement???

[Simon S]

Bit of advice needed!

At one point in the steering lock when stationary I can feel a slight "click" or clunk??! through the steering wheel. Is this likely to be an internal fault with the rack, or something else?? (I can't see anything moving that shouldn't between the rack and steering wheel)

If a new rack is needed how easy are they to fit and what tools are required.

 

OK you caught me out- I didn't build it!!!!

 

Any help appreciated.

[shn7]

Simon,

 

Not sure about diagnosis but if you need to replace then it's easy. Just a small selection of spanners required. Should take 30 - 45 minutes start to finish. When removing the steering arms from the ball joints just remember to count (and then note down) the number of turns it takes for the arms to come out. That way you can replace them to the same position and should get back to the same toe in/out setting.

 

Steve.

[TomB]

Out of curosity, can racks be reconditioned at less cost than a new unit? Seems to me that a rack is just an alloy tube containing a few cogs & mechanical bits? I cant imagine its that difficult to refurb?

[Simon S]

Many thanks

How can I tell what sort of rack is on my car? Are they all the same? It is a '99 K series VVC

[Englishmaninwales]

Tom

I had my rack refurbished last winter by Chris Wheeler's 7 Workshop. Overhaul, 2 new trackrod ends, carriage and VAT =£139. Took seven day from sending it to receiving it back. CC not interested in refurbishment, will supply new current version ( which dosn't fit older cars very well according to Chris Wheeler) for £200 plus carriage.

 

Malcolm

[Sheds Moderator]

£139 recon cost! Find a steering rack specialist, most rebuilds come in at a quarter of that. OK there is still VAT and the TREs, but you can do better than this.

[Robster]

Battered!

 

You almost certainly don't need to replace your rack!!!!!!!

 

The steering column passes through the bulkhead, and is clamped onto the long column to the rack..this clamp is likely the problem. There is a large grub screw that is locked bith a nut..this should prevent the two bits of metal moving..however the grub screw works a little loose and will need clamping up with an allen key.

 

To check this, you can see/feel movement in the clamp as you move the wheel.

 

Robster.

[CharlesElliott]

I agree with Robster - very likely to be the clamp which needs to be done up *really* tight.

 

Charles

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My Caterham Academy 2004 Diary

[Frying Pan]

I noticed mine had developed a little play in the upper / lower colum joint yesterday.

 

Unable to get the grub screw any tighter, but tightened the bolts as much as I could and the play is still there in the joint

 

Any ideas?

 

Guy

 

See some pictures of the build here. First 1000 miles completed!

[Robster]

Guy

 

Take the grub screw out. You will notice that the end is actually quite pointed..this is the reason for the play, either the point blunts a little or digs a bit out of the column. The answer is to CAREFULLY file the end of the grup screw a little, to ensure that the surface is more flat and even (you won't get it flat as I seem to remember that it is a 'ring shape'..but you will get a smooth ring with a larger surface area. This will not dig itself into the column in the same way and so you should once and for all get rid of the play. Just to be clear, you should tighten the grub screw right up, THEN lock with the nut..don't try and tighten it with the nut on 'cause it's locked!

 

Robster.