normalbloke.29 Posted April 12, 2004 Share Posted April 12, 2004 Surely steel nuts or ti nuts you'd still tighten them identically.Or am i missing something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Beaumont Posted April 13, 2004 Share Posted April 13, 2004 I suppose the implication is that with a Ti nut, if you were to over tighten it you'd strip the threads off the stud rather than the nut - a situation more annoying to rectify than vice versa. If one is successfully tightening steel/steel though, I fail to see why you would suddenly start heaving more torque on the nuts just 'cos it's Ti That, and the mention of this mystical "correct kind of lube" had me mark that post as a lot of fuss over nothing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMMO Posted April 13, 2004 Share Posted April 13, 2004 Bighead As someone who has spent thousands on titanium fasteners in the past I have to disagree with you. I have been using titanium fasteners for a long time (I have a nice box of left-overs that are slowly migrating to my car). You would have to be an idiot to strip a titanium fastener. Just as you would have to be an idiot to strip a steel one. As for an M12 nut you would have to be extremely gorilla-like to do that. I'm sure there are some ham fisted people out there that are capable of doing this. Even tyre fitters with air wrenches can't seem to strip an M12 thread. As for the correct type of lube a bit of normal off the shelf grease is all I ever used and never had any problems. Plus I have never seen any type of corrosion on a Ti fastener. I think titanium is better than stainless as it doesn't seem to suffer from bi-metallic corrosion. And its lighter 😬 AMMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted April 13, 2004 Share Posted April 13, 2004 AMMO, Changed my mind. I'd be interested in a set - if the price is right 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMMO Posted April 14, 2004 Share Posted April 14, 2004 I got a sample Barnby type nut in the post today from Chelspeed (thanks mate ). Should be very easy to make a titanium open ended version. Probably use the original washer. I was worried that the washer was somehow captive but it is in fact a loose item. I'll get a price for Ti washers as well. As I need the tapered type nuts for myself I will have to make two different types. Hopefully get a competetive quote within the next week. AMMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted April 14, 2004 Share Posted April 14, 2004 Ooohhh heck ......... I got both MB wheels and Caterham 8 spokes on 60deg taper nuts Now which nuts should I go for ?? this is todays big decision 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMMO Posted April 14, 2004 Share Posted April 14, 2004 Dave Serves you right for having lots of wheels. Personally I would go for a set of each 😬 AMMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted April 14, 2004 Share Posted April 14, 2004 Ammo - the silencer we spoke of made 96.5 Db @ 4500 @ 0.5 m yesterday Cheers dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMMO Posted April 14, 2004 Share Posted April 14, 2004 Don't change the subject. Do you want two sets of Ti nuts or not 🤔 😬 AMMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted April 14, 2004 Author Share Posted April 14, 2004 Remember me, I started this thread and I would like some new nuts too please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Flatters Posted April 15, 2004 Share Posted April 15, 2004 Depending on cost I would like a set of Ford ones. Just for info, I had a batch (260 approx) of stainless steel sleeve nuts and washers made for my MB wheels last year by a friend in Denmark. We costed these out and sold them for £2.50/nut. By the time we actually got the nuts and had them polished they were more like £5. They were the muts nuts (so to speak) but a bit pricey. *arrowright*Harry Flatters *arrowright* AKA Steve Mell of Su77on Se7ens and Surrey Joint AO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Flatters Posted April 21, 2004 Share Posted April 21, 2004 Ammo, any update on your titanium nuts yet *arrowright*Harry Flatters *arrowright* AKA Steve Mell of Su77on Se7ens and Surrey Joint AO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMMO Posted April 21, 2004 Share Posted April 21, 2004 My CNC man has the samples and drawings. Just waiting for a quote for the machine work. I have to get some titanium bar stock to him as he has to see how it machines. I have made 1mm wall thickness sleeves out of 6Al4V on a lathe in the past with no problems. Machinists all get a bit funny when they hear the word titanium. I have asked for an initial quote for 80 Barnby and 80 Ford nuts just to get an idea of price. The numbers can be adjusted once I know who is having what. AMMO Edited by - AMMO on 21 Apr 2004 10:28:10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Flatters Posted April 21, 2004 Share Posted April 21, 2004 Cheers Ammo, for the quick response. Will await prices. *arrowright*Harry Flatters *arrowright* AKA Steve Mell of Su77on Se7ens and Surrey Joint AO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chelspeed Posted May 18, 2004 Share Posted May 18, 2004 Any response yet? Or is too horrendous to post.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMMO Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 Chelspeed I haven't forgotten. Still working on this. It is turning out a bit more complicated than expected. We will need titanium in two different diameters for the two different types of nut . The titanium comes in various lengths and sold by the kilo. Working out the actual cost depends on how much wastage we are going to have. Still waiting for a reply from my CNC man. I will post as soon as I have a definate price. AMMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMMO Posted June 2, 2004 Share Posted June 2, 2004 Seemed to have drawn a blank. The CNC man is not interested as he says the material is too tough and cannot estimate tool wear. Will keep trying. Getting my car back on the road is a priority so this may take some time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chelspeed Posted June 2, 2004 Share Posted June 2, 2004 Fairy snuff. Thanks for trying anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie_pank Posted June 2, 2004 Share Posted June 2, 2004 I think I must be being very ignorant here, but am curious to know what the difference is in this conversation between a "nut" and a "stud". Is a "stud" just a nut, that's closed at one end. BTW. A combination of my (not very) ham-fistedness, and, I suspect the pneumatic wrench the last time I got the tyres changed, I have 1 completedly stripped "stud". To avoid a repeat of the panic that I had at 7:15 last Friday evening, before setting out for Knockhill on Saturday morning, what is the recommended torque for these puppies? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted June 2, 2004 Share Posted June 2, 2004 The stud is the threaded bar that sticks through the hole in the wheel and the nut is the bit that you twist onto it! Roadsport build photo's here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted June 2, 2004 Support Team Share Posted June 2, 2004 Charlie - 55 lbft is the correct torque. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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