Modena Posted April 5, 2004 Share Posted April 5, 2004 Need to remove dampers to replace with freestyle but the lower fixing is so tight I am afraid of snapping the bolt It's only a 7/32 allan key The car is nearly new Jan 2004. Do Caterham locktight these in ! How much torque can a 7/32 set screw take ? Anyone any recent experience ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted April 5, 2004 Share Posted April 5, 2004 Build manual states 15lbft (20Nm) torque on that bolt, so shouldn't be stupid tight. I would squirt some WD40 in overnight and take it gently... Guy See some pictures of the build here. First 1000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted April 5, 2004 Share Posted April 5, 2004 WD40 liberally every day for a few days. should come undone, but I've heard some horror stories. Fit a new caphead bolt and sleeve if corroded, and plug the hole with grease. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted April 6, 2004 Share Posted April 6, 2004 And yes the build manual says use loctite IIRC. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted April 6, 2004 Share Posted April 6, 2004 They are 12.9 spec. One of mine came out easily the other didn't. Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here My racing info site here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted April 6, 2004 Share Posted April 6, 2004 My Assembly Manual (2003) does not ask for Loctite on this bolt... See some pictures of the build here. First 1000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modena Posted April 6, 2004 Author Share Posted April 6, 2004 Thanks guys so what do I do if it's loctited ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted April 6, 2004 Share Posted April 6, 2004 Good luck on this one Modena! We had the same issue when we changed our dampers a few weeks ago. I doubt ours had been undone since the car was made almost 10 years ago - but apparently it is always a nightmare undoing them. We cut an allen key down (after breaking one socket thing) and attacked it with an air gun for hours - soaked it in release spray, used a socket and bar - the lot. In the end the only way we managed to get it out was LOTS of heat. This obviously stripped all paint, and melted the old dampers bushes (no problem as we were replacing anyway) Red metal and the air gun gradually got the thing out. Big fear was shearing the bolt, but they were ok. Loctite had been used - most say use copper grease instead. One problem was that the bolts had attached themselves to the inner sleeve of the damper bush - so as you turned the head it just turned the whole lot without actually winding out. When I asked the same question a few weeks ago it seems some people end up having to buy new wishbones 😳 Good luck! NEW Nurburgring Pictures posted here 55,000miles in 2.5 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted April 6, 2004 Share Posted April 6, 2004 Mine was stuck and I knackered the allen head - had to heat the wishbone where the thread is with a blow torch then it came out. Of course, I had the re powdercoat the wishbone after this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powderpuff Posted April 6, 2004 Share Posted April 6, 2004 Use an impact wrench after soaking in WD40 for a couple of days (the bolt not the impact wrench!)...that's what was needed to get mine out 😳 Alex, I've just had a scary thought...you with a blowtorch.... 😳 The name's Puff, Powder Puff N7XTC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted April 6, 2004 Share Posted April 6, 2004 WD40 is not nearly as effective as a proper dismantling lubricant such as PlusGas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modena Posted April 6, 2004 Author Share Posted April 6, 2004 Please someone tell me It's not going to be a problem And mean it !!! I don't want to heat the wishbone to the point I wreck the powder finish Will a small amount of heat help ? bearing in mind the car was only built by caterham just before christmas so the think can't be rusted in yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted April 6, 2004 Share Posted April 6, 2004 IMHO - heat application is a last resort when all else fails. Make sure you have an accurately fitting allen key; either a standard or socket type. A socket type would be better. Beg or borrow enough extensions for your wrench/bar to clear the front wheel - a 1/2 inch drive knuckle bar would be better for more leverage. CAUTION: When applying torque there will be some twisting obvious before the bolt loosens - if too much torque is applied it may be possible for the bolt to break - this would be BAD NEWS - If in doubt, do not apply too much torque. This is very touchy feely and you may be better-off consulting an experienced mechanic. Try to position the bar horizontal and with a good stance, smoothly apply torque rather than jerk it. If it doesn't "break", gently apply progressively more torque until it does come undone. Always make sure the allen key is well seated during the procedure. I undid mine last weekend with an ordinary allen key, having applied copper grease during assembly 12 months ago. Using an impact wrench can possibly lead to damaging the hole in the bolt - better to use a long bar with extensions 😬 BRG Summertime Brooklands SV 😬 It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Edited by - Tony C on 6 Apr 2004 12:45:26 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted April 6, 2004 Share Posted April 6, 2004 I knackered mine using a impact wrench. ECR cut the bolt either side of the damper, cut a groove into the remaining bolt, heated everything up and took it out with a screwdriver. He also took out a headbolt with a hammer and a chisel once! The man is a mechanical God when it comes to sorting out the disasters I seem to cause from time to time! PP - imagine me armed with a rigid sigmoidoscope! - If you don't know what one of those is, type it into google... I use a socket type allen head on a breaker bar nowadays and slowly ease it off. It seems to work well. Edited by - Alex Wong on 6 Apr 2004 13:38:09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted April 6, 2004 Share Posted April 6, 2004 Just had another thought... This bolt is inserted with the car on axle stands. Are you trying to undo it whilst it's on it's wheels? Hopefully not, as the suspension will collapse when (if) you get it out Guy See some pictures of the build here. First 1000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted April 6, 2004 Share Posted April 6, 2004 Guy's correct, but it might be more stable if you keep the car on its wheels while making the initial "break" of the lock, as it were. Then take the weight off the wheels before undoing the bolt further. BRG Summertime Brooklands SV 😬 It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonP Posted April 6, 2004 Share Posted April 6, 2004 Been here....new wishbone I'm afraid. Lots of copperslip on reassembly! Good Luck! JonP No longer Sevenless....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nifty Posted April 7, 2004 Share Posted April 7, 2004 Are you widetrack or standard Modena? I have a pair of standard lower wishbones, that have just been repowder coated, available if you want them, complete with new spherical joints and damper mounting bolts. Nifty. Keep off the straight and narrow 😬 Edited by - Nifty on 7 Apr 2004 19:04:03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianrm Posted April 7, 2004 Share Posted April 7, 2004 Did mine recently - soaked liberally in Plusgas and used a good quality socket with extention - no bother at all. See it can happen! best of luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modena Posted April 7, 2004 Author Share Posted April 7, 2004 gone for the plusgas route over 2 days a 7/32 drive to 1/2 inch with a big extention lots of crossed fingers Going for it tommorow pm Thanks all Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nov-07 Posted April 8, 2004 Share Posted April 8, 2004 Yes - but! Where can you buy an Imperial Allen Key socket to fit? None of the major suppliers now seem to stock them, as I discovered when building my SV recently However, C******* said "use an Allen key - they are not likely to come undone anyway" 😬 TonyK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modena Posted April 8, 2004 Author Share Posted April 8, 2004 All sorted no problems in the end the lower front fixing was easy Now have my freestyle units on it took me less than 3 hours in total The old damper units are on the for sale section ! Thanks for all the advice and yes you can get a 7/32 allen socket you Just need a good supplier feeling much better now going out for a beer Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted April 8, 2004 Share Posted April 8, 2004 Dave Glad it's sorted Guy See some pictures of the build here. First 1000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted April 8, 2004 Share Posted April 8, 2004 Good-oh 😬 BRG Summertime Brooklands SV 😬 It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted April 9, 2004 Share Posted April 9, 2004 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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