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Checking levels


Al Crickmore

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Pretend I'm a complete moron (easy if you have met me) who's never looked under the bonnet of my Seven.

 

1. When do I check the oil? Hot or Cold? If I check it coldish (30 mins after a hours long drive) it's about 5-8mm below the Max line on the dipstick. What should I top it up with (should I need to)?

 

2. How do I know when the coolant needs topping up? If I take the cap off I see a valve below with two pipes above, one leading to the Rad and one to the Overflow. ]

 

Help ! !

 

 

 

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Well at least you now know where to look. wink.gif

 

I always check my oil when its cold, your 30 minute cooling down period would be ok. Topping up depends upon whats in the engine. We could open a can of worms here but I'm on Mobil 1 cos thats what Roger King recommended. At the next change I might go to Comma but only because she looks tasty. Some will talk about older oils etc etc etc etc. Yawn yawn boring teeth.gif

The valve is hopefully the thermostat which needs to be under water. I top up until the stuff runs into the overflow then put the cap back on but you may have to check for air locks. Sometimes I give the pipes a good squeezing, they seem to like it and all the wind comes to the surface. Sad arnt I, but content and happy. thumbsup.gif

OOps on the oil level front I've always gone for just below or on the full mark on the basis that when its full it should be content. teeth.gif

 

 

Edited by - John E on 8 May 2001 16:57:19

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Well that's worrying because the thermostat is not covered and I'd hazzard a guess and say it's been that way for a little while at least. I'll sort that out right away. Temp gauge in the car has been sitting happily at 80 deg. Is this right? Or Is it reading wrong seeing as the thermostat is dry?

 

As for the oil, I'll go with what Roger King says. That man knows his stuff. She IS nice though isn't she.

 

Would you recommend an Oil change before I start topping it up then?

 

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Its probably ok cos the water will expand. Top it up till the excess runs into the catch tank. The temp is fine at 80 degrees. If its a car thats new to you then i would change the oil and filter to be on the safe side. Even If your car is a factory built sprint then i would still go for a good quality oil such as Moibil or Comma.

 

If you want to chat give me a call. My mobile is 07770 274456

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I would like to give an endorsement to the use of Comma Oil, having recently changed from Mobil 1. My car has always suffered from rattly hydraulic cam followers....a 16V XE engine...but since the change to Comma SynerG.....silence. Bloody wonderful!

 

Nothing much to do with HER but a good product, sensibly priced.

 

I shouldn't say this on an open forum but I contacted Comma recently with a simple query using their website. I got an e mailed response within minutes, followed by a bundle of publicity brochures, stickers etc in the post and a smashing T shirt with a blue( the only colour for a Seven!) R500 on the front.

 

As I said a good firm to deal with nothing at all to do with HER.

 

By the way John, did you get to Oulton on Monday?

 

Andrew.

 

Edited by - Andrew Russell on 9 May 2001 08:16:21

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Al, if your coolant systems seems to be loosing coolant check all hoses are tight, especially the top end of the bottom main hose. This can weep and not be visible because the engine heat dries it off before you can see it. Give them all a good tweek with a spanner or screwdriver and top up till it starts to overflow into bottle, The bottle should be about 1/4 full.

 

I use Comma XT 2000, seems good, in my s/sprint 1700x/f. Beware when filling up not to overfill. If you have the yellow plastic dipstic, thats o.k., but the old ford modified ones can be confusing. DO NOT FILL TO THE MAX MARK on the old Ford metal ones (it should have been removed anyway but sometimes isn't). I recalibrated mine by giving a complete oil change with new filter and filling with just over 3 litres of oil. I then marked the stick and keep it just above this. I believe capacity is 3.3 litres. As i use mine as a road car I have not found it critical, and maintain pressure at 4/5 even when hot.

 

Happy Motoring thumbsup.gif C7 WJW.

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Okay, so now Im worried. I topped the oil up to the MAX line last night and have driven maybe fifteen miles since. Not being able (or having the tools yet) to change the oil myself, can I take the car to any rapid-fit type place and get it changed?

 

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Firstly dont worry. Unless its significantly overfilled there will be no problem. You could drain a small amount out of the sump or go to the local "we'll do it for you" outfit and start from scratch and fill as per the above or the info I faxed you. Where are you located. If your near me in M/C I'll change it for you.
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I'm in Essex (Chelmsford). sad.gif

 

I think I'll go and get it done somewhere tomorrow. Not going to risk it myself. Need a better dipstick too! ! !

 

Is it healthy to stress over a car this much?

 

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Healthy, definately not.

Normal, unfortunately yes. It must be some kind of latent disease that affects 7 owners.

Seriously though changing the oil is very simple. You will need a suitable recepticle for the old oil and something to help you remove the old oil filter. there is a tool available which consists of a chain/hook device which wraps around the filter and as you turn it tightens and unscrews the filter. If your very heavy handed you can push a screwdriver through the bottom of the filter and use that as a t bar. It may be possible to remove by hand.

Run the engine to working temp. Place the receiving dish under the drain hole then remove the sump plug with a suitable size ring spanner and then remove the filler cap. Warm oil will drain freely. When this is complete remove the filter.

Once the sump has finished draining replace the plug after first cleaning it and if its magnetic remove any swarf. Take the new filter, fill it with new oil and put some oil on the rubber gasket, screw in until its tight, this should be done by hand only.

When the filter is in and the sump plug tightened then you can pour in the requisite amount of oil. Dead easy and should take no more than 30 mins in total. The total oil fill given above should include the filter.

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Phew. Thought you lot might be the same (worse).

 

I might try that if I'm feeling brave in the morning, otherwise it's over to you Rapid-Fit.

 

If it was significantly overfilled then would it register on the oil guage? It went up to 4 to start and seemed to stay there even under idle but after a few miles dropped to 3ish between changes and 4 under acceleration....?

 

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No it wouldnt register on the guage unless there was none in there and then it would read 0 and hardly move at all. If it was significanly overfilled then it will either blow out of the breather or be seen as blue smoke in your trail. your pressure sounds fine so dont worry, just get used to having mucky hands, broken or missing nails and no cash. Welcome to the world of 7's.

Havnt you got an area meeting soon cos if you have there will surely be someone who can advise.

If you still have my number then feel free to give me a call.

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Al,

 

4 is about right for cold oil, or with decent revs. Once the oil has warmed up the pressure at idle will drop significantly - probably down to 2 or even close to 1 if its really hot and thin stuff (0/xx or 5/xx)

 

Dave H

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