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Simon

 

If your car was originally supplied with ACB10's I think you may need to change the Dedion ears at the rear. ACB10's normally only use 0.5 deg neg whereas A032's being radial will need nearer 1-1.5 deg neg. I think that there is a mark on the ears which indicates the camber they have been machined to.

 

The front will also need to change. ACB10's would usually use about 0.5-1.0 deg neg. A032's will probably best perform with 1.5 deg neg depending on ARB and spring rate.

 

I used A032's on my last 7 and I think they are a great tyre. Very predictable with bags of grip.

 

Good luck.

 

Andy

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From a setup for slicks on the front to a 1.5 deg neg camber you need ~3 turns in on the top links. This was for 021's.

 

I tried one more turn and that was great in the twisty bits but suffered from kick back on our incredibly poor roads (after all the flooding and frost damage. Noone seems to be repairing anything these days)!

 

My rears have always been the 1.5 degree one and the slicks ran ok....

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My car was sent back to caterham a while ago, and they did a bit of fidling with the suspension as I was getting loads of under steer. I will have to get hold of them and find out just what they did.

 

I dont think I will go all the way to Notts for a set up! You must be mad!

 

So how do I check what camber setting I am at now? I take it the "ears" are not the only adjustable part?

 

Ta

 

Simon.

 

X777CAT

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Simon,

If you want a more local suspension expert, I can recommend Allan Staniforth of Terripin Services, based at Pateley Bridge. You will find his number in any good motorsprt directory(Autosport?)

 

I gave his details to John E last year and he seemed well impressed by the service provided.

 

Not a specific Caterham expert, but exceedingly well up in the field of suspension technology.....and quite a character as well!!!!

 

Andrew

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>>>I take it the "ears" are not the only adjustable part?

 

On the rear the ears are the only thing we should be adjusting. Do not be tempted to shim them the ali plate needs the full face of the De dion tube for support. Otherwise they can fail.

 

Up front it's a different story. There you can adjust, camber, toe, bump steer with shims, and even castor with shims. I do not think that newer Caterham's in general need the later two adjustments. Some early series 3's (1974'ish) lhd variants had bad bumpsteer problems due to wrong rack positioning when developed. This prob was corrected.

 

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Forgot to mention adjustment.

 

Providing you have standard De dion ears 1.5 degrees normal. If you park up on flat ground (it has to be flat) you can compare the camber of the fronts and rears by eye or a spirit level with angle bubble. Be sure to place a block of wood against the wheel rim and then the spirit level as the tyre bulge at the bottom with throw things out if you use the tyre...

Running radials then 1.5 degrees camber all round is reasonable. So set the fronts up as the rears.

An ACB10 or slick set up car will have much less camber the wheels are noticbly vertical.

 

As for Toe then a run over gauge at the local garage is ok. 19mm and 11mm spanners are needed and adjust both sides or your steering wheel will be off centre.

 

Anything from 0.5 degrees toe out for track work to 0 is possible. Road users tend to favour 0 or a very little. Play around and see how the car handling is affected by say a 1/4 turn on both sides.

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