prs Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 OK so I've stripped my 1.6 and removed all pistons and liners etc. I've measured everything with a dial caliper and nothing is worn. However the liners are obviously glazed, original honing marks are still visible (engine done 12000mls). My intention is to re-use the pistons and liners and therefore I wish to glaze bust the liners before putting them back in. I've got a glaze buster but have not done this process before and would welcome any advice, is it best to lubricate with something like WD40 etc. On reassembly I was going to use Blue Hylomar for the liner sealant. The plan is to re-build with HD Bearings, fully ported head with standard valves skimmed 20thou, QED375H cams, DTH TB's, Powerspeed 4.2.1 and programmable ECU. I'm hoping to achieve 170BHP will let you know when it's all complete. Phil S7 SVN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted February 5, 2004 Leadership Team Share Posted February 5, 2004 Phil, It's a 2 man job doing the liners. Whilst somebody holds it securely, spray the inside with WD40, then with the "stone brush" in the drill, move it in and out of the liner probably 20 times (spinning of course!) in reasonably rapid succesion. This should break the surface glazing. Watch out becayse the liner gets warm Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prs Posted February 5, 2004 Author Share Posted February 5, 2004 Cheers Stu, yet another case then of saying to my other half can you come and hold this it won't take too long honest!!!! Phil S7 SVN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted February 5, 2004 Leadership Team Share Posted February 5, 2004 Don't forget the in and out bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 And the' Too hot to Handle' 😬 Riding Donkey's, in Search of Ponies.! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 Phil, Dont use a paralell three stone honer, only a flex-honer will do the job properly. Move the honer up and down rapidly to achieve the correct 45 degree cross hatch plateau finish. If you can't get access to one I have one here. Cheers Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prs Posted February 6, 2004 Author Share Posted February 6, 2004 Thanks all, Oily I have actually got to types. One is the 3 legged version which I felt was going to be to aggressive. The other one I've got is from a friend at the local garage, it consists of a central stem and then dozens of small balls at the end of wires coming from this stem. This seems more user friendly is this the type your referring to when you say a flex honer? They've had it for years and swear by it! Will be in touch soon Dave to place order for parts etc Phil S7 SVN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 45 degree cross hatched Oily? That's interesting, ISTR it always used to be about 30 degrees off horizontal in each case so the resulting angle between the hones (the cross hatching) was about 120 degrees. Has that thinking moved on a bit? ISTR that it was all based on ring sealing and oil retention theory at the time, but oil and material technology moves on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted February 6, 2004 Share Posted February 6, 2004 Phil, The one you describe is indeed a flex honer, just the job. AFAIK a 45 degree cross hatch is normally considered ideal and is the factory spec. and rthat ecommended by the flex-hone manufacturer, 30 degrees is better than parallel though. oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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