jpotter Posted April 15, 2001 Share Posted April 15, 2001 I am having a popper nightmare week, my beloved other half managed to tear the popper of the passenger side bottom where it attaches to the car there is now a hole, I promply did the same thing on the drivers side and a colleague at work helped to remove the tonneau and one of the poppers off the back with it ! Is it possible to screw the internal door fastener ones back in or are they likely to vibrate loose or is it a drill out the popper and re rivet job ? Any ideas on the tonneau popper ? Can you get a poppering kit (does such a thing exist) as I can see this hamfistedness happening again. Ho humm, still smiling, doors swinging on the corners James C7 JDP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS CLARK Posted April 15, 2001 Share Posted April 15, 2001 I have used new pop rivets for some of the extra tonneau fastenings although I have also used small C/S self tappers for others. Take your pick. I suspect it will be a question of inspecting the damage as to how big the hole in the bodywork now is ! PS. Std pop rivet pliers tend to have too big a head on them to fit right inside the pop stud. The result is that the pop rivet stem breaks off OK, but the stud is still not totally tight & can rattle.thumbsdown.gif Best remedy is to use a grinder (or at a pinch a file) to turn some material off the head so as to get the tool right inside the stud.thumbsup.gif Good Luck ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted April 15, 2001 Share Posted April 15, 2001 Yep Chris is right.... Grind the head of the riuvetting tool down, and buy some really long 3/8 rivetts. These will expand more on the reverse side of the panel and reduce the problem. Its best of course if you can get the door strap retaining poppers to rivett through the chassis rail at that point. I dont think the manual shows this. Best overall solution is to chuck all the weather gear away and buy a JPE screen. "Weather gear is for whimps" Arnie Webb The Fat Bloke blush.gif in a not so Slow Vauxhall wink.gif See the R500 eater here See the Le Mans Trip Website here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Gillet Posted April 15, 2001 Share Posted April 15, 2001 On the same subject, I would like to add a popper between the 2 poppers already fitted by Caterham on the scuttle for the passenger side half tonneau ( in an attempt to avoid the half tonneau from "blowing" off at speed). Two points may be difficult: one, the wind screen does not help using an electric drill, and two, I am concerned about hitting a tube of the chassis. Question: is there any chance of hitting a tube of the chassis when drilling on a straight line between the popper close to the zip and the popper on the curved part of the scuttle on the side? Cheers, Pierre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Gillet Posted April 15, 2001 Share Posted April 15, 2001 On the same subject, I would like to add a popper between the 2 poppers already fitted by Caterham on the scuttle for the passenger side half tonneau ( in an attempt to avoid the half tonneau from "blowing" off at speed). Two points may be difficult: one, the wind screen does not help using an electric drill, and two, I am concerned about hitting a tube of the chassis. Question: is there any chance of hitting a tube of the chassis when drilling on a straight line between the popper close to the zip and the popper on the curved part of the scuttle on the side? Cheers, Pierre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Gillet Posted April 15, 2001 Share Posted April 15, 2001 On the same subject, I would like to add a popper between the 2 poppers already fitted by Caterham on the scuttle for the passenger side half tonneau ( in an attempt to avoid the half tonneau from "blowing" off at speed). Two points may be difficult: one, the wind screen does not help using an electric drill, and two, I am concerned about hitting a tube of the chassis. Question: is there any chance of hitting a tube of the chassis when drilling on a straight line between the popper close to the zip and the popper on the curved part of the scuttle on the side? Cheers, Pierre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Gillet Posted April 15, 2001 Share Posted April 15, 2001 On the same subject, I would like to add a popper between the 2 poppers already fitted by Caterham on the scuttle for the passenger side half tonneau ( in an attempt to avoid the half tonneau from "blowing" off at speed). Two points may be difficult: one, the wind screen does not help using an electric drill, and two, I am concerned about hitting a tube of the chassis. Question: is there any chance of hitting a tube of the chassis when drilling on a straight line between the popper close to the zip and the popper on the curved part of the scuttle on the side? Cheers, Pierre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Gillet Posted April 15, 2001 Share Posted April 15, 2001 On the same subject, I would like to add a popper between the 2 poppers already fitted by Caterham on the scuttle for the passenger side half tonneau ( in an attempt to avoid the half tonneau from "blowing" off at speed). Two points may be difficult: one, the wind screen does not help using an electric drill, and two, I am concerned about hitting a tube of the chassis. Question: is there any chance of hitting a tube of the chassis when drilling on a straight line between the popper close to the zip and the popper on the curved part of the scuttle on the side? Cheers, Pierre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Six Posted April 15, 2001 Share Posted April 15, 2001 On the subject of poppers you can pop into any haberdashery shop and buy popper kits (for refurbishment purposes.) Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Plunkett Posted April 15, 2001 Share Posted April 15, 2001 If the hole in the bodywork has been torn and is now too big for a pop rivet try drilling it out and putting in a riv nut. This can now be drilled out to the correct size to take the pop rivet.Sounds complicated but it does work,I know I had the same problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Plunkett Posted April 15, 2001 Share Posted April 15, 2001 If the hole in the bodywork has been torn and is now too big for a pop rivet try drilling it out and putting in a riv nut. This can now be drilled out to the correct size to take the pop rivet.Sounds complicated but it does work,I know I had the same problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS CLARK Posted April 15, 2001 Share Posted April 15, 2001 WARNING:- Rivnuts are great when placed into the correct size hole and pulled up squarely. If they are not 'set' correctly or the hole is slightly oversize the first you know about it is when you go to put the screw in and it 'jams' halfway. Actually, the rivnut starts to turn and then you can't go in or out (ooh err). OK if you can get to the back to hold it, but in a blind area it's 'orrible. Seven years (prophetic ?) in aviation taught me to be very wary of them!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpotter Posted April 15, 2001 Author Share Posted April 15, 2001 Most kind, I'll try the filing down the extra long rivet and replace it to see fi that works, thanks for the help. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark.hall Posted April 15, 2001 Share Posted April 15, 2001 When setting rivnuts, I always use a dab of Araldite or chemical metal. I haven't had one come loose yet, and the oldest ones are getting on for 11 years service. Do get them straight though!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpotter Posted April 16, 2001 Author Share Posted April 16, 2001 Most kind, I'll try the filing down the extra long rivet and replace it to see fi that works, thanks for the help. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted April 16, 2001 Share Posted April 16, 2001 To save all the hassel of checking the hole size , re riveting etc , I just used chemical metal to stick the popper to the bodywork . Works fine and is very strong . This method is also handy if you are not sure what is on the other side of the body work - Pierre . Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted April 16, 2001 Share Posted April 16, 2001 Sorry - "overflow " problem again !! Dave Edited by - Dave J on 16 Apr 2001 07:55:51 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KayTee Posted April 16, 2001 Share Posted April 16, 2001 Hi ! Instead of butchering your rivet gun's head in order to get it insode the popper correctly, you could also just place a small-size nut over the rivet's nail. Finding a nut small enough to go inside the popper, and yet big enough to fit over the nail, should not be a problem (after all, the rivet-head has to fit inside the popper, as well). Presto, the rivet-gun presses against the nut, pressing against the rivet-head. No potentially weakened tool due to butchered front case. If you're brave, try getting a stainless and rather long-clamping rivet. No corrosion problems and 'fit and forget'. Depending upon size it may well be impossible to rivet those with any normal manual tool, however (I am curently fitting 2 petrol and a brake line, as well as the rear part of my wiring loom, into my tunnel, using 'NORMA' p-clamps. which have 6.5mm fitting holes, so 6.4 rivets are mandatory sad.gif But then we stock a neat akku-driven tool called the PowerBird, which can rivet 8mm stainless day in and out teeth.gif ) GOOD LUCK ! smile.gif Regards - Karsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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