david nelson Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 I am changing my exhaust and need help to get the manifold out. It a K series The manifold has been undone and is of the studs but the water rail and chassie bar are in the way. Do I remove engine mounts both sides, lift engine with a jack, remove chassie bar and pull? advice please thanks David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted January 24, 2004 Share Posted January 24, 2004 Are the chassis bars ( I assume you mean the diagnal brace) on your car removable? On ours car, a 96 k, they un bolt at both ends. If so, its pretty easy to take the one above the manifold out, and remove the manfold. I had to change exhausts for 24hrs (MOT!) recently, and could not get one end of this brace undone. With one end undone, it JUST flexed enough to get the manifold out, but there was blood, sweat and tears, and it only came out one way. ISTR that later braces were welded in? In which case, can't help you I am afraid. I'm pretty sure you do not need to de-mount the engine, but I could be wrong. NEW pictures posted here 50,000miles in 2 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael_E Posted January 24, 2004 Share Posted January 24, 2004 Not likely I think, I've had my exhaust off a few times and never had to lift the engine out. A picture would give us a better idea. Is it a problem of the floor getting in the way (ie raise the car on stands and the exhaust may have more clearance). C7 MLE The Furry Fast Car Currently wondering what colour fur for 2004? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted January 24, 2004 Share Posted January 24, 2004 oh look Michael - we typed that at exactly the same time! ISTR you have an SV Michael (either that or I have got your cartoon VERY wrong - did you notice the 3 wipers by the way 😬) so I suspect you have a little more room in the engine bay - prepared to be corrected on that of course. I think I tried to pull the manifold out from underneath, ISTR things like alternator and engine mount getting in the way - and the starter as well I think. NEW pictures posted here 50,000miles in 2 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david nelson Posted January 24, 2004 Author Share Posted January 24, 2004 Thanks for the advice The diagnal brace is removable so I will give this a go. The time to cut a hole in the panneland fit the new exhuast. I will let you know how I get on. thanks David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david nelson Posted January 25, 2004 Author Share Posted January 25, 2004 all fits and working. what the next job? thanks for you help David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted January 25, 2004 Share Posted January 25, 2004 Anybody doing this next time just remove the studs from the cylinder head & the manifold should come out easily. Removing the diagonal is not always necessary but makes access easier. Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyR Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 I started to remove my exhaust manifold today (1.6 SL). Removed the water rail and manifold studs, but still cannot get the manifold out. I have the fixed diagonal. Any suggestions. TonyR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 Have you unscrewed the studs from the head? If so it's often a case of rotating the manifold around to get it out at the best angle. I think when I did it I had the starter motor removed as well, but I have a removeable diagonal. If this still doesn't work then you may have to undo the LHS engine mount & raise the engine on a jack a fraction. Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dd1961 Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 Hmmmm...seems to have been a popular job this weekend. In my case, I removed the diagonal chassis rail, and tilted the engine slghtly by undoing one engine mount and jacking up the block. Worked a dream. Mind you, I hadn't thought about removing the studs, that sounds like a much better solution!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 If you have the standard 4-1 (inside engine bay join) , then you need to remove the diagonal bar and you remove the engine manifold studs . The 4-1 (outside engine bay join) then you dont have to remove anything . Top tip - saw 20mm off the studs before refitting the manifold - this allows easy removal in future Dave Lotus 7 Club Speed Champion 2003 South Wales Area Organiser C7 TOP Edited by - Dave Jackson on 2 Feb 2004 11:48:18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyR Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 Got tall he studs out but my diagonal bar is the fixed type. Looks like I may have to move the engine slightly. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyR Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 Got tall he studs out but my diagonal bar is the fixed type. Looks like I may have to move the engine slightly. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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