Nifty Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 What is the best method for removing the corrosion (the white deposits at various contact points with the chassis rails) on my body panels ready to supply them to Arch to refit to my chassis? Cheers, Nifty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 There are two main methods Mechanical.. wire brush, wet/dry etc. Chemical.. application of dilute phosphoric acid such as 'Ali brite' or 'Wonder wheels' or similar. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelw Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 Nifty, sorry for the hijack but along similar lines, will any of the Chemical solutions work with 2 alluminium parts that are (I think) corroded together. I have adjustable suspension that is seized, although I didn't think aluminium suffered from corrosion in this way. This may sound a stupid question but does it normally require a lot of force to seperate 2 aluminium components that are seized together (all things being equal)? Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Woods Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 Nifty - arent you having the frame stripped and recoated ? It seems like false economy not to (although I know you want to keep costs down) Nick Red and Black 1.6K supersport Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 Michael, you are in for some fun and games. Any metal components stuck together by corrosion will be a bas trd. You may need heat or chemical assistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nifty Posted January 21, 2004 Author Share Posted January 21, 2004 Nick, yes I am having the frame blasted and recoated but I am thinking of keeping some of the internal aluminium panels to keep the costs down, though increasingly getting tempted into a complete repanelling job!! Keep off the straight and narrow 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted January 22, 2004 Share Posted January 22, 2004 Nifty, recommend a scratchy nylon pad in the angle grinder - not too aggressive but will remove the chalky deposits and leave a dull shine suitable for ally primer and topcoat of choice. If it turnsinto a doily then you sadly know the answer - rivet a bit of shed roof on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted January 22, 2004 Share Posted January 22, 2004 For light corrosion try WD40 with steelwool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsn Posted January 22, 2004 Share Posted January 22, 2004 I would advise against steel wool as the steel element will remain in the aluminium and cause pitting at a later date. ☹️ Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian 1800 Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 Easiest solution is to buy a Westfield What aluminium corroson problem, just shiny gel coated GPS body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YW Sin Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 I have nothing against WestField but, aluminum dispite of its ability to corrode and fragility, having a real metal sheet on a cautomobile adds certain value. Personally,I think Caterham will be a lot less of an attractive object with out its metal skins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Woods Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 What aluminium corroson problem, just shiny gel coated GPS body errr, whats the floor of your car made of ?? My washing up bowl doesnt corrode either but you wont catch me driving it .... *wink* 😬 Nick Red and Black 1.6K supersport Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Durrant Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 Nick 😬 😬 😬 Mark D Su77on Se7ens Making plans for the 2004 Sprint Season Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taran Las Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 Nifty Boy, You wouldn't have this problem if you had a nice Xflow spewing oil everywhere 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 Philip. D. Owen Membership No. 3976 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS CLARK Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 Note that if you use the wire brush route it needs to be BRASS not steel. Same for the rotary ones. This is 'cos when the inevitable bristles come out and get where you can't see 'em they don't corrode the same as steel. Also, brass brushes are less aggresive so you can remove corrosion and still have material left at the end! Etch primer over the freshly cleaned parts will protect until the top coat/whatever is applied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS CLARK Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 Edited by - CHRIS CLARK on 23 Jan 2004 18:05:36 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Willis Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 Nifty, If you do go down the chemical route (I have no idea if it works, but oily's never wrong) they have big containers (4 litres?) of Wonder Wheels very cheap in Costco. Cheers, Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now