brake pedal pressure - no lights!

[olij]

The brake pedal on my live axle 1600 xflow requires maximum pressure to make the brake lights come on. Please could someone let me know how this is altered so that less pressure is required before the lights come on, or are they all like that!?

 

Many thanks in advance

oli

[PACR]

There's a little bracket at the top of the brake pedal that holds a switch - very much like the one in the door frame that puts the light on in tin-tops. As you push the pedal it releases the plunger that makes a contact - the body is threaded with a locking nut arrangement. Slacken and adjust it so it comes on with slight foot pressure - much better to have it come on too soon than too late. You might need to tweak the bracket (ie bend it a bit) if you've adjusted the pedal positions much.

 

Piers

[CHRIS CLARK]

All info. correct. Get to the brake pedal area via the 'chopped off pyramid cover that is screwed down in the eng. bay!!!

[Pierson Broome]

Um, this depends on the age of the car, I think.

 

My 1987 pedalbox cover-less de-Dion has an in-line pressure switch rather than the aforementioned plunger - a Lucas part, from memory - and has required changing a couple of times due to this same problem - either excessive pressure needed to bring on the lights or even no brake lights at all.

 

It's a threaded switch with two bayonets plumbed into the brake line - easy enough to remove and re-install a new one (& cheap, too) but be careful about losing brake fluid and having to bleed the circuits afterwards. It can be done without having to do so if you're quick during the swap, but just be aware.

 

If your car doesn't have the 'plunger', look for the threaded switch with two wires attached to it instead.

 

Pierson

 

Edited by - Pierson Broome on 4 Apr 2001 04:47:51

[John E]

Spot on. The earlier cars certainly have an in line pressure switch which is easy to replace following Pierson's instructions.

[Casbar]

Changed my pressure switch a couple of months ago. Got the switch from Caterham. My car is a 91 live axle.

 

Easy to change.

 

Rgds

[Simos]

90/91 cars also have the inline pressure switch which is a bog standard lucas part available from your local motorfactors or halfords wehoever works out cheapest. I ended up replacing mine at 6 mthly intervals for a couple of years and then either whatever was causing them to fail stopped, or I got a good one 'cos I've had it for 5 years now...

 

This is no doubt why CC changed to the contact switch solution. If I could change cheaply, I would.

 

Cheers, Simon.

[CHRIS CLARK]

Simon,

Mentioning it hasn't failed for 5 yrs is surely the kiss of death to it now!!!

[kirium]

Interesting reading - I also suffer from the same problem :( Does anyone know the actual Lucus part number? I work next door to a Halfords so I may go and buy some today if I know the right part to get!

 

Regards

 

Edited by - kirium on 5 Apr 2001 09:09:33

[Chairman Roger]

Try

 

Hydraulic brake stop switch: Lucas switch 2SH SPB401

 

Roger

[J.R.]

Push down as hard as you can on the brake pedal for about 30 seconds & you may then find th switch works fine for a long while, whereupon repeat the procedure. - works every time with my hydraulic switch. I think the problem is that the contacts are self wiping but as much pedal pressure is (usually) used to stop a 7 as opposed to an old unservoed car.

 

[Simos]

Hi Chris,

you're right I should've been a little more circumspect "has worked for an acceptable period" or some such. I shall be trying J.R's solution if it does decide to spite me. In fact as I tend to go to track days a bit more regularly now and spend a day standing on the fast and slow pedals alternately, I wonder if this has not had the same effect.

 

Cheers, Simon.