Bangers quotNquot Mas1697456953 Posted January 2, 2004 Share Posted January 2, 2004 What's the view on this? Are there any standard patterns or proven layouts? Many moons ago I drilled my 350LC disks, didn't make any difference but it does look good. It's just another winter up-grade If anybody's interested I'll be doing them on a large VMC which will rattle them out at an alarming rate. Whilst it's set, I'd be more than happy to run similar size units (std rear, up-graded fronts) through for a donation to NTL (Not only that, more discs would give me a chance to "Prove" the programme *tongue* ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted January 2, 2004 Share Posted January 2, 2004 Never drill non drilled disks, it causes stresses in the disk which could crack in use. You can replace the standard disks with drilled items, but I have never found a drilled disk for the Caterham uprated disks. Chris.... H15 SVN Get it ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bangers quotNquot Mas1697456953 Posted January 2, 2004 Author Share Posted January 2, 2004 Having peered through many Seven alloys at the show's somebody must be doing them *confused* I suppose we could "normalise" after drilling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swiss_Tony Posted January 2, 2004 Share Posted January 2, 2004 Have you got a rough idea how much lighter a heavily drilled standard type disk would weigh? Not too worried about the safety/braking effiency aspect it just got me thinking James Su77on Se7ens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bare Posted January 3, 2004 Share Posted January 3, 2004 Weight saving?.. just about as much as using 8" rotors.. and just as effective/clever Stop overeating.. faster acceleration and better braking..costs less too 🙆🏻 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Beaumont Posted January 3, 2004 Share Posted January 3, 2004 Back of fag packet calculation. Taking the James Whiting disc as an example, we've got 8 rows of three holes and 8 rows of two in between them. Holes are what, 6mm? That's 0.283 cm^2; 0.311 cm^3 if we assume an 11mm disc. Times 40 holes that's 12.44 cm^3 of metal, which if we take the density of iron at 7.5g/cm^3 means you're looking at roughly 93g per disc. Personally I'd not take the chance over that level of weight saving. OTOH today I'll be machining off the outer 4.5mm of the rear disc (the bit that the pads don't go anywhere near) which by comparison will net me over 200g/side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEVE GILBERT Posted January 3, 2004 Share Posted January 3, 2004 Luke If you drill them(with chamfers) and trim the size its 300g by your calculations. What are you waiting for? Steve See My Old Zetec Power 7 Here. Caterham Fireblade update soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickie Normuss Posted January 3, 2004 Share Posted January 3, 2004 James - NO ❗ Seek forgiveness, not permission. 1700 X-Flow. The sweet sound of carbs!!! see it here Look out, I'm armed and dangerous!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beelzebub Posted January 3, 2004 Share Posted January 3, 2004 Drilling brake disks is a throwback to the days when it was thought that drilling aided water film dispersal. This was necessary because as anyone who had big Jap bike will tell you, applying the brakes in the wet resulted in a heart stopping delay whilst the pads cleared the water from the surface of the disk. From memory it became popular in the early eighties with the big four Japanese bike makers. In practice it did'nt make a blind bit of difference to stopping distance in the wet or dry as the real issue was the pad compound & disk material. I've drilled several bike disks both stainless & cast iron purely for cosmetic reasons & never once had a problem. A cobalt drill comes in handy as the stay sharp for a lot longer than the high speed steel variety. The old adage of "measure twice & cut once" is order of the day when doing this as I've seen several botch jobs with odd holes in the wrong place, which totally spoils the effect. After you've done the marking out drill each hole with a small drill 3-4 mm & then re-check that everything looks right. Once you're happy drill the holes to the final diameter using plenty of cutting lubricant (Rocol)& then chamfer the finished hole on both sides to a depth of about 0.25 mm. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Beaumont Posted January 3, 2004 Share Posted January 3, 2004 Steve - hmmmm, not convinced. Instead I'm going to drill some material from the area between the disc to hub mounting holes. that'll get rid of another 55g/side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS CLARK Posted January 4, 2004 Share Posted January 4, 2004 I have drilled discs fitted that I did from a very good [paper] pattern produced by a well known contibutor to Seven technology (don't want him getting swamped with requests!). Work well. Sound good (sort of Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz) and look good. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted January 5, 2004 Share Posted January 5, 2004 Try this. I'm afraid it blows the cover of our "well known contributor", but seeing as AMMO has done it, and he seems to know what he's doing, it may help with this discussion........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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