Gridgway Posted November 29, 2003 Share Posted November 29, 2003 You know that they are a bit of a bar-steward to bolt back up as the nyloc turns the taper in the hole (esp with new nuts)? Well is there any reason not to use nuts with nyloc ground off plus loctite? Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted November 29, 2003 Share Posted November 29, 2003 How about running the nyloc over a thread first then using them plus some thread lock? JAT Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castrol Posted November 29, 2003 Share Posted November 29, 2003 Graham, I have found if you put pressure on the bottom of the upright, using a second jack, thus placing pressure on the taper section the the new nylock should (usually!) go on and the tapered section does not turn with it. Hope that helps, Matt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Tim_ Posted November 29, 2003 Share Posted November 29, 2003 Buy an F clamp from B&Q - does the trick nicely. - Tim - 2004 Caterham Academy competitor build diary here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted November 29, 2003 Author Share Posted November 29, 2003 didn't think of clamping, will try that tomorrow! Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Tim_ Posted November 29, 2003 Share Posted November 29, 2003 Put some tape over the top of the ball joint and underneath the lower suspension mount, and do it up as tight as you can (make sure it keeps vertical otherwise it'll ping off!). I struggled with this until someone imparted this little gem to me! - Tim - 2004 Caterham Academy competitor build diary here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted November 29, 2003 Share Posted November 29, 2003 Thats right, you can see how to do it here. It is a bit fiddly, the nut itself is also hard to get to - but it is worth doing properly, don't just bodge it! See some photo's of my Roadsport build here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted November 29, 2003 Share Posted November 29, 2003 Always found lowered to the ground and a foot in the top link does the trick. Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here My racing info site here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted November 30, 2003 Share Posted November 30, 2003 I have used a ratchet strap around both wishbones to good effect when the taper won't bite Ian Green and Silver Roadsport 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted December 2, 2003 Share Posted December 2, 2003 I always use a non nylock nut to pull the joint together (it spins on by hand) and then remove it (it spins off by hand) and replace it with the nylock and finaly tighten. Saves clamps/tape/etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Cook Posted December 2, 2003 Share Posted December 2, 2003 Yes ECR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted December 3, 2003 Author Share Posted December 3, 2003 I tried that, but even doing the non nyloc up to 40 lbft (QT) and undoing it, the joint still split again! It will have stood for a week at that by this weekend when I will try again to replace the non-nylocs with nylocs! Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted December 3, 2003 Share Posted December 3, 2003 Are you sure that the ball joint has a taper on it 🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted December 3, 2003 Share Posted December 3, 2003 Sounds very unusual...... Did you jack the car under the chassis when you removed the non nylock ? If yes, drop it on its wheels first so the joint is under pressure. Also degrease both the hole in the upright and the taper on the ball joint Edited by - ECR on 3 Dec 2003 13:15:14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted December 3, 2003 Share Posted December 3, 2003 Mine is definitely tapered 😬 My car was still on axle stands when I tightened mine. I did the nyloc nut up until it just started to rotate the balljoint and then applied hand pressure with as much body weight behind (above) it as possible and then continued to gently tighten - no problem. I had applied a VERY small amount of grease to the joint before insertion Once the taper has "bitten" it becomes quite difficult to "break", as I found out when I wanted to replace the cycle wing stay. BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casbar Posted December 3, 2003 Share Posted December 3, 2003 The whole point of the joint, is that the taper is an exact fit, therefore you should be able to do up the nuts, with only slight pressure applied to the top of the joint. Most will do up by just leaning on the top of the joint. If the car is a de-dion all should be well, if its a live axle with trunnions and adj top wishbones, then you will probably find it has the wrong rod end, as the taper on a live axle upright is different to the one on a non trunnion upright. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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