Area Representative Tin Man Posted March 24, 2001 Area Representative Share Posted March 24, 2001 I have just fitted a set of silicone hoses. Does the J hose from the water pump come over the top of the heater hose. question.gif Should have made a note when I took the other hoses off blush.gif Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted March 24, 2001 Share Posted March 24, 2001 Which engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Tin Man Posted March 24, 2001 Author Area Representative Share Posted March 24, 2001 K- Series Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Posted March 25, 2001 Share Posted March 25, 2001 Yes, and the heater hose then runs back under the injection unit and up the back of the engine compartment to the heater valve (assuming the build manual's correct - there's always a first time!) Reg Marjason C7 SEV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted March 25, 2001 Share Posted March 25, 2001 The J-hose can get an easy run forward by going over the heater hose. With the dry sump there is no matter of choice. However you configure it, the most important thing is to bleed the circuit effectively. This is easier with the hose mounted as you have assumed. The following is the method and rationale for how I bleed the k-series cooling system. I don't have a heater, so there may be differences for those who have heaters. When cold, the thermostat is closed. The heater/radiator bypass circuit is separated from the radiator circuit itself. This method fills each circuit separately. Detach the expansion tank from the chassis and remove the lid. Detach the top hose from the radiator. Remove the bleed plug from the radiator. Bend the top radiator hose upwards and start by pouring coolant in here - this will fill the engine and the bypass circuit. When the coolant level reaches the top of the hose, seal your mouth against the hose and blow hard down it - you should notice air and coolant venting into the expansion tank. If you keep blowing for too long, you will empty all the coolant from the engine into the expansion tank (bad) so stop when it looks like you have vented the worst of the air pockets. There is no harm in topping up the hose and having a second go. Try and judge it so that when you are finished the hose is just about empty, but the water rail is full. Reattach the radiator hose to the radiator. Now begin filling the expansion tank. This will drain into the submarine pipe, j-pipe and radiator, filling the radiator circuit. The air pockets in the submarine pipe and j-pipe can be vented to the expansion tank by squeezing and stretching the pipes up and down. The radiator will fill and vent air out of the bleed. A refinement of this method is to have a length of clear plastic tube placed in the radiator bleed. When the radiator is full, the coolant will show itself in the pipe and won't gush out onto the floor. Having completed the basic fill of the system it is worth spending a bit of time getting the last of the air pockets out. The top radiator hose should have filled as the radiator filled - some air pockets will remain. Squeeze the hose to get them out of the radiator bleed. Raising the car slightly at the front can help get the last of the air out. Using the clear plastic tube method, you will see the air bubble out through the tube. When all the air seems to have come out of the system, raise the expansion tank so that the coolant level is just showing in the tube. Replace the expansion tank cap. Remove the tube and fit the radiator bleed plug. Check all fittings and reattach the expansion tank to the chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Tin Man Posted March 25, 2001 Author Area Representative Share Posted March 25, 2001 Thank`s for the help. took me ages to get the J hose on to the water pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Russell Posted March 25, 2001 Share Posted March 25, 2001 I've just done the same job to my Vauxhall engined car....in case you need to get any other silicone hoses to finish the job off as The 'Samco'sets only include the main hoses.....try Hoses Direct Ltd of Doncaster. They will provide any length of any bore of hose that you might require, in all colours. If you try to get that service from any other supplier they insist that you buy full metre lengths, which can work out very costly. An excellent service and sensible prices.... Tel...01302 711020 Fax...01302 719235 Web...www.hosedirectltd.co.uk Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Tin Man Posted March 25, 2001 Author Area Representative Share Posted March 25, 2001 I bought the 1m long hoses from Rally Design. sad.gif Good service though. Edited by - Tin Man on 25 Mar 2001 21:34:56 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Senior Posted March 26, 2001 Share Posted March 26, 2001 Does anyone who has fitted Jenvey throttle bodies have the part number (if it exists) for the bottom J hose. This has a branch that goes to the water elbow leading from the inlet manifold; the branch has a bore of about 27mm. This replaces the metal submarine hose that Caterham use; I don't want to use this part because it has a branch for the heater that would need to be blocked and also I believe that the branch that goes to the water elbow on the inlet manifold is a much smaller bore. I'm looking for a pipe that will do a neat job with the minimum of jubilee clips. I'm also concerned that it shouldn't foul the pipe that comes up from the dry sump pump that on my car is on the right hand side of the engine. Cheers Andrew Senior Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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