naddy Posted November 26, 2003 Share Posted November 26, 2003 How easy is it to replace the solid (copper?) fuel pipe which runs from the back of the car to the engine bay inside the transmission tunell? Is it possible to get the thing past the gearbox??? or is this a "big job"? It's a k-series with a six speed box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted November 26, 2003 Share Posted November 26, 2003 It depends, if it is held on with clips that have been rivited to the chassis then it's quite hard as access is resricted due to gearbox and propshaft and diff, why are you replacing it, if it has perished then why not leave it in place and run a new line in rubber or plastic and you can hold it in place using tie wraps. Founder Member of The Twisted Prop Club. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naddy Posted November 26, 2003 Author Share Posted November 26, 2003 The threaded collar on the solid pipe at the engine end has split, so I have a leak. I considered having a new 'end' soldered (or whatever) on, but as a whole new pipe was only £11 and will have a new collar it seemed reasonable..... untill I got the car over an inspection pit today and the mechanic started to worry about having to remove the gearbox! So maybe a flexible hose??? Suitable for injection system I guess? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted November 26, 2003 Share Posted November 26, 2003 Would be the cheapest route, or can they not flare the end for you.? Founder Member of The Twisted Prop Club. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted November 26, 2003 Share Posted November 26, 2003 Best way is to replace it from above. 1. Unscrew heater retaining scews and move it as far forward as you can 2. Remove gearknob 3. Remove handbrake gaitor 4. Remove transmission tunnel cover by manipulating it through space vacted by heater 5. Replace fuel line - need to remove rear wheels for access to fuel tank connection Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naddy Posted November 26, 2003 Author Share Posted November 26, 2003 mmm, cunning! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussM Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Long time resurrection of this thread, was this for a centre handbrake car or a under dash handbrake car with a aluminium tunnel cover? I'm part way through replaceing mine and can't see a way in via the heater hole without snagging on the chassis bracing, does it not go in from the rear; i.e needing to take the diff out? Cheers Russ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Are you trying to get the pipe in, or the tunnel top off ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussM Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Hi SM25T, Trying to get a new pipe in, so far tunnel top (plastic/leather) is off, riveted plate rear of tunnel top also off, looks like diff will need to come out? Cheers Russ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Does sound rather extreme ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussM Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Indeed it does..! I can't find any other threads on it though. Diff nearly out now though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted April 8, 2011 Area Representative Share Posted April 8, 2011 Russ Nick Addyy's car is a Superlight with a central handbrake but in the end the garage replaced the pipe for him (it started to leak when undergoing MOT test). If I read correctly, Paul McKenzie seems to be indicating removal of the heater to allow removal of the tunnel top, which seems a hard way to do it, when you can simply adjust the handbrake to allow the lever to assume a vertical position and then remove the tunnel cover. I looks like you have already done this. I nearly had to replace my fuel pipe (there's a new one hanging in the garage), but I managed to get the old one to seal between ordering a new one and it arriving. I did however way up the job and concluded that the only way to do it was from underneath pushing the pipe in from the back and along the transmission tunnel. It does however look like a very fiddly job, probably needing to flex/bend the pipe as you go along. Also probaly easier with 2 pairs of hands i.e. someone to push the pipe through from underneath and someone in the cab to guide along the transmission tunnel. Suggest you tape the brass end to the pipe, so it doesn't slide down. May also be worth threading a piece of string through the tunnel and attaching to the pipe and using the string to help pull the pipe through - just an idea. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussM Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Thanks chaps, Tim's here so there's the additional hands and SWMBO for encouragement..! and passing stuff A frame and DeDion out, just the diff to go. Will keep you posted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Taking the diff out seems a lot of aggro for a simple fuel pipe. If it has to stay as standard, fair enough, but I would have thought running any pipe and attaching it in a mechanically sound fashion (use the original if necessary) would do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussM Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 😬 New pipe in..! 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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