Normans_Ghost Posted October 9, 2003 Author Share Posted October 9, 2003 Thanks Shaun & Hoopy. Andy at RD & I have come to the decision to leave the m/cyl for now and see what it's like. Andy thinks it may be ok as the tandem cylinder has a larger bore than the single. He tried to work it out but I can't find a bore size on the cylinder to work from. Isn't it nice to find a company that says "you may not need to spend this money, try and we shall see". Andy's also concerned that the polyQ pads may squeal on a light car. Told him not to worry, won't be heard much over the exhaust. Total bill is 399-kit, 55-pads, 45-bios valve, & 18-new pipes total with VAT 607 CC would be 646-kit, + 53 -valve+vat total 699. So not that much extra but, in my opionion anyway, I get a larger & vented disc. I'm aware it may not be needed on a lightweight car but I still think bigger is better (so does my lord & master) norman verona 1989 BDR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dino ferrana Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 No need to go bigger! The brakes from Caterham broke the world record for 0-100-0. Only one car has ever stopped faster from 70mph than an R500 and that was a Porsche GT1. Remember bigger is also heavier and that is very important for rotational mass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard J Darnell Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 I recently upgraded my standard roadsport brakes in two stages First the racing master cylinder and then 6 months later the big front brakes. I did the master cylinder first becasue it was cheaper but also because Ratrace had said others had found this to be a good upgrade on its own. The master cylinder with standard brakes makes a big difference - it does result in a much firmer pedal with shorter travel but also provides much more feel. I found this to be a good value upgrade and I almost didn't bother with the big brakes, but upgradeitus go the better of me The big brakes are superb but expensive Intially I did not like the increase in pedal travel that came with the switch but I now think a little more travel allows greater control. The stopping power/feel is certainly improved but in terms of value for money I actually felt I got a bigger improvement from the m/cyl upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philwaters Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 A bit late in on this one, but have you considered Hi-Spec? I don't know what their price is now, but a couple of years ago I paid ~£530 for a pair of their billet 'racing' calipers, 253mm vented discs, GS pads and hoses and fittings.. I wasn't sure how long the pipes had to be so made them myself, but they'll do that for you also... I don't have any great pictures, but have a look here and here They have a web site here althought it isn't very good and also see here I'm very pleased with mine. One would I would say though is to consider the fact that you may want to go to 13" in the future or a buyer of your car might... anything that fits in a 13" wheel is plenty big enough to stop a 7. Phil Waters You mean you can drive these? I thought it was just there to polish 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted October 9, 2003 Author Share Posted October 9, 2003 Thanks Phil & Richard. Have made decision and ordered from RD. May be here tomorrow so I'll keep you posted and take pics. norman verona 1989 BDR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 Dino - bigger brakes also offer much more resistance to fade - most cars can brake hard enough to lock the fronts at high speed. the secret is being able to do it lap after lap after lap. other things that help are: tyres - more grip dampers - keep the tyre on the road better and it will give more grip feel - allows you to modulate to avoid lock-up springs/damper/antidive/cog - control the amount of weight transfer bias - both front and rear brakes should be near the point of locking up. if the bias is too far forward you're throwing away some braking. HOOPY R706KGU Hoopylight R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dino ferrana Posted October 9, 2003 Share Posted October 9, 2003 I was talking on the upgraded Caterham fronts where it is very rare to get fade. Sorry for any confusion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted October 13, 2003 Author Share Posted October 13, 2003 Got the Wilwood kit Friday morning. Fitted n/s/f disc to hub and refitted hub. Disc touching track rod end. Rang Rally Design, Andy apologised for not telling me you have to turn 3mm of hub. Turned 4mm off hub and refiited. Still touching. Took another 2mm off (6mm in all) and now had small clearance. Fitted calliper bracket and calliper. Disc dead centre of calliper and pads just "fell" in. One side done. Fit o/s/f and calliper NOT centre. Took 1.5mm off calliper bracket (to move calliper inwards) and now dead centre. Both sides done. Refit wheel - wheel just touching calliper. Over to halfords and get some wheel spacers. Wheel now not touching BUT wheel studs* only going on 2 threads. Temporary fix is to remove seating washers. Permanant fix is to drill out spacer (and glue to inside of wheel) so wheel studs go through spacer and are back to where they where. The old disc was (about) 10mm and the new are 21mm thick. A bit of messing about but have 11.5" vented, grooved & cross drilled discs, 4 pot callipers and polymatrix pads. Not yet fiited bios valve but pedal is fine and seems will not need larger bore m/cylinder. Do they work? tried repeated braking from 70-100 to 10-15 mph with no fade and disc still cool enough to touch (just). Thought we needed a road test so found an excuse to visit a customer in Aylesbury (300 mile round trip). Just got back and have to report that the pedal feel is fine, lots of progression, the harder you push the qiucker it stops. Feel far better than originals so I'm happy. * Fitted with 15" Revolution wheels which have "tubular" wheel nuts with shoulder washers that fit into recess in wheel. norman verona 1989 BDR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted October 13, 2003 Share Posted October 13, 2003 Lot of messing around, Norman, but I'm glad you've got 'em sorted...I think I'd have gone for the Caterham 'fit and forget' considering they fit 13" wheels and stop faster than a fast stopping thing. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiddy1 Posted October 13, 2003 Share Posted October 13, 2003 Norman glad you are pleased, and dont worry the caterham kit has the same problem of fouling the track rod end Mine cleared without any mods but I have known others which are bad, the hubs seem to have a poor tolerance on them Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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