jonhill Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 On my new SLR I have the option of having CR500s in place of ACB10s, but at a cost of £125. The justification for this is that the tyres are more expensive, and that the split rims come pre-fitted with ACBs, and so there's an effort involved in swapping them over. The question is, is it worth £125? I'm leaning towards the CRs as they appear to be a better all round tyre. I could swap after the first set of ACBs wear out, but wouldn't that involve new de-dion ears to give the correct camber setting for radial tyres as opposed to ACBs? Can people who have tried both tyres offer some advice? Thanks, Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 It depends on your prorities. ACB's are better in the dry but don't last as long as CR500's. They're obviously not as good in the wet. If you want an all round tyre for road use, track use and all weather use, go for the CR500's. If out and out dry grip is your thing, go for ACB's. Personally, if I could only have one, it would be CR500's BTW, won't the rim sizes be different anyway if you go for CR500's? The R500 uses narrower rims than an SLR. Alex Alex Wong www.alexwong.net _________ / / ___ _/______ /_ ___ / (_) (_)/ /`-'/o/ _______ o/`-'/ / /// ( VDU7X ) \/ / /___/--_________/--/___/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 ABC10's tramline badly on uneven surfaces due to thier crossply construction. CR500's dont, and you will probably not reach their limits on the public highway. Cr500's on the track however have a tendancy to overheat. They make a great wet tyre apparently. Arnie Webb The Fat Bloke blush.gif in a Slow Old Vauxhall wink.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 AFAIK the rim sizes are the same on the SLR and the R500. Will need to change front and rear camber (involving ears at the back). Although I am hoping to run slicks for trackdays on my R500 set up for CR500 radials. Did that make sense? The slicks basically require the same camber as ACB10s, ie not that set for the CR500s. Graham and some days I get even less lucid! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonhill Posted February 19, 2001 Author Share Posted February 19, 2001 I'll use the car for mainly track days, and since I've specified aero screen, no weather gear (obviously!), and have a trailer, I won't be driving in the rain too much. Based on this I thought ACB10 were the correct choice, but I've recently heard quite a few anecdotes along the lines that ACBs are lethal in the wet. You can't guarantee the weather at track days either (as those at Anglesey a couple of weekends ago will testify - I was due to be there too, until I decided to swap cars), and I've driven my 1.8SS on 021Rs around wet tracks before, and extrapolating what that might be like with another 50 bhp and 'pseudo slick' tyres, sounds like a recipe for an insurance claim. The alternative is two sets of wheels and tyres, but I think that is for the future (no money left sad.gif ), and still leaves the question of camber. Alex, ISTR you changing the dd-ears when you put the ACBs on, have you changed them back now you're on CR500s? On the subject of wheel sizes, the latest Caterham catalogue has the SLR on 8.5 x 13 and the R500 on 8.5J x 13. Is the "J" significant, or just a typo.? There must be quite a few CR500 shod R500s out there that have done track days in dry conditions, have any of these drivers experienced a problem with overheating? Sounds like a bit of a flaw considering the tyres' brief. Thanks, Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slipper man Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 I ran an SLR for 2,000 miles last summer, which included 4 track days, and a lot of road use. I bought the car 2nd hand from Caterham when I ordered my R500, and then traded it in when the new car was ready. I very nearly got them to swap the ACB10's, because they seemed such hard work, and CR500's seemed more user friendly. I didn't in the end and never regretted it. Early SLR's (and any car Alex Wong has - so he can keep up with slippermen) have soft compound tyres, but the later ones wear very well. After 2,000 miles, they had little visible wear. On track they were brilliant, and last much better than normal tyres. The only thing you need to be aware of is that when cold, they tramline horribly, but after a mile or two (i.e. before your engine oil has become warm anyway), they are fine. Even in heavy rain, I found them OK, but I do drive 7's slowly on wet public roads. Even if they were the same price, I'd probably keep the ACB10's myself, and certainly wouldn't pay extra for the CR500's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkey Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 My SLR had ACB10's on when I test drove it, and in my 7 virgin's hands it felt nasty - little grip, terrible tramlining and bump steer. it feels completely different on CR500s - plenty of grip (even in near freezing conditions), no tramlining. I've still got the ACB10s, so I may well get a spare set of wheels for track use. Or I may just be a tightarse and put them on when the CR500s have worn out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red SLR Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 I have got ACB 10s on my 1600 Superlight. They are great infact brilliant in the dry, but I must disagree with the tramline effect, I dont think they are that bad. If you are going near the track get the ACBs, but if you are just going for road use go for the CR500. X777CAT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 I should have written - some say the ACB10's tramline badly. On my car ( and perhaps other cars with widetrack ???)they are fine. I even rate them in the wet, though I've never used CR500s. The tramlining could also be reduced by getting spring rates, camber and castor angles correct- Loads of castor (4 washers as I run) certainly improves the self centering and feel of the car. I would say the Caterham A33 compound ACB10's (These are the ones Keiths on about) wear pretty well - I generally get around 2000 miles out of a set which includes lots of doughnuts!!! The A27 ACB10's grip much better, but wear very quickly on the track (1 or 2 track days only) Arnie Webb The Fat Bloke blush.gif in a Slow Old Vauxhall wink.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 I did swap rear ears for a while but I got bored of this, especially after I damaged a half shaft seal doing to change once. I've left it at 0.25 -ve which is the ACB setting. The logic behind this is that I run the CR500's in the wet when less camber is needed. The truth is I can't tell the difference from behind the wheel! smile.gif Alex Alex Wong www.alexwong.net _________ / / ___ _/______ /_ ___ / (_) (_)/ /`-'/o/ _______ o/`-'/ / /// ( VDU7X ) / / /___/--_________/--/___/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Six Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 Tyres are always a bugger. It's amazing the contradictory opinions on this thread alone!smile.gif Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Ranson Posted February 20, 2001 Share Posted February 20, 2001 ACB10s come in different sizes, 6x21 may be less sensitive to front suspension setup than 7x21, so 'tramlining' experiences may well vary. I certainly would be happy with a set of 6x21 ACB10 in any weather conditions and any power output. Perhaps the problem is that in most road cars the state of the road makes little or no difference to the way you drive, but in a Caterham you have to pay attention to the surface and must expect exploratory prods to lead to compensating swivels. Take the purist approach, put on the best tyres for the best conditions and learn to deal with the bad conditions. (I used to use a set of ACB10 as my 'wets' when I was hillclimbing my Caterham.) Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonwelton Posted February 20, 2001 Share Posted February 20, 2001 Can someone tell me typical prices for ACB's and good suppliers? Mine are showing a little wear after 1000 miles including an airfield day and an imminent house move and baby on the way mean economies may have to be made, hopefully not on tyres. Incidentally after being used to Michelin Pilots before, I have no hesitation in recommending ACB's. Obvioulsy you drive slower on wet public roads but on a damp airfield they were still superb! Si Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julians Posted February 20, 2001 Share Posted February 20, 2001 I will shortly be taking delivery of some 13" superlite wheels and ACB10's to go with them, can someone tell me what the recommended camber and castor settings should be for front and rear. Is it easy to change these settings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted February 20, 2001 Share Posted February 20, 2001 Accepted starting point is (I think) 0.25 -ve rear and 1.0 -ve front. My car runs 4 washers of castor. Alex Edited by - Alex Wong on 20 Feb 2001 12:02:47 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julians Posted February 20, 2001 Share Posted February 20, 2001 When you set your camber angles, do you need to actually measure the angle, or is it assumed that 1 washer = x degrees. If its the latter, how many washers = .25 and are they a specific type/size washer. Thanks Julian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted February 20, 2001 Share Posted February 20, 2001 Julian Camber is measured in degrees, castor in washers. Crazy i know. Alex, ahve you secretly been counting the washers on my car? last time I mentioned I ran 4 washers of castor I got lynched by the light steering brigade.... The 0.25 on the rear and 1.0 on the front are also what I run. I'm on 7x 21's on the front and 8 x 22's on the rear. I also found that increasing the offset on the wheels improves the directional stability..... Arnie Webb The Fat Bloke blush.gif in a Slow Old Vauxhall wink.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julians Posted February 20, 2001 Share Posted February 20, 2001 What sort of device do you use to measure camber then, or is adjustment only available in fixed amounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark.hall Posted February 20, 2001 Share Posted February 20, 2001 Er........a camber guage...........wink.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted February 20, 2001 Share Posted February 20, 2001 Julian, You are best leaving this to a pro as it all really needs to be done in combo with corner weights etc. Gary May (Juno Sportscars) is a good (and cheap) place to take your car - he advertises in LF. Arnie Webb The Fat Bloke blush.gif in a Slow Old Vauxhall wink.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Bees Posted February 20, 2001 Share Posted February 20, 2001 Beware that using the number of washers to 'measure' castor only works if the chassis are from the same era. The 96-onwards De Dion chassis has more castor per washer setting than the pre-96 chassis. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swiss_Tony Posted February 21, 2001 Share Posted February 21, 2001 Should camber and castor not be measured with a camber/castor gauge? Maybe this is a silly question! Does anyone know what the settings range from/to? James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StewartG Posted February 21, 2001 Share Posted February 21, 2001 Yes, but you have to find one that's calibrated in degrees and washers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swiss_Tony Posted February 21, 2001 Share Posted February 21, 2001 Mine is calibrated in tads! Imperial obviously! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Six Posted February 21, 2001 Share Posted February 21, 2001 And of course there are 12 smidgeons per tad... Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now