Pierre Gillet Posted February 17, 2001 Share Posted February 17, 2001 I have just finished replacing the bolts below the flare wings by aerospace anodised mushrom bolts( in red, my car is in pearlescent ruby). It improves quite a lot the look because, at first sight, one cannot really see the bolts anymore , and if one does insist, they look great. I wonder if the racing anodised ali nuts proposed by Compomotive can be used for the minilite wheels of the Seven.They have some in anodised red which look great and you can spare 400g in weight! Cheers, Pierre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Lewis Posted February 17, 2001 Share Posted February 17, 2001 Pierre, Where did you get the bolts from? - I was thinking of doing the same. Gareth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StewartG Posted February 17, 2001 Share Posted February 17, 2001 Try Nylon and Alloys in Ealing, West London Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Gillet Posted February 17, 2001 Author Share Posted February 17, 2001 Gareth, Demon Tweeks, Motorsport catalogue ( 2000) - page 257 : Mushroom head bolts M5 X 16, Part number FB516, 3 packs of 5 , @ 5.27 £ + VAT - page 258: Cap washers 12 and 13 mm head, Part number CW1, 1 pack of 6, @3.95 £+ VAT Good luck, Pierre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted February 17, 2001 Share Posted February 17, 2001 Or try BSR they are at www.bsr-aerotec.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted February 17, 2001 Share Posted February 17, 2001 Where can I get COmpomotive alloy wheel nuts?? If we need to machine the seat angle I can arrnage this en mass. This has to be a significant weight saving - 1.5 - 2 kilo's for the car, off the unsprung weight??? Arnie Webb The Fat Bloke blush.gif in a Slow Old Vauxhall wink.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMMO Posted February 17, 2001 Share Posted February 17, 2001 I've got titanium nuts! AMMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain chaos Posted February 17, 2001 Share Posted February 17, 2001 Do they spark in the dark when getting a bit of action? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS CLARK Posted February 18, 2001 Share Posted February 18, 2001 Arnie. Just keep going to the gym. Then you'll have saved a good few kilos on the unsprung weight front & be:- Arnie Webb The Less Fat Blokeblush.gifin a Slow Old Vauxhallwink.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Gillet Posted February 18, 2001 Author Share Posted February 18, 2001 Arnie, the 16 nuts of my Seven weigh 900g. Assuming that alloy nuts are 60% lighter, you may save half a kilo of unsprung weight! Not bad! I don't know where we can buy some . I assume by calling Compomotive.They must have a web site. The Compomotive racing nuts that I saw in the CCC ad are very attractive because they seem to be anodised in blue or red. Pas mal! Cheers, Pierre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted February 18, 2001 Share Posted February 18, 2001 Here we go.... http://www.comp.co.uk/products/nuts.htm Lets get together and do a bulk purchase - who else wants some???? I've made a pricing enquiry for 10, 20 and 50 sets - lets see what they come back with....... Arnie Webb The Fat Bloke blush.gif in a Slow Old Vauxhall wink.gif Edited by - fast arnie on 18 Feb 2001 20:32:53 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murph7355 Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 What colours do they do? Not keen on blue or red. Gold, silver or black would be ideal... I considered getting some Ti ones but believe these ones are even lighter still (AMMO, can you confirm? Where did you get yours from?). The other benefit would be not seeing them get that mottled rust effect, so I'd be interested... C7 AJM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick M Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 I think the ones Compomotive sell only come in blue and red - and I think they're matched to the thread size / seat angle, i.e. Ford, etc. ones with 60 degree seat and M10 thread are blue and the other options (Jap stuff ?) are in red. Could be wrong of course, but they list different car makes for each colour nut which suggests you don't get a choice if you have Ford, etc. thread / seat pattern - blue or nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick M Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 As an aside, and going back to the initial point of this thread, be a little cautious using anodised alloy bolts - they are not all "aerospace" grade alloy and cannot take high tension or shear loads as they snap very easily. Some are better than others but I'd really only use them in stress free, cosmetic applications. I'm sure everyone knows that so apologies for any egg-sucking lessons. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 OK I've spoken with them: They are 7000 grade aerospace alloy. The red and blue are ex stock, but the can anodise to order in other colours. They are only available in metric sizes so will only fit Didion Ford PCD cars. I have secured a price of £3 per nut plus VAT and shipping. Retail is £5.95 inc. Arnie Arnie Webb The Fat Bloke blush.gif in a Slow Old Vauxhall wink.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murph7355 Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 Presumably 7000 grade alloy is well up to the job in hand (can't believe they'd sell stuff that isn't for competition use!). How do we go about ordering Arnie? Do we just give them a call/drop them an email? C7 AJM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R2D2 Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 The 7000 Series of Aluminium Alloys is an entire family of alloys that have a wide range of properies depending on detailed chemical composition and heat treatment. The family breaks up into 7010, 7020, 7030,7040, 7050, 7075 and there are even further sub-divisions. There are several heat treament categoies from T0 to T7 but T6 is the most common temper that is commercially available. Even the heat treated alloys can vary in strength from a 7020T6 at 380MPa to 7075T6 at 570MPa. Obviously 50% is quite a strength range. The real problem is that the higher strength types of this series of alloys tend to have poor atmospheric and salt water corrosion properites. The anodising may help but again high strength versions of this alloy don't anodise very well. It is quite common in Motorsport that people talk about "Aerospace" material but we all need to be aware that you can buy Mild Steel certified for use in aircraft, it doesn't change the material only the inspection. I did send Compomotive an e-mail and asked them the maximum recommended torque for these nuts, which is really the point, but they never answered !!!! Hope they have good Public Liabilty Cover! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMMO Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 I don't really have titanium nuts. I am considering making some wheel nuts in 6AL4V Titanium. I have used both ali and ti fasteners on racing motorcycles before but only use aluminium fasteners in non-stressed areas. Titanium ones will not be as light as 7000 series aluminium but would be a lot stronger. Basically I'm really paranoid about safety and would rather pay the weight penalty. I'm sure Compomotive have done their homework. Maybe it's worth checking what kind of life the nuts have in time or mileage and if they are only for competition use or if they can be also used in high mileage road use. Also my car is a porky one not one of these stripped down road missiles so my requirement may be different. AMMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMMO Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 Chris, just read your posting. I was going to go into the 7000 series alloy and heat treatment thing but couldn't find my ali spec. sheets. You did a better job of it than I could of anyway. AMMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 Chris, They put them or rally cars and they are one form of 7020. Thats good enought for me. Regarding Ordering I suggest we create a list in this here posting. 4 column format as follows - as you add to the list please cut and paste this into your posting (i.e so the last posting contains everyones order) Then I'll get a bulk order made. Name: Qty: Colour: Email Address: Arnie Webb 20 Red arnie@the-webbs.com Arnie Webb The Fat Bloke blush.gif in a Slow Old Vauxhall wink.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Gillet Posted February 19, 2001 Author Share Posted February 19, 2001 Nick, For my flare wings, only the small bolts( M5) that are in rivnuts are alloy. The 2 main bolts ( 12MM heads I think) that are fitted to the chassis tubes remain the original steel ones on which I have fitted anodised ali caps matching the color of my car to keep them looking neat and less visible. So I think it should be OK. I shall check often though. Cheers, Pierre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R2D2 Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 I have used aluminium fastners in nearly all of the unstressed areas of my car without any problem. I worry more about wheel nuts though. I like the idea and the reduction in unsprung weight but I do worry about the potential problems. The 7020 alloy that Arnie tell us is used for these nuts is probably a good idea because it has good corrosion resistance compared to the stronger 7000 Series materials, which I think is vital on a road car. I guess that my concern is that how much of the ultimate tensile strength of the material is used to torque up the pre-load on the stud compared to the working stress in the stud/nut arrangement when driving. It's quite interesting to see the wheel stud failures on trucks (About 3% of total fleet according to the DOT). It is ususally the nearside rear that suffers the first stud failures and this is thought to be due to the combined effects of driving/braking torque combined with road camber effects causing a relatively high mean stress within the studs. It is normal to design a bolting arrangment so that the stud/bolt will fail befor the internal thread stips out and I can't see anyway of doing this with an aluminium wheel nut. Studs are commonly 8.8 Grade material with some competition studs being 10.9 or 12.9. The nut strength recommended for these studs is Grade 8, 12 and 12 (not a misprint). The Aluminium nut would be equivalent to a steel nut of grade 4, this is 50% of the usual strength. This could cause a problem of wheels working lose because of the nut yielding during a high working stress excursion and losing preload. Once the nut starts to work lose it will just keep getting worse. On a typical stsge rally car the wheels are changed virtually every stage and the wheel tightness checked very hour or so, much more than on road cars. I will try to find some "real" figures for the working stress developed in a stud and see what it all looks like from the stresses. Let me know how you get on in practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 The formatting of my message above got knackered by the server! If you want me to order you some nuts drop me an email and we'll order off lien. I anticipate ordering by the end of next week! Arnie Webb The Fat Bloke blush.gif in a Slow Old Vauxhall wink.gif Arnie Webb The Fat Bloke blush.gif in a Slow Old Vauxhall wink.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 Fast Arnie, sounds verry intresting if they are silver count me in for a set, they would look nice on my Panasport wheels (half way on the Atlantic by now)wink.gif thumbsup.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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