Replacing brake pipe flexibles

[pete east]

I bought myself a nice shiny set of brake flex pipes to replace the old big rubber ones currently on my car and since my car is 13 years old ive forgotten if there are any points I need to check when replacing the pipes/fluid etc, As usual any comments would be most welcome.

[Joe 90]

Go easy on the retaining nuts where the front hoses go through the alloy skins or you will damage the ali.

 

Starting all over at 40.

[Bilbo]

Hi Oliver

 

Well they are a pain to get at its the solid brake hoses you need to watch an assistant is a great help if not a must. I changed mine 2 weeks ago when I fitted Alcon big fronts from James Whiting.

 

When they were fitted originally the engine was out so it was easy an easy job. Changing them needs somebody on the outside to hold the flexible nut wiht you underneath undo the connector to the hard break line and the when you undo the nuts though the body. They DID come apart much easier than I thought they would.

 

'Can you hear me running' ......... OH YES and its music to my ears 😬 😬 😬

1988 200 bhp, 146 ft lbs, 1700cc Cosworth BD? engineered by Roger King, on Weber's with Brooklands and Clamshell wings, Freestyle Motorsport suspension.

[Nigel Riches]

Pete, possibly the most important thing in fitting new flex hoses is not to get them twisted, or fitted with with a preload.

 

To Install:

 

At the front start from the brake calipers, working back to the pipe union on the bodywork, be sure to turn the whole pipe length.

 

When the union at the caliper is secure, slacken the nut on the solid pipe in the engine bay, be sure to support the backing nut, (the one against the panel).

 

With the "through panel" union loose attach the flex pipe, again be sure not to apply any twisting, but at the same time set the pipe in such a way that it will not foul on any adjacent components when the suspension is at full up and down travel.

 

With the flex pipe secured to the "through panel" union tighten the backing nut of the "through panel" union to hold it firm against the body work, refit solid pipe to the union.

 

A similar procedure for the rear flex pipes, and then the bleeding process, you should have some good solid brakes after this, hope this has helped.

 

Regards Nigel.

 

1982. 5 speed, clamshells. B.R.G / Ali. The True Colours.

[Bilbo]

Hi Nigel and Pete

 

The front ones are susposed to have a twist in them ❗ Well my old ones did and the instruction for the new ones say the same. Not sure WHY think its just the length and to stop them dangling too low. However, this may not be true for the current ones from Caterham.

 

'Can you hear me running' ......... OH YES and its music to my ears 😬 😬 😬

1988 200 bhp, 146 ft lbs, 1700cc Cosworth BD? engineered by Roger King, on Weber's with Brooklands and Clamshell wings, Freestyle Motorsport suspension.

[pete east]

Thanks to you all for your valued advice - I was particularly concerned about twisting the alloy when trying to move the backing nut on the inboard end of the old flex pipes. I think I will give them a good dose of WD40 for several days before I tackle the job and hope that makes them easy to shift. When it comes to bleeding the brakes does one start at the wheel nearest the master cylinder and work outwards from there (which seems the logical method to me) or does one start from the rear calipers and work inwards,also are there any points to be watched for when working with Sierra rear brake units? again, any further advice would be welcome.

[Nigel Riches]

Pete, generally accepted wisdom when bleeding the brake system is to start at the caliper / cylinder FURTHEST from the master cylinder, and from what I can recall from threads on this forum, the Sierra rear calipers are a problem to get free of air, I have no experience of this, as my old dunger has a live axle, have fun, someone will probably help you out with the way to sort the rears, regards Nigel.

 

1982. 5 speed, clamshells. B.R.G / Ali. The True Colours.

[Old Septimus]

The twist is to stop the flexible rubbing on the inner wheel rim on full lock!

[McBreadhead]

Hi folks and resurrecting this thread as I'm about to fit new braided front brake hoses.
 

I've separated the old hose from the caliper end already with some loss of fluid which I've managed to stem. 
 

My question relates to removing the old hose from the union with the bodywork. The brake system is still currently charged so I wondered how you stop fluid ruining the panel paintwork as when I disconnect it, it will pour out. Is there a particular sequence I need to observe? And a neat way of plugging the brake line?

Thanks, McB

[7 wonders of the world]

Remove the reservoir cap and place cling film over and refit the cap, of use multiple twists of a elastic band by blocking the breather hole you prevent the fluid draining as you create partial vacuum - like your finger on the top of a pipette.

Or if your intending doing a fluid change use a syringe to empty the reservoir first and have a cloth to hand for the remaining drips as you remove the hoses, and the new hose ready to quickly swap over, any fluid on paintwork can be washed off with straight away with water.

[McBreadhead]

Thanks 7wow,

I was planning to replace fluid but was averse to draining entire system and refilling from empty to avoid the dreaded air pockets. I had thought to flush old fluid with new if I can by keeping the system full if that makes sense?

Yes I've considered using cling film over the reservoir cap but there's a plastic 'plunger' in there that pulls cling film down. I will check to see if I can get around this though and also investigate the rubber band trick. 

Thanks

[TomB]

I wouldn't want to risk brake fluid on the paint, so I'd drain it out, especially if you're planning fluid  replacement anyway.  An hour refilling the system a couple of  times if you have any problems has to be better than paint damage.  Another thing - if you drain the fluid, you may as well fully do the job and fit new braided hoses on the rear if your car still has solid line to the callipers.  Then you wont feel so bad about draining the fluid  

All that said, I rarely have any problems with air in the system using my easibleed - some people slate them, but Ive used one for years and not had any signficant problems.  I replaced the BMC over winter with a flull fluid change and as far as I can tell in the garage, I don't think I've got any bubbles of air in the system.    

 

[McBreadhead]

Update: I've replaced the front brakes and braided hoses using the Eazibleed which was much more straightforward than I imagined. Thanks for your tips. 
 

The only issue I encountered was excess fluid in the reservoir after I'd bled all the brakes so I syringed it out to reduce the level to max. In future would draining it by one of the caliper bleed screws be just as feasible?
 

Pedal seems good but off to the MOT on Tuesday so I'll know if it's all been worthwhile. 

[TomB]

That’s usual, the system does tend to put a bit much in. I either syringe out as you’ve suggested, or keep an eye on the level and bleed a bit extra out on the last corner when the easibleed has run out of fluid. 

[McBreadhead]

TomB