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Dry sump - bell housing vs. external


Alex Wong1697456877

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I think I've found a solution that costs 80 quid.

 

I bought a standard cylindrical tank from QED. On my chassis (97), between the two footwells, where the heater used to sit, above the gearbox is a perfect place for the tank. I've cut a circular hole into this area which the tank drops into. I'm going to get a flange welded onto the tank to screw it into the ally and make it look tidy and keep it about 4cm away from the gearbox. I just hope the pump can pump the oil to it (I'm assuming it will)

 

I don't think this works for all chassis' though.

 

Alex

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Alex, Be acareful to get the crasnkcase breathing right - remember the breather from the cam cover should not go to the top chamber in the tank. The top chamber in the tank should have a hose to the catch tank. The scav rtn should go to the same chamber as the breather from the cam cover.

 

Do this and you'll never have to empty your catch tank again......

 

Whatever you do, do not run it sealed - you'll airiate the oil.

 

 

 

Arnie Webb

The Fat Bloke blush.gif in a not so Slow Vauxhall wink.gif

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Arnie,

 

I've plumbed the breather from the tank and from the cam cover independantly to one catch bottle. Not quite what you describe, but that should be ok shouldn't it? My tank only has 3 attachments - the breather, oil in and oil out. At least this way, it shouldn't aerate the oil.

 

Alex

 

 

 

Edited by - Alex Wong on 20 Mar 2001 00:45:42

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Alex,

 

 

 

If you have the large breather pipe between the block and head (below exhaust port 4)you'll probably be OK.

 

 

If this has been blanked (I assume you also therefore removed the tin plate inside the cam cover) the crank breathes at high velocity into the cam chambers and out into the catch tank. Regretably this takes the oil with it at high rpm.

 

Sorry!

 

Worst case you need add another breather inlet into the tank.

 

 

 

 

 

Arnie Webb

The Fat Bloke blush.gif in a not so Slow Vauxhall wink.gif

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I second the fact that no one complained of cooked feet in my dry sumped RK XF.

The tank was bolted to the pass foot well.

 

If / when I upgrade to a dry sump I would go for the stepped one. Sounds like a smart compromise. It is the height of oil needed not necessarily a round pot.

 

/Steve

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Arnie, why would running the engine sealed cause the oil to become airated more easily ??

 

I'm curious as I'd pretty much decided to go down this route, largely because it makes the plumbing neater, i.e. less breather hoses to contend with.

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Nick, Sealed is a risk because the system can then pressurise on the tank side of the pump.

 

Alex, Correct. Conceptually the outlet to the catch tank should have a baffle between it and the main chamber, and the breather shoudl eb into the main chamber. If the main chamber is split into two sections to reduce "sloshing" this is no problem.

 

 

 

Arnie Webb

The Fat Bloke blush.gif in a not so Slow Vauxhall wink.gif

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OK, so by that do you mean that the scavenge pump returns oil to the tank under pressure (pressurising the tank) and the feed pump is then having to do less work dragging oil out of the tank, with the result that the oil ends up being airated because it hasn't had enough time to settle ??

 

The dry sump tank I have does have a breather (which goes to the catch tank) but there won't be any on the engine.

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Thats right Mike , and if you take the cam cover oil filler cap off imediatly after running the K series you will hear a hissing sound as the vacuum is lost .

 

What about the possibility of running an in line remote oil swirl pot prior to return to the K bell housing to overcome possibele airation and to avoid shelling out loads £££ on original caterham kit , maybe something like the 1 litre tank in Demon Theives mag ???

 

Dave

 

 

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