V7 SLR Posted August 16, 2003 Author Share Posted August 16, 2003 minister told me the engine performances starts to deteriorate before the fan kicks in anywayWhich is crap by the way... It totally depends upon what temperature your fan kicks in. As mine is determined by the settings in my ECU I have ensured that my engine performance won't deteriorate by then. Also, I still have a problem with triple pass radiators. Simply put, why add a restriction into the coolant system when a 4-core single-pass radiator will do the same job (better even) without restricting coolant flow? As you report high temps still, what thermostat are you using? Sounds like you ought to be using a mid 70's one. Mine's a 76 degree jobbie. When my temperature started rising when my fan failed, I switched off before it hit 90 degrees. I'm of the opinion that if you hit 100 you risk HGF (head gasket failure). Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted August 17, 2003 Share Posted August 17, 2003 the thermostat measures the temperature at a different place to the temperature gauge. so the gauge isn't really measuring anythying very useful.. HOOPY R706KGU Hoopylight R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted August 17, 2003 Author Share Posted August 17, 2003 Actually the gauge is measuring the coolant as it leaves the head. Probably the best indication of how hot the engine is IMO. Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted August 17, 2003 Share Posted August 17, 2003 but the thermostat is working on coolant about to come into the engine. so its no wonder the gauge sees the coolant as much hotter. we really need the thermostat on the out side of the engine like the QED solution. HOOPY R706KGU Hoopylight R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted August 17, 2003 Author Share Posted August 17, 2003 By the time my fan kicks in, at 82 degrees, the coolant in the radiator is probably no more than 5 degrees cooler. The advantages of the thermostat being in a different place to the temp sender have yet to be proven to me given that we have a very compromised cooling system. Once I get around to using the EWP I'll be able to iron out all of those compromises. Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted August 17, 2003 Share Posted August 17, 2003 almost none of that made any sense to me.... *confused* the thermostat is certainly in a silly place at the moment what comprimises 🤔 how do you know what the rad temp is 🤔 why will and EWP help 🤔 HOOPY R706KGU Hoopylight R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted August 17, 2003 Author Share Posted August 17, 2003 Have faith my questioning young friend. All will become clear when I find some spare cash. Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 let me know if you find any - my cash reserves, ermm, uh, aren't at the moment ☹️ ☹️ HOOPY R706KGU Hoopylight R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Back in the laminova and rad efficiency debate... ...I believe my ex-academy car has a CC ali 'small race' rad. I'm still running the CC water temp gauge, but have the SPA oil/oil as you know. The WT never seems to budge appreciably from '80ish' - even after a hard blat that will put the OT upto 95 degrees. I'm wondering if the rad has enough excess capacity to cope with a laminova - or even if it will make any sense to fit one. Regds. Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted August 18, 2003 Author Share Posted August 18, 2003 Remind me next month. I'll go through the options for fitting and what the advantages are of each. There's quite a few options, each with pros and cons. Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted August 18, 2003 Author Share Posted August 18, 2003 Alternatively, pop over to my place one evening or see you at Curborough on Sunday? Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordy Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Just back from a week in Normandy and had a very stressful week watching the temp gauge like a hawk with no blatting fun to be had at all. Story is - 1.4KSS, new coolant, new sender to gauge, new 88° thermostat, standard rad (now covered in dead stuff), manual fan override on dash left permanently on throughout trip. Over the last few weeks gauge has read around 92° which I found reasonable, the blat to Normandy held this temp nice and steady. A few days into the trip and it was knocking on the 100° door consistently in all conditions. Everything seems to be fine so I was thinking it was just down to the especially hot conditions in France. But I've blatted it back home since in cooler conditions and it is still reaching 100°. Have bled system to double check no air but all was OK, will check accuracy of sender and guage too but I'm thinking its the thermostat not opening properly or the rad is just not cooling efficiently anymore. Any ideas, I dare not blat it as I've only just fitted a newish engine that I'd rather not go pop?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark H Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Have any of you guys tried "waterwetter" a REDLINE product. I have used it in a 996 GT3 to very good effect, it lowered the water temp by almost 11 degrees . just a thought, Marc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted August 18, 2003 Author Share Posted August 18, 2003 Quite a few of the Italy crew tried water wetter for the first time and found it to be useless. Perhaps we already have good cooling systems which left the water wetter nothing to improve upon..?? Dunno, but it dain't werk.. Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 V7, Yep, I'll be at Curborough - marshalling again 😳 Could still pop over and nab a resistor though for that blue LED though... Regds, Myles Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted August 18, 2003 Author Share Posted August 18, 2003 Myles, pop over anytime you like. I'm at home all evenings this week I think (decorating - urgh). Give me a call first, just in case I get an offer I can't refuse (never have but you never know). Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Fordy, I used to get something like that in the Locust. I have also seen it in a Westfield with an alu radiator. Temps normal in traffic and at moderate speeds. At higher speeds the temps went up to 100-110 ish with no explanation. In both cases baffling the radiator to the nosecone sorted it out. If in doubt use foam tanktape card or anything to hand to lash up an effective seal between the edges of the rad and the inside of the nosecone. I used 18swg alu rivetted/glued to the rad frame and edged with car door seal to seal the gap. All the air going in the front has to go through the rad and cannot go around it. More air going through>greater heat transfer>car stays cooler. The biggest rad in the world won't be any good if the air isn't going through to take the heat away. So far the Cat doesn't seem to have needed this treatment. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 i had water wetter, laminova, pace dry sump, triple pass rad, BIG fan and 190 bhp. water never went above 90 (on the cr4ppy caterham gauge). oil temp got 90 a few times - but its hard work for it blatting flat out up mountains in 35 C heat! HOOPY R706KGU Hoopylight R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulo Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 I’d like to add a few thoughts of my own; This summer has been exceptionally hot, so cooling issues have become more apparent. If cooler air from the ‘outside’ is used to cool the engine by passing through the radiator surely it would help if this was somehow ducted out of the engine bay. A laminova oil cooler seems a great idea for ‘traditional’ British weather, faster warm up and a radiator that can cope due to lower ambient temperatures however for higher temperatures as we’ve seen this summer maybe a separate oil cooler is a better solution. Where you put it is another story! Would an all black engine compartment (sides and underside of bonnet) help evacuate heat? With the way the weather’s going maybe it’s a one off problem and next spring we’ll see postings giving tips on how to fit heated seats and steering wheels or Antifreeze for -50°C. Or what to do when meeting a Woolly Mammoth on the wrong side of the road. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 Paulo - an oil cooler is a radiator to lose oil heat. A laminova connects (thermally) the oil and water systems so you've got the same thing without the packaging problems and without you needing another radiator, thermostat etc. IFF the water radiator is big enbough to cope with the heat generated by the engine, then the laminova setup ensures that wherever the heat ends up (water or oil) it gets dumped out at the same place. also thermal gradients are minimised and oil warm up time reduced. I'm fairly convinced that the problems are due to the thermostat looking at the coolant BEFORE it enters the engine and the gauges and ECU fan switches looking at the temperature AFTER it leaves the engine. The rad fan switches look at it as its in the radiator. These are all at different places looking at different things in a different way. Its pretty much impossible to draw much of a conclusion without more data. I also thing that a thermostat on the EXIT of the engine is more sensible. HOOPY R706KGU Hoopylight R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulo Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 Hoopy, My point about the laminova was that the radiator (water) has to loose heat from both the oil and water, if it's very hot maybe this is asking too much from one poor little radiator. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 but with the laminova you fit a big radiator. The alternative is a smaller water rad and an oil cooler in the bit of space you've made - thats far more complex in terms of plumbing etc and no better. HOOPY R706KGU Hoopylight R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 Oh, Perhaps I should point out that I've got a 'short undertray' fitted - this might help explain why my WT doesn't get excited. Basically, it's just an ali plate that extends from the back edge of the nose - all the way to just in front of the sump - there is therefore no way out for the air except through the rad or in very close proximity around the edges. Might be worth trying for some of you... Regds, Myles Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7 SLR Posted August 19, 2003 Author Share Posted August 19, 2003 The new nose cone I have ordered through Mr Dog has a flatter underside apparently. I will wait until I take delivery of said item and them may panel the underside of the front or even the whole of the engine bay. To do so will afford the addition of air scoops at various places to control air flow. For example, a cool supply to the starter motor is a possibility. Worcs L7 club joint AO.//Membership No. 4379//Azure Blue SLR No. 0077//Se7ens List Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 Myles, any pics of the undertray? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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