Leadership Team Mcalvert Posted July 31, 2003 Leadership Team Share Posted July 31, 2003 Hopefully a simple question: Does Cooltek Exhaust Lagging need spraying afterwards? I have heard contradictory things about this. If it does need spraying, what do I need to ask for, and is it easily available at motor factors? Thanks! Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Posted July 31, 2003 Share Posted July 31, 2003 no Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMMO Posted July 31, 2003 Share Posted July 31, 2003 Yes I don't actually know. Just being contradictory. AMMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Mcalvert Posted July 31, 2003 Author Leadership Team Share Posted July 31, 2003 Sinple answer to a simple question One more then, is it better applied dry or wet? Thanks Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tight fart Posted July 31, 2003 Share Posted July 31, 2003 Wet SLR for sale (www.ashort.com) T.F@O.F. www.griptv.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted July 31, 2003 Share Posted July 31, 2003 Dry No actually it's wet but I was just being contradictory as well 😬 Brent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tight fart Posted July 31, 2003 Share Posted July 31, 2003 No you weren't, you were starting an arguement ! SLR for sale (www.ashort.com) T.F@O.F. www.griptv.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMMO Posted July 31, 2003 Share Posted July 31, 2003 No he wasn't. AMMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted July 31, 2003 Leadership Team Share Posted July 31, 2003 Yes he was .... Apply wet, wear gloves. No need to spray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted July 31, 2003 Share Posted July 31, 2003 Is this the 5 minute argument or the full half hour? Brent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Posted July 31, 2003 Share Posted July 31, 2003 need spraying afterwards as in painting this is a no and why wet it after the job is done this is a no Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Mcalvert Posted July 31, 2003 Author Leadership Team Share Posted July 31, 2003 So, that's 1 x No 1 x Yes 1 x wet 1 x dry. I'll take my pick So, it'll simply go on dry and not need painting/sealing/spraying or anything else afterwards. Simple Thanks All - Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted July 31, 2003 Share Posted July 31, 2003 All joking aside Michael, I think most people prefer to soak it first not least because it keeps the irritant dust fibres down. But make sure you do it with gloves or you will be, cue song, "itching like a hound". Brent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted July 31, 2003 Leadership Team Share Posted July 31, 2003 The instructions that come with it say wet it I seem to recall you soak it for a minute - certainly the water was clouded with something during soaking and that something is probably due to an additive to aid bonding or stability, not sure what. Where mine has become damaged with subsequent removal of the manifold etc etc it has not become unravelled, despite some healthy chunk missing. Some 7s I have seen have wrapped manifolds that look more like Nora Batty's tights - no such problem if you do it wet. Worth buying the 1" width as opposed to 2" - neater job, whch again will lead to longevity of the wrapping. Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Mcalvert Posted August 1, 2003 Author Leadership Team Share Posted August 1, 2003 Instructions LUXURY! Mine cae without any, so thanks for your input! Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Howe Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 Apply damp... not wet, but damp i.e. enough moisture to make it managable. Retain both ends with Jubilee clips - don't buy the special s/steel clamps they sell. They are no bl**dy good and they cut your fingers to hell. When dry, spray with heat resistant paint, untill the can runs out. The lagging will last years but does not take to surface friction, so don't drag it into position but place with care. The spray paint helps to protect its rather soft exterior. Make sure your first trip is not to the supermarket... as, at first, it smokes just a bit. You can feel very silly, sitting at the traffic lights, with clouds of smoke creeping out of the bonnet vents. Well worth doing as it helps to keep engine bay temperature down. JH Deliveries by Saffron, the yellow 222bhp Sausage delivery machine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMMO Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 Seeing that this is Tech Talk I thought of making a sensible contribution for a change. If you use exhaust lagging on your headrers the front of your silencer will get much hotter. The advantage of lagging is lower under-bonnet temperatures and more comfort in the car for the passenger. I can see the attraction. The downside is that you will probably need to re-pack your silencer more often. If the silencer is left with little packing in it can fail. This applies more to racing type carbon and to a lesser extent the titanium ones as well. If your titanium silencer has gone blue at the front (not had it happen to a Raceco can yet) you have left it a bit late. If your silencer has a self adhesive sticker and it starts to curl up at the edges it's time to have a look inside. I recommend you weigh your silencer, I use a fishing scale that I hook into the mounting bracket. If you make a note of how much it weighs when correctly packed you can weigh it again if it starts to get noisy. A five minute job. If it is lighter you know it will need re-packing and how much packing to use. End of Ammo's Friday Tech Tip. AMMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Mcalvert Posted August 1, 2003 Author Leadership Team Share Posted August 1, 2003 Well- I did say that that there were conflicting views on this one. I've now had - Apply Dry Apply Wet Apply Damp Spray Don't Spray!!! I think I'll just content myself with the fact that there are different ways of doing this job and hope it goes smoothly however I do it! I think I'll try to apply it damp (because that makes sense) and probably not spray it, because I don;t have any spray Thanks all for your input - Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 Ammo, What about lagging the headers to the point that they exit the body work. Here you get the advantage of lower underbonnet temps, but have at least 5cm of the headers left before they go to the collectory/silencer and hence have quite a bit of exposed metal to allow for cooling. In this case do you think silencer temp is still an issue? Just interested Greg, Q 86 NTM (Green 185BHP XF) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMMO Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 Greg It must be worth a try. The lagging wouldn't be very nice looking outside the bodywork anyway. The problem of the packing burning only really happens with continous high speed use. The current packing material I use can withstand approx. 600 degrees C. There is a 800/900 degree C. packing material but it is three times the price. Just wanted people with lagged headers to know that there is a potential problem which they should keep an eye on. AMMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonkey eyed barmaid Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 perfect thread, and great timing... I have been having thoughts about lagging my exhaust headers as well. went to tweeks last weekend and selected aforementioned CoolTec wrap (among other things ) only to be dissuaded by the guy at the counter who told me it was probably not suitable for what I had in mind. ☹️ I had the 15foot roll of 2inch wide wrap. I only want to wrap the 4 header pipes on a 1600vx classic, from where they exit the head, until they reach the hole in the sideskin. about 18inches per pipe? he said 15 foot roll was not enough, and I would need more like 40foot...! anyone shed any light on the amount of wrap needed to do a sufficient job on said manifold please? (was working on idea of 1/2 overlap) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg Posted August 2, 2003 Share Posted August 2, 2003 Thanks Ammo, I've (well John Howe did as he is the expert) already lagged the exhaust, but we ran out of wrap so I'm going to get some more and cover the existing stuff upto the bobywork exit. granteuk, You'll need (roughly) an equivalent to 50ft x 1". Best to buy a bit over as it is pain if it is too short .... Also mark your headers as to where you want it to end whilst still on the car, so that you know where you are when they are off. Watching John you need to wrap dry, and then paint and leave to dry for 1/2hr and then go for a blat and do not be concerned by the smoke as it cures. Greg, Q 86 NTM (Green 185BHP XF) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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